'94 3.0 Coolant Leak
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'94 3.0 Coolant Leak
'94 3.0, 115K, I can "almost" pinpoint a coolant leak. I'm finding it at the back of the timing cover on the R side (psger). It's just above a bolt that I think goes through to a water jacket. This is also an area where the timing cover sits just a hair below the cyl head, so I'm fearing a bad head gasket. I just can't quite see the point of origin looking through the R wheelwell. Any input as to maybe a cracked timing cover or bad head gasket or timing gasket as I decide how far to tear it down? Intake manifold and all hoses are dry.
Thanks,
JP
Thanks,
JP
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 5,720
Likes: 5
From: Washington state
many auto parts stores load or rent coolant system pressure testers, have a pump and pressure gauge.
pressurize the system and light it up well with lights.
you may be able to get a better look, may turn into a squirter.
any champagne bubbles in radiator fill neck coolant with engine hot and running at 2k rpm?
any coolant in the oil? creamy and foamy? coolant lose?
several of the water pump bolts on the 3L go thru the front timing cover plate housing which serves at the water pump back seal. common area for leaks.
have you tried tightening the bolts with a torque wrench. use a torque W only. one broken off bolt in a difficult to access location will convince anyone they are a mandatory investment to work on a rig.
when was water pump replaced last?
pressurize the system and light it up well with lights.
you may be able to get a better look, may turn into a squirter.
any champagne bubbles in radiator fill neck coolant with engine hot and running at 2k rpm?
any coolant in the oil? creamy and foamy? coolant lose?
several of the water pump bolts on the 3L go thru the front timing cover plate housing which serves at the water pump back seal. common area for leaks.
have you tried tightening the bolts with a torque wrench. use a torque W only. one broken off bolt in a difficult to access location will convince anyone they are a mandatory investment to work on a rig.
when was water pump replaced last?
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Pump is brand new, 0 miles. I replaced it without properly diagnosing the leak. I'm sure now it's not the problem. The timing cover is the first place I see fluid, high up and behind the pump. I sealed all the "thru" bolts on the threads, and it sat 24 hours before I refilled with coolant. I have a good visual of those bolts and they are dry.
I like the idea to pressurize it. I did run it up to temp to find the leak though...it's the same slow dribble at temp or stone cold. I didn't notice bubbles in the rad. Oil is clean, looks right. Previously I was not loosing any coolant, and exhaust smells normal, so I don't heavily suspect a head gasket...hoping it's the timing cover...I should tear into it again tomorrow.
Thanks!
I like the idea to pressurize it. I did run it up to temp to find the leak though...it's the same slow dribble at temp or stone cold. I didn't notice bubbles in the rad. Oil is clean, looks right. Previously I was not loosing any coolant, and exhaust smells normal, so I don't heavily suspect a head gasket...hoping it's the timing cover...I should tear into it again tomorrow.
Thanks!
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 7,015
Likes: 208
From: SoCal
If it's high up, it could be the intake manifold gasket. It was one of the places where mine was leaking; right at the front right corner, and slowly dribbling down. One of the advantages of a pump-up pressure tester is that you will not have the engine noise to deal with when looking for the leak, so you can some times hear it squirting out. The upper leaks will usually leak air out once the coolant level falls a little.
I made my own pressuriser by fitting a Presta tire valve into a garden hose cap, and screwing that onto the T-fitting of a Prestone flush kit installed into a heater line. This also tests the radiator cap for proper pressure relief.
I made my own pressuriser by fitting a Presta tire valve into a garden hose cap, and screwing that onto the T-fitting of a Prestone flush kit installed into a heater line. This also tests the radiator cap for proper pressure relief.
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It went from using 0 to losing 3/4 gallon every 20 minutes or so. I know because I stocked up on water to get 'er home.
Looks like it is the timing cover gasket gone bad, I'm tearing it down now.
Looks like it is the timing cover gasket gone bad, I'm tearing it down now.
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 7,015
Likes: 208
From: SoCal
I had a leak on the timing cover as well. One of the lower right bolts serves as an anchor for a metal tab that stabilizes the cable for the crank shaft position sensor. That tab unfortunately also serves as a big lever arm that can loosen the bolt if it ever gets bumped. When the bolt loosens, it can allow the gasket to fail, since there is less clamping force on it. So you need to make sure that this bolt is tightened properly, with that little metal tang, when you assemble it.
I hope you got past this without incident, but if you remove the water pump first, you can drain most of the engine coolant from there without getting any of it into the oil pan. This means replacing the WP gasket, which probably won't hurt.
I hope you got past this without incident, but if you remove the water pump first, you can drain most of the engine coolant from there without getting any of it into the oil pan. This means replacing the WP gasket, which probably won't hurt.
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