Starter Motor Problem
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
Starter Motor Problem
Hello All,
I have an issue with my '70 F-250 360c.i. The starter motor will only turn over fast enough to start the truck when it is cold or just cool. The problem happens after it has been driven even a short while. It won't crank over fast enough. It sounds like a weak battery, but the battery isn't weak since I've tried two fully charged batteries, one of which is new with 840 c.c.a. After about 30 min. or so, it will turn over fast enough for it to start. And to add a twist, jump starting helped (reason for the new battery of the two).
I am wondering if the starter motor gets too hot. There is an exhaust manifold leak from a broken bolt, but it is one of the upper bolts. The starter does fell VERY warm. I was also wondering if it is a vapor lock. I dunno, I'm stumped! Any insight would be very much appreciated.
Have A Great Holiday!
Bryant
I have an issue with my '70 F-250 360c.i. The starter motor will only turn over fast enough to start the truck when it is cold or just cool. The problem happens after it has been driven even a short while. It won't crank over fast enough. It sounds like a weak battery, but the battery isn't weak since I've tried two fully charged batteries, one of which is new with 840 c.c.a. After about 30 min. or so, it will turn over fast enough for it to start. And to add a twist, jump starting helped (reason for the new battery of the two).
I am wondering if the starter motor gets too hot. There is an exhaust manifold leak from a broken bolt, but it is one of the upper bolts. The starter does fell VERY warm. I was also wondering if it is a vapor lock. I dunno, I'm stumped! Any insight would be very much appreciated.
Have A Great Holiday!
Bryant
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 24,552
Likes: 74
From: Creedmoor, North Carolina
Bryant, I suspect your cables are corroded and need replacing. The corrosion can get past the ends inside of the jacket and the volts can't get past.
Second thing check all connections for good clean and tight fit.
Thirdly, Have you recently replaced the intake with an aluminum one, and don't have a 1" phenolic spacer under the carb?
John
Second thing check all connections for good clean and tight fit.
Thirdly, Have you recently replaced the intake with an aluminum one, and don't have a 1" phenolic spacer under the carb?
John
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
Likes: 783
From: Simi Valley, CA
Hello All,
I have an issue with my '70 F-250 360c.i. The starter motor will only turn over fast enough to start the truck when it is cold or just cool. The problem happens after it has been driven even a short while. It won't crank over fast enough. It sounds like a weak battery, but the battery isn't weak since I've tried two fully charged batteries, one of which is new with 840 c.c.a. After about 30 min. or so, it will turn over fast enough for it to start. And to add a twist, jump starting helped (reason for the new battery of the two).
I am wondering if the starter motor gets too hot. There is an exhaust manifold leak from a broken bolt, but it is one of the upper bolts. The starter does fell VERY warm. I was also wondering if it is a vapor lock. I dunno, I'm stumped! Any insight would be very much appreciated.
Bryant
I have an issue with my '70 F-250 360c.i. The starter motor will only turn over fast enough to start the truck when it is cold or just cool. The problem happens after it has been driven even a short while. It won't crank over fast enough. It sounds like a weak battery, but the battery isn't weak since I've tried two fully charged batteries, one of which is new with 840 c.c.a. After about 30 min. or so, it will turn over fast enough for it to start. And to add a twist, jump starting helped (reason for the new battery of the two).
I am wondering if the starter motor gets too hot. There is an exhaust manifold leak from a broken bolt, but it is one of the upper bolts. The starter does fell VERY warm. I was also wondering if it is a vapor lock. I dunno, I'm stumped! Any insight would be very much appreciated.
Bryant
If what John says to try doesn't solve the problem, here's another possibility.
The starter is "dragging" when the engine is warm, This is usually caused by a burnt armature.
Replace the starter.
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 920
Likes: 0
From: Westminster, Colorado
The Starter on 360's and 390's can have a tendency to get cooked...especially if you have headers...but I suspect your "bolt leak" is where the heat is coming from....
Replace the starter, but when you buy the new one, order a "racing blanket" to cover it with....which is a long strip of fabric that is shiny on one or both sides and has a velcro closure....you just wrap it around the starter and stick it together.
Another thing that can kill the starter is oil leaking from the valve cover (or elsewhere) and getting in the starter...."bogging it down" with oil.....
I have not had any starter problems since I used the blanket.
Replace the starter, but when you buy the new one, order a "racing blanket" to cover it with....which is a long strip of fabric that is shiny on one or both sides and has a velcro closure....you just wrap it around the starter and stick it together.
Another thing that can kill the starter is oil leaking from the valve cover (or elsewhere) and getting in the starter...."bogging it down" with oil.....
I have not had any starter problems since I used the blanket.
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
Thanks for the info guys! This was exactly what I was looking for.
I really didn't believe that it was a vapor lock. I do have the original setup on the truck. Since I live in CA, I just bypassed the heater hose going to the carb spacer. All of my cables are fairly new and clean. There is no oil leak at this time in the area of the valve covers.
This was my Dad's truck and I can't rember when he last replaced the starter. I felt that it was the starter, but I have been wrong many times before. When I change it I will wrap the new one.
Thanks Again!
Bryant
I really didn't believe that it was a vapor lock. I do have the original setup on the truck. Since I live in CA, I just bypassed the heater hose going to the carb spacer. All of my cables are fairly new and clean. There is no oil leak at this time in the area of the valve covers.
This was my Dad's truck and I can't rember when he last replaced the starter. I felt that it was the starter, but I have been wrong many times before. When I change it I will wrap the new one.
Thanks Again!
Bryant
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 24,552
Likes: 74
From: Creedmoor, North Carolina
Bryant, Don't know the left coast but on the right you can starters and alts. to your favorite parts house and they will test them for you.
I am a big believer in testing the things that don't cost you money first. I hate spending $70.00 and 3 hours to find out it was for not.
John
I am a big believer in testing the things that don't cost you money first. I hate spending $70.00 and 3 hours to find out it was for not.
John
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 4,375
Likes: 5
From: seattle
another thing it possibly could be is the brushes are worn out...Ive had the exact same thing happen to me on other rigs Ive had...brushes are by far the cheapest fix for many a starter problem...the brushes are located just behind the metal band at the end of the starter...have a look in there and you may also have to take the end cover plate off to look at them if you cant see well enough to see whats left of the brushes...original brushes are about 3/8" tall as installed...and there are 4 individual brushes per starter...
If they do need to be replaced...they are about 10 bucks max at any parts house...
- cs65
If they do need to be replaced...they are about 10 bucks max at any parts house...
- cs65
Trending Topics
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
Likes: 783
From: Simi Valley, CA
another thing it possibly could be is the brushes are worn out...Ive had the exact same thing happen to me on other rigs Ive had...brushes are by far the cheapest fix for many a starter problem...the brushes are located just behind the metal band at the end of the starter...have a look in there and you may also have to take the end cover plate off to look at them if you cant see well enough to see whats left of the brushes...original brushes are about 3/8" tall as installed...and there are 4 individual brushes per starter.- cs65
Fits all the cars, all of the light trucks (F100/350, Econoline, Bronco) from 1960 thru 1979.
Starters, like ignition modules can be difficult to test off the vehicles to see if they are any good...or not.
These parts usually fail when they overheat, how does that work at an autoparts store?
These parts are colder than a trollops heart when tested this way.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
2027 Super Duty Carhartt Package First Look: 12 Things You NEED to Know!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Most Surprising 2026 Ford Truck Features!
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 Ford Trucks Coming to Mecum Indy 2026
Brett Foote
5 Best / 5 Worst Ford Truck Wheels of All Time
Joe Kucinski
Ford Super Duty: 5 Things Owners LOVE, 5 Things They LOATHE!
Joe Kucinski
Every 2026 Ford Truck Engine RANKED from WORST to FIRST!
Michael S. Palmer
The Best F-150 Deal of Every Trim Level (XL through Raptor)
Joe Kucinski
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 24,552
Likes: 74
From: Creedmoor, North Carolina
Originally Posted by NumberDummy
These parts usually fail when they overheat, how does that work at an autoparts store?
You don't think so????
John
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 4,375
Likes: 5
From: seattle
Did you have to turn yours in for a core ??? If so and havent yet, pop the end off of it and look at the brushes just for kicks...if they are worn down I would get another set, swap them out and see if it works..if so...reswap the starter and take the new rebuild back...9 times out of 10 all the rebuilders do is change brushes and bearings and send them back out after cleaning them...Ive seen how the rebuilders work that supply the chain stores...
- cs65
- cs65
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 3,956
Likes: 0
From: Cornfield in Nebr.
Camperspecial, what do you do when the copper points are burned out that kick the drive out or burn the solder out of the armature??or the paper that wraps the fields gets burnt ?we put new drives in ours,lol and new caps and bands with new gaskets, you must buy from some shady chain stores
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 4,375
Likes: 5
From: seattle
No...nowadays when ever I need parts for my Fords I buy NOS or dealer parts whenever possible...as for my past experiences, what I saw was years ago...Ive also got a few years in wrecking yards...its ctually where I bought my first car...the first car I could buy on my own that is when I came of age...
Either way, when it comes to starters and alternators the main wear parts are the brushes,bearings/bushings...If a core has been in a fire or some other kind of melt down thats obviously more etensive to repair properly...
Last alt I got was for my 91 Ranger...sucker didnt get a day before it started howling louder then a pack of hyenias...which just proves my point yet again...and when the parts are replaced by the rebuilders you can bet the bearings most likely arent US made...I could be wrong though...
- cs65
Either way, when it comes to starters and alternators the main wear parts are the brushes,bearings/bushings...If a core has been in a fire or some other kind of melt down thats obviously more etensive to repair properly...
Last alt I got was for my 91 Ranger...sucker didnt get a day before it started howling louder then a pack of hyenias...which just proves my point yet again...and when the parts are replaced by the rebuilders you can bet the bearings most likely arent US made...I could be wrong though...
- cs65
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
The starter that I got was a rebuilt Autolite with a lifetime warranty for $49. I guess I could have taken it apart myself, but there is no guarantee that my rebuild will last longer. It was worth it to me to just be done with it. It works great and turns much faster than my previous.
Bryant
Bryant