HELP, powerstroke not right
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Joined: Jul 2006
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HELP, powerstroke not right
Hey guys, I am in need of some help. I've got a 2001 Powerstroke 7.3L diesel crew cab automatic transmission with a jody chip (40 tow, 80 econ, 120 race) and a few other mods (air filter, 4inch exhaust, overboost annihlator). The truck now has about 172K on it - original trans. The last 4-5 days or so, I've been noticing when I'm going between 40-50 the check engine light would come on when I mashed down on the accelerator and tried to speed up while the truck was in high gear. The light would go off after a few seconds, and I never noticed any change in the trucks performance. However, the same thing happened yesterday, except when the light came on the truck starting shaking until I let off the accelerator - then it stopped andthe light went off. On the way to work this morning, the check engine light came on and the truck shakes/studders while driving if I mash the accelerator above 35mph. The truck even shudders while in motion in reverse. When I turned the truck off and back on the light went back out. What the heck is do yall think is wrong? Is the tranny worn out - or could it be something else?
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 14,541
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From: Dallas-Ft. Worth
Have you changed your fuel filter lately? Mine did that when I got some bad fuel and it jammed up the pre-pump filter.
Also, get the codes read -- it will point you in the right direction. I doubt it's the tranny -- usually when it starts giving you fits the OD light blinks.
Also, get the codes read -- it will point you in the right direction. I doubt it's the tranny -- usually when it starts giving you fits the OD light blinks.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 26,966
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From: Texas
Make sure your oil is in good shape & full. If I had to guess, I'd say you'll find a P1211 ICP code from mashing on the accelerator, and a P1316 code from a loose UVCH.
Have you read enough on here to know how to OHM the injectors at the valve cover plug, or do you need instrucitons?
Have you read enough on here to know how to OHM the injectors at the valve cover plug, or do you need instrucitons?
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 26,966
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From: Texas
Yep, that's right. It's easier if you take a test lead with a little clip and hook it to the middle prong C. It's a challenge to hold 2 leads on those prongs AND be able to stare at the OHM meter at the same time.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 3,292
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From: Ardenvoir, Washington
GGIICIIGG
G = Glow Plug
I = Injector +
C = Injector -
Ohms between the G and block Ground should be 0.1 - 2.0 ohms.
Ohms between the I and C one at a time if one or more is > 5 ohms, it will point to the which gasket connector is open and not making connection.. or UVC harness being shorted.
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Got the codes last night. Heres what I got:
P1316 - Injector driver module codes detected
P0478 - Exhaust pressure Control Valve High Input
The truck runs perfect for the first 5 minutes while I crank it cold. But after like 5mins it starts stumbling on the idle a bit and the truck shakes when I hit 4th gear and shakes terribley when it shifts into overdrive. What in the world do yall think is going on? Any advice is greatly appreciated.
P1316 - Injector driver module codes detected
P0478 - Exhaust pressure Control Valve High Input
The truck runs perfect for the first 5 minutes while I crank it cold. But after like 5mins it starts stumbling on the idle a bit and the truck shakes when I hit 4th gear and shakes terribley when it shifts into overdrive. What in the world do yall think is going on? Any advice is greatly appreciated.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 3,292
Likes: 6
From: Ardenvoir, Washington
You got the classic under the valve cover plastic piece of junk 9 pin connector LOOSE problem.. Remove the valve covers, (gaskets are reusable) and push the connector back to together and get a clip from Ford to keep it from happening again... or I just made a shim to slip behind the two plastic locking tabs. see my gallery pic's..
Let us know what you find..
Let us know what you find..
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 26,966
Likes: 50
From: Texas
I also agree the P1316 is most likely a loose UVCH. You want to find the flat 9 pin connector located on the inboard side of each head and unplug it. Then take your ohm meter and check the injector wires as described here
What you're looking for is something like this (borrowd from Clint's gallery)
The shim is not a bad idea. You can buy the shims from Ford or International, or make you're own as described in Clint's gallery. Here's how I shimmed mine.
Once you figure out which side is loose, pull that valve cover and plug the wire back in. If you decide to add shims to both sides, I'd highly recommend you also re-torque your rocker arm pedestal bolts to 20 ft-lbs, and the lower injector hold down bolt to 120 in-lbs while you've got the valve covers off. Makes the engine sound so much better when you tighten the injectors back up.
Now for your P0478, the typical fix is done like this Welcome to guzzle's Exhaust Backpressure Sensor Cleaning Maintenance Web Page
GGIICIIGG
G = Glow Plug
I = Injector +
C = Injector -
Ohms between the G and block Ground should be 0.1 - 2.0 ohms.
Ohms between the I and C one at a time if one or more is > 5 ohms, it will point to the which gasket connector is open and not making connection.. or UVC harness being shorted.
G = Glow Plug
I = Injector +
C = Injector -
Ohms between the G and block Ground should be 0.1 - 2.0 ohms.
Ohms between the I and C one at a time if one or more is > 5 ohms, it will point to the which gasket connector is open and not making connection.. or UVC harness being shorted.
The shim is not a bad idea. You can buy the shims from Ford or International, or make you're own as described in Clint's gallery. Here's how I shimmed mine.
Once you figure out which side is loose, pull that valve cover and plug the wire back in. If you decide to add shims to both sides, I'd highly recommend you also re-torque your rocker arm pedestal bolts to 20 ft-lbs, and the lower injector hold down bolt to 120 in-lbs while you've got the valve covers off. Makes the engine sound so much better when you tighten the injectors back up.
Now for your P0478, the typical fix is done like this Welcome to guzzle's Exhaust Backpressure Sensor Cleaning Maintenance Web Page
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Senior User
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Hey fellas thanks for all yalls help. i'm gonna start working on it tomorrow, I dont get off till 7 tonight. Would yall consider this a hard job to do, about how long do yall think it would take? Thanks again
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 26,966
Likes: 50
From: Texas
If you haven't done it before, I'd set aside 4 - 6 hours to pull both valve covers, check the wiring, retorque the injectors and rockers, and put things back together.
Make sure you have one of those swivel joints for your sockets. There's a couple of bolts on the passenger side valve cover you'll need this.
Make sure you have one of those swivel joints for your sockets. There's a couple of bolts on the passenger side valve cover you'll need this.
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Senior User
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hey guys, thanks again for yalls help. Before I get too far in this job. i have a few more questions. Do I need to replace the sensors while I am in there already? How much do they cost, anybody have a part number? and secondly - is there only 1 sensor on each side of the motor? Thanks again for yalls help.