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It appers that my 94 3.0 V6 ranger's throttle is stuck, and the brakes no longer work. I did a burnout with it (hey, im honest) and went to hit the brakes and discovered that they are locked in the positin theyde be in before you step on them. And the throttle is set to petal-to-the-metal and although the pedal moves, it doesnt seem to have any effect.
Im learning as i go, and appriciate any help i can get. Thanks
Is this the same truck that has the bad transmission and maybe a blowed headgasket? Burnouts are bad on vehicles in A1 shape...its suicide on a vehicle that already has its problems.
Anyways, I am willing to bet your truck has a bad motor mount or loose nut on one of them. It sounds as if the engine twisted during the burnout and knocked off the vacuum hose going to the brake booster. When that hose comes off the brake pedal gets hard as the vacuum assist no longer functions. A leak in that hose will also cause the engine to rev up high as it introduces a huge amount of unmetered air to the system. The brake booster is the large round object on the drivers side under the hood. If the hose is cracked or disconnected it should be fairly obvious.
same truck allright-but what the owner thought was a blowed gasket and transmission was a $20 modulater valve-it worked fine after that. So i should just follow that hose??? Thanks!!
It wasnt even that much of a burnout either. What does the motor mount look like?? (ya, i know its dumb)
3.0s arent nearly as weak as everyone says they are. Im not sure if people are just mad because most 3.0s last for 300k plus while the majority of 4.0s blow up way before the then, or the fact that a slightly modded 3.0 will murder a 4.0. I once had an '90 Aerostar 3.0 2wd and currently have a '91 ranger 2wd 4.0. Several times I lined the ranger up with the star and always the aerostar left the ranger in the dust. I swapped in an 8.8 with 4:10 gears and a fms trac-lock on the aerostar which probably helped. It also had an adjustable modulator, shift kit, and shortened kick down cable but that doesnt realy help it off the line.
Sorry to jack your thread....
The motor mounts are located below the exhaust manifolds. You should see a metal bracket with a large stud or two running through it. The motor mounts are located below the metal brackets.
Fix the vacuum leak so the brakes work and the engine will idle before you try to check for a bad mount. After those problems are fixed, pop the hood and have someone look at the engine. Place the truck in drive and give it gas while holding the brake. Then do the same in reverse. If one side of the engine raises up more than a half inch or so the mount on that side is bad.
No, were mad because they have the power of a duratec 4 cylinder and the mpg of a 4.0. There better suited for a boat anchor than a ranger engine. I saw a kid delivering newspapers on a bike beat a 3.0 to the corner. Other than that, there a marvilous engine!!!
I'm kinda wondering if my own Vulcan would be quicker through the 1/4 mile than my uncle's base automatic '04 Mustang! Hehe. He must have 3.8L handicapped by drive by wire & Ford 7.5 final drive. Even with my mud tires being so much heavier, his pup could be a DOG. Not that we'd ever find out for sure as my buggy for work & he just polishes his driveway queen.
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