Need new head. Your ideas?
Thread Starter
|
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 2,564
Likes: 11
From: Wayyy NoCal, USA
Need new head. Your ideas?
Early '99 V10, about 160K miles.
Blew a plug on the road and mechanic says it already had some kind of insert work done and there was not enough material left to put any known insert in.
They see no option other than a replacement head. We cobbled together a temporary plug to get us home. I will be pulling head to check things out myself. Since I will have it home, I will be doing all work from this point forward. Lots of experience, no concerns there. I have several months to play with it, but somewhat limited $$$. No Cummins swap...
So.... If heads are buggered by bad insert job by PO, I might as well replace both heads. As a min, I'll use '03 heads. Can I fit 3V and get more power bump? Use same intake and exhausts?
Or with 160K miles, should I just find and swap in a complete low mileage engine?
Any thoughts appreciated.
Blew a plug on the road and mechanic says it already had some kind of insert work done and there was not enough material left to put any known insert in.
They see no option other than a replacement head. We cobbled together a temporary plug to get us home. I will be pulling head to check things out myself. Since I will have it home, I will be doing all work from this point forward. Lots of experience, no concerns there. I have several months to play with it, but somewhat limited $$$. No Cummins swap...
So.... If heads are buggered by bad insert job by PO, I might as well replace both heads. As a min, I'll use '03 heads. Can I fit 3V and get more power bump? Use same intake and exhausts?
Or with 160K miles, should I just find and swap in a complete low mileage engine?
Any thoughts appreciated.
Elder User
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 528
Likes: 1
From: Canada, ON New Market
Early '99 V10, about 160K miles.
Blew a plug on the road and mechanic says it already had some kind of insert work done and there was not enough material left to put any known insert in.
They see no option other than a replacement head. We cobbled together a temporary plug to get us home. I will be pulling head to check things out myself. Since I will have it home, I will be doing all work from this point forward. Lots of experience, no concerns there. I have several months to play with it, but somewhat limited $$$. No Cummins swap...
So.... If heads are buggered by bad insert job by PO, I might as well replace both heads. As a min, I'll use '03 heads. Can I fit 3V and get more power bump? Use same intake and exhausts?
Or with 160K miles, should I just find and swap in a complete low mileage engine?
Any thoughts appreciated.
Blew a plug on the road and mechanic says it already had some kind of insert work done and there was not enough material left to put any known insert in.
They see no option other than a replacement head. We cobbled together a temporary plug to get us home. I will be pulling head to check things out myself. Since I will have it home, I will be doing all work from this point forward. Lots of experience, no concerns there. I have several months to play with it, but somewhat limited $$$. No Cummins swap...
So.... If heads are buggered by bad insert job by PO, I might as well replace both heads. As a min, I'll use '03 heads. Can I fit 3V and get more power bump? Use same intake and exhausts?
Or with 160K miles, should I just find and swap in a complete low mileage engine?
Any thoughts appreciated.
the 3v heads will bolt up, the thing is that it has an adjustable cam phaser up to 60* total which is controlled by the pcm with oil via a solenoid in the valve cover. You can "jam" the pahser but you'd be loosing gains over the power band, it's not all that bad sence you now have a 3v cylinder head on your engine and efficency took a turn for the better
but you'd be a ginnea pig intell you degree the cam's, and did some dyno tunning.As for the intake your stuck with the same dellema it's volume is veriable and controlled via the pcm, if your heart is set on 3V then a 3V pcm would be a wise choice.
Do you plan on keeping the truck long enough to justify the cost of another motor installed? if yes drop in a low klm motor
Last edited by Skoda; Nov 27, 2008 at 05:16 PM. Reason: Because I Can
Thread Starter
|
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 2,564
Likes: 11
From: Wayyy NoCal, USA
Thanks for the input! There were quite a few more changes than I thought.
I have a line on an '06 from a class A motorhome with 6K miles (rear end wreck). Now I'm researching if that would be 2V or 3V... Would definitely try to get PCM and everything else I can grab.
I have a line on an '06 from a class A motorhome with 6K miles (rear end wreck). Now I'm researching if that would be 2V or 3V... Would definitely try to get PCM and everything else I can grab.
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 42,561
Likes: 423
From: Long Island USA
A Class A should be an E-series chassis, which would be the 2-valve engine.
I would check the intake ports and make sure they are the same between the '99 non-PI head and the '00-up 2-valve PI head.
Also, you are in for some trouble because the '99 PCM will want an EGR - and you'd have to keep the EGR and it's plumbing. But with PI heads, the PCM might not run "ideal".
You might be headed for a custom tune, or a 2000 PCM.
3-valve, forget it. Without the variable plenum stuff in the PCM, you would hobble the motor more than just running 2-valve heads.
I would check the intake ports and make sure they are the same between the '99 non-PI head and the '00-up 2-valve PI head.
Also, you are in for some trouble because the '99 PCM will want an EGR - and you'd have to keep the EGR and it's plumbing. But with PI heads, the PCM might not run "ideal".
You might be headed for a custom tune, or a 2000 PCM.
3-valve, forget it. Without the variable plenum stuff in the PCM, you would hobble the motor more than just running 2-valve heads.
Elder User
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 528
Likes: 1
From: Canada, ON New Market
Also there might be something about the c.o.p's and spark plugs I'll have to check it out.
conerning the veriable intake if you leave it in default mode your going to have holes in the power band which is unpleasent for stop and go situations.
If some ones concerned about CC here they are with firring order and bore diameter
1999 Non-pi 2v- 51.6/52.6cc 1-6-5-10-2-7-3-8-4-9 BD-3.5517
2000 pi 2v- 51.6/52.6cc 1-6-5-10-2-7-3-8-4-9 BD-3.5517
2007 3v- 48.1/51.1cc 1-6-5-10-2-7-3-8-4-9 BD-3.5517
New User
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
I have a similar problem as mwsf250, I blew number 8 plug out a month ago and did an insert as well. I drove it Jed Clampet style home about 12 miles thinking I blew the oxy.senser. I was successful with the insert; but now when I start up in the morning I get a puff of blue smoke. Not always does it puff smoke, about 1 in three times when starting first thing it will. I'm wondering if I damaged valve guides or seals? Anyway, can one just swap in a later model v10, say a 05 of newer from a wreak?
Trending Topics
Freshman User
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
plug thread repair
Just a thought - - You might check out the BigSert insert that is made by TimeSert. It is made specifically for cases where a previous insert has blown. I THINK the literature says if you can clean up the old hole to no more than .640 then you can use this insert. That's over 5/8 inch - - pretty good sized. Would sure beat replacing a head - - or heads - - in terms of money and effort.
This is the third recent post about a blown repair insert. Makes you wonder if all inserts are created equal?
This is the third recent post about a blown repair insert. Makes you wonder if all inserts are created equal?
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
10 Ugly Ford Trucks That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
Elder User
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 528
Likes: 1
From: Canada, ON New Market
I have a similar problem as mwsf250, I blew number 8 plug out a month ago and did an insert as well. I drove it Jed Clampet style home about 12 miles thinking I blew the oxy.senser. I was successful with the insert; but now when I start up in the morning I get a puff of blue smoke. Not always does it puff smoke, about 1 in three times when starting first thing it will. I'm wondering if I damaged valve guides or seals? Anyway, can one just swap in a later model v10, say a 05 of newer from a wreak?
If it's not piston rings on the way out I wouldn't consider getting a new engine.
New User
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
When I did the insert I tried to be careful not to drop aluminum into the cylinder. I greased the tap good and evan hooked a small hose to the shop vac to get any fallen debris out beyound the spark plug hole and into the head. If it turns out to be valve seals, can that be done with out pulling the head? The truck only has 60k and I hate the thought of tearing into it. Thanks
Elder User
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 528
Likes: 1
From: Canada, ON New Market
yes it can be doen with out removing the heads but you'll need some speacail tool to do it, valve spring compressor but not just any will work I'll see if I can find a pic of it. First thing you'll have to remvoe the valve cover then rotate the engine via the bolt on the hub. For example your working on cylinder #2 you'll have to turn the crankshaft in till both valves are closed aka TDC, you'll know when you achieved this when you see all preasure has been released by the cam followers on the valve tips. Once you see that you have achieved TDC and can not move onto removing the spark plug and filling it with compressed air next you remove the cam follower then the valve locks, springs,valve seal. *Do not forget to fill the cylinder with compressed air*
[/
New User
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
Wow, thanks a million. I now remember doing something similar to this 25 or 30 years ago on my 68 Mustang. I evan think I might be able to find that old spark plug air chuck at my dads house, although I think its for the old big plugs. Will I need a special tool for the valve seal as well? My memory of them on old engines (windsor or fe) was a mushroom style gromet pressed around the valve guide seat.
Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 4,171
Likes: 12
From: SE Texas
JL