Hey, 1977 F150 I6 80,160 original miles. I replaced a push rod and put it all back together and it ran like a top. I changed the oil, then parked it, and started it back up and took it for another test drive and still ran very good. It has a complete tune up and the carb had just been rebuilt, (two months ago).

I left and a few hours later I tried to start it and the starter would make a high whining noise. I got a rebuilt starter, and found the five year battery that is not five 1/2 years old was dead. I got a new battery, put it in and it will give me a quarter turn as if the battery is not charged.

I cleaned the up all the connection from the battery, selenoid to the starter. My jumper cable were corroded, so I bought new clamps and tied to jump it again and still about one quarter of a slow grind as if the battery is dead. I tested the battery and it indicates the battery is fully charged.

Now I am getting stumped,........ any help would be appriciated!

 

What did you test it with? A multimeter? A battery can be close to dead and still show 11-12 volts. So you're saying everything was fine with the battery until you replaced the starter?

 

I would check and make sure your getting a good ground where the starter mounts to the bell housing.sitting around can cause corrosion and loss of ground.also make sure that your getting your full battery power to your starter.also check your solonoid and make sure your not loosing anything through that.

 

{philosophical mode on}

Doggonit, posts/threads like this make me feel tired all over. :(

It's not your fault, it's the system, the schools are part of it and I don't
know what else. :/

Over and over, once a week at least(?) there is someone on here trying to
shoot electrical trouble "blindfolded" and feeling their way around guessing
their *** off as if they are hunting plumbing or mechanical problems instead
of electrical problems.

Hardly ever can you "see" electrical problems. :/

To find electrical problems you need a meter and know how to use it.
It ain't like it's too difficult for you to understand danggit! :/
You ain't stupid. It's the system that's left you ignorant. :/

Spent money on a new starter, you prob'ly didn't need, when you could have
bought a meter and found the problem (or problems!) and fixed it already
and posted what all you found instead of still wondering what the heck the
trouble is. :)

Everyone on FTE (owners of old clunkers;) needs to know how to shoot
electrical trouble on their pickups. It ain't rocket science.

The only real tool you need is an analog volt-ohm meter with good leads
and maybe a clip jumper or two. Sometimes a lead or two with probes on
the ends and/or a needle or something to poke through the insulation into
the wire can be helpful. Wiring diagram is a big help too.

Anyone on here can learn this.
I'm a retired dumb ditch digger and know how! ;)
BTW, I didn't learn it in a public school either. :(

Alvin in AZ
ps- some will say my post didn't help the OP :/
pps- what am I supposed to do? :)
ppps- put on a blindfold and grope around in the dark with the OP? :(

{philosophical mode off?}
{is it ever off with me? ;)}

 

I tested the battery with a one of those multi coclored ball floats. You know you suck up a sample out of the battery and see how many ***** float. I know that is not the best piece of testing equipment, but the battery seems to power up everything else. The dome light comes on, the head lights appear to be nice and bright, even in the day light.

I cleaned everything starting with the new battery posts, terminals, solonoid, & connection at the start. Everything was also sprayed with an electricial contact lubricant and cleaner.

Trying to jump it makes no difference.

 

But, ut... :)
How you so sure it ain't the relay? :)

There's been a few times when I gave someone a jump using their jumper
cables and it wouldn't work. Switched to my jumper cables (I made) and
their vehicle started right up. No kidding and no exaggerations on that.

To test the battery and charging system all a guy has to do is put his volt
meter on the battery posts themselves (cool we ain't got Chevys huh? ;)

Read the voltage (blow on the plastic meter face to remove any static)...
~12 volts. :)
Have someone try to start the sucker.
Stays ~12 volts and doesn't start = open circuit
Drops to <10 volts and cranks slow and tired sounding = weak battery
Drops way down there like 0 or so = dead battery (don't mean it's bad)
Drops to ~11 volts and starts right up = OK :)

After it starts and you have them rev it up just a bit the voltage rises to
~14 volts = charging circuit is working good! :)

Easy as that. :)

Ok, so your voltage doesn't drop. :/
You'll need to move the meter leads to find the problem. ;)

What you are wanting to do is "box in" the open.
Put the leads on the starter positive starter terminal (or the starter relay's
positive terminal) and the negative lead on the engine block.

Getting 12 volts still? = starter is open (if you had the + lead on the starter)
0 volts or close to it? = open in a cable connection or relay contacts

A friend showed up here one day after parking her pickup on a hill every
time for over a week while on an Elk hunt. She had cleaned the battery
posts but didn't help, ...figured the battery was dead. I got the meter
out and went through what I just typed out there.

The open was in the connection right behind the battery post, on the cable's
clamp itself. Easy as that.

When using a meter it's almost always "easy as that". :)

Stop guessing and wasting time and money on parts and on trips running
after parts.

FiNgure;) out what the problem is and fix it.
You might find out all(!) the parts you took off were good ones. :)

Or who knows what you'll find. :)

All we know at this point is...
1) Alvin's a butthead
2) you and nobody else, don't know what the problem is

Alvin in AZ
ps- see what I mean about this electrical guessing game driving me crazy?
pps- a meter will find the problem/s "just like that"

 

the only real way to test a battery is with an avr to give you a good idea of its condition.I would think just about any shop should have one of these and probably not charge you for testing your battery.and alvin had some very good advise for anyone doing any kind of electrical work.use the KISS methode.keep it simple stupide.alot of problems stem from something that can simply be found with an inexpensive multi-meter.but like utf said it wouldn't be the first time someone bought a reman starter and it was junk shortly after instal.but if your starter will crank an little even with a jump,I would check your battery before I went through too much trouble,one or more dead cells in a battery could cause the loss of even the extra power given by the jumper vehicle.you can also try putting your jumper cable power to the battery side of the solonoid and your ground directly to the other end of the ground cable on the block and see what you have from there.good luck to you.

 

Ok, problem solved! A friend has a towing service and he is a good mechanic to boot. He sent one of his jockeys over who put a battery pack on the battery and it still acted the same. We then placed the negative on the ear of the started and the bell houseing and touched the positive to the positive connection of the starter, same thing,.
Now knowing we bypassed the entire system, I felt confident it was the starter.

I gave NAPA a call and they had another on the shelf which they tested and it worked good. I tore this one off and took it back and it did not work right on their bench test. SO I come home hook it up, it the key and it fires right off!! ,..............

So I guess the only parts swapping I did was a five year battery that was five and 1/2 years old for a new one. So THANKS TO EVERYONE, I DO appriciate your advise and suggestions. That goes to you too ALVIN,....THANKS!,...

 

Yeah, I am glad too, it was starting to get frustrating. I never had a problem with a rebuilt starter before, but heard of others who had. From now on I am not taking it out of the store unless they bench test it first.

I know this 300 had been setting in a barn for a number years and had not been started.
It went from having to feather the gas to keep it running, to now hitting the key, and it fires off and purrs like a kitten, how sweet! It don't smoke a drop (yet). Now onward to the transmission to change the filter and fluid, hope I don't have to come back crying for help but if I do, I know where to come to, THANKS AGAIN GUYS!!,.........

 

That's certainly the way the "pros" do it. ;)

BTDT and they can say your battery is good when it ain't.
Maybe there's operator error involved? :/

The very first time I ran into one of those machines I -bet- the guy he was
wrong and sure enough the next day I was back with a dead battery. :)
(company truck)

Simply putting the volt meter on the battery and using the starter to test
the battery has never failed me with a wrong reading so far. No kidding. :)

A few times too many I took a bad battery to Sears only to have them turn
me away (don't live in town) just having to return with a dead battery in a
day or so after it "tested good" with their fancy equipment.

The thing the "pros" don't seem to understand is the battery doesn't just
slowly and evenly die away, near the end, it goes stupid. :)

Anyway after too many times being told it was good when I knew better...
I began pouring half the acid out of the battery and re-filling it with water
just so the AVR battery tester will find it "bad" the first stinkin' time I take
it in. LOL :)

I've returned and changed out way more batteries than just my own, I've
ended up being "the battery guy" for friends and family and neighbors too.
Besides the railroad signal batteries.

The trick to this simple enough...
Get your meter and take some readings while everything is working right
...and then you'll recognize the symptoms when it ain't. :)

Alvin in AZ

 

tees glad to hear your problem is solved,thats why we are all here isn't it.yes alvin the avr's aren't always right,specially at a place like sears where the guy using it was stocking shelves the day before.the one I have here in the shop is never wrong.but I'm sure your tried and tested meter method works just fine too,not trying to put your ideas down,just adding my imput and what works for us.

 

You betcha, Nor! :)

That's what's cool about the internet and threads, the thread is read and
then taken as a whole by the reader. :) They can take what they want
from it and leave the rest. Even wrong information or silly stuff (in my
case) is a good addition! ;)

One cool thing about my "meter method" is the whole system can be tested
while your at it. ;)

Alvin in AZ

 

very true alvin,very true.

 

Alvin, I cannot rep you again for your good advice in this thread, I must spread it around...

 

It's info/advise is priceless, and makes the hobby of fixin up our dents that much more enjoyable!