New valve stem seals
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 217
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From: Southeastern N.C.
Sorry I ment valve stem seals. I figured out that you could but I have another issue. With these hyd. lifters, do I hand tighten and then toruqe?
Does each cylinder have to be turned to the compresion stroke ( both valves closed) to correctly retighten rockers.
Does each cylinder have to be turned to the compresion stroke ( both valves closed) to correctly retighten rockers.
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 217
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From: Southeastern N.C.
I got the info off AutoZone's site,very helpful. I got it all back together,( a pain with the intake on the 300 efi's, started it up and has a worse lifter tap that i had before which is not the reason I tore it apart in the first place. All I wanted to do was new valve cover gasket, pushrod cover gasket and new valve seals. So I pulled it all apart again and there is no loose rocker arms, valves, and the pushrods are not bent at all and the rods are clean and clear because I sprayed WD40 in each rod to insure oil is getting to the rockers. Could a lifter cause this? I am going to put the intake back on without the valve cover and start it up to ensure visually that oil is getting up to the rockers and mabey take the lifters out from the top (if possible?) to clean them up and make sure that one of them are not pluged up. Any other advice would be greatly appreciated. I have learned so much from this site and I am very greatful for the advice that I get and I take pride in doing things myself insted of haveing someone else do it.
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 504
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From: Saddle Brook United State
You make no mention of what the year of the engine is. There are two different types of rocker arm used by the 300 and depending upon what type it is the adjustment is different. See a service manual for your type of rocker arm, for the correct way to adjust. The side cover must be removed and the pushrods removed to remove the lifters. They or one of them could be responsible for your tap. I would remove all the lifters and check them for wear on the cam contact surface or they could be plugged internally. While it is not generally recommended practice I would replace them all while they are out. They are not expensive. If you do reuse them put them back in the same lifter bore they came from. Put a good cam lube on the bottom of the new lifters and run the engine at 1500+ rpm for about 20 min to seat the lifters. Depending upon how long the lifters have been in the engine and how much varnish has built up around the body of the lifter they can be slightly difficult to remove. The problem is they are hard to grab and pull straight up. You may have to grab them the best you can and move them up and down to scrape off the varnish that is built up on the bottom 1/4" of the lifter body.
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 481
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From: Deep River, CT.
I agree with all that STRACTOR has said. You should know that with the later engines that have rocker nuts and studs that have a taper for the nut to be tightened down against and torqued to spec, it is very important to put the pushrods back to the location they came out of. There are 3 pushrod lenghts available, standard, .060 longer and .060 shorter. if you have no history of your engine, you should do the valve adj procedure as outlined in a service manual. It is a bit of a nusience but not bad if you understand it. Parts stores sell plastic molded containers for storing the nuts, rockers, pivot ball, pushrod and the lifter all in order from their orignal position in the engine or you can make your own from a piece of 4X4 wood
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 217
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From: Southeastern N.C.
It's a 1988 300. I went by the AutoZone web site on the adjustments, # 1 tdc(both valves closed) torqe to 18-25 ft lbs. and so on and I did one rocker adjustment at a time so all parts went back in the original places. It sounds like only one thats tapping. Thanks for the tip, I'll try that tommorow or saturday.
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 481
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From: Deep River, CT.
Sorry, forgot to answer your initial ? Yes you can replace valve stem seals without taking off the cyl head. You need an air compressor, an adaptor to go in the spark plug hole for applying the compressed air and a valve spring compressor. A friend who may have done it to help might be nice also
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: Southeastern N.C.
Yea I had heard of using the air method so I did it that way and worked well when I got the hang or it.
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Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 217
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From: Southeastern N.C.
I instead of new lifters, I just let it run for about 15 minutes or so with a little Seafoam in the crankcase and it sounds like a new engine (up top) very quiet lifters even quieter than before. Thanks for the advice again. Now I have a new project. I'm getting a 89 F-250 4x4 5.0 302 with a 5 speed tranny that needs a little TLC. I'll be picking your brains here shortly
