I am going to install a flex-a-lite transmission cooler inline with the radiator / stock cooler to help with keeping the temp down, I know that ford has had some issues with the 4R100 trans in the diesels and was wondering if I should be worried with my 2003 F-350 5.4 4x4? Would it be better to get the banks transcommand (I am not sure if it will work or not for my truck?) or should I get a aftermarket shift kit? I am not sure where to look to find a shift kit. I hear transcommand is good and that B&M isn't good. I am mechanical so having to remove the valve body isn't a big deal if thats what it takes to save from having to rebuild / buy a new trans. I am also looking into switching the fluid to full synthetic once I can find out if it will be good to do or not. I have 33" tires also and may be getting 35-37" once I get enough for a lift.

 

Simplest and most effective thing to do,is to order the Sonnax line-mod valve kit,and a set of Sonnax accumulator springs. It's about $60 for those items,and it's all you really need to do.
The Accumulator springs:
Sonnax Transmission, Torque Converter, Performance, Driveline Parts :: Transmission Specialties :: 36948-18K :: Part Summary

The line mod valve kit:
Sonnax Transmission, Torque Converter, Performance, Driveline Parts :: Transmission Specialties :: 96948-01K :: Part Summary

Both of these items are available online from www.bulkpart.com
JL

 

I have been looking at a modified 'Valve body' / going with a transgo kit. I am not sure which kit is best to go with, or if any will do what a 'line mod valve kit / accumulator springs' would do or not? I am capable of removing valve bodies and such but am not really good with transmissions such as how they work with the springs and such. Will a transgo kit do everything that a valve body would do / will the valve body do what a shift kit would do (not sure if they are pretty much the same thing or not, if they are I'd rather just do the kit myself and save some money) Or will I need to buy one of each? I do not wan't to kill the pump by overloading the system. Hopefully my question isnt too confusing, I am just trying to figure out the best way to get good shifts in all gears and also be able to keep the torque convertor out. I do not want to have it programmed as I hear the pump gets wore out from that and what should I do for the torque convertor lock up.

 

Factory Tech valve body...all you need.




Just make sure that if you are running some kind of a tuner that the transmission line pressure is dialed back near stock. Otherwise the shifts will rattle the dash.

 

+1 for the FTVB.
Also, remove the exaust restriction points at the y-pipe.
I found that replacing the y-pipe not only helped with performance, it enhanced the shifting with the valve body.

 

I am hopefully going to get some exhaust work done soon (possibly duals) depending on what the exhaust shop wants to charge.

I called Transgo today to see what they had to offer for the trans and they rec. the 4R100 Tugger kit which is $100 and then another $45 for the torque convertor lock up valve kit, which to do the shift kit correctly will require to have to pull the trans / the pump to install the valves and springs to up the pump and also the torgue convertor to make it a positive engagement rather than just a time delayed shift when you hit the O/D switch on / off. = $150 or so for parts + around $500 in labor to have the pump pulled (I am mechanically inclined but do not have the proper tools to pull the trans and pump at my place so I would be forced to take to a shop) Not sure if it's worth it or not to do it now.

With the Factory Tech VB will it help up the pump pressure and help the torque convertor? Or is their something else I can get to help out more? I am just looking for the best way to keep the trans from going out and have better shifting without harm to the pump and internals.

I was also told that I could use a tuner to up the pump pressure through the solenoid without harming the pump (Transgo) I would be interested in the Factory Tech VB if it can do what I am looking for, as it is not too bad of a price / or the Tugger Kit if it will do the same as the VB swap (and may not do the pump upgrade????)

 

Whole point of the FTVB is that you DON'T have to increase line pressure to firm up the shifts. Anything that increases line pressure is bad for the pump even using a tuner.

 

As a blanket statement-this is wrong.
Increasing line pressure all the time under all conditions is bad.
Commanding an increase in pressure only during the shift is not. It must be done using the correct parameter in the PCM, and not in the line pressure table for it to be done right.
JL

 

Transgo also has a standard shift kit for the 4R100. It is not the Tugger, although the same parts are in the Tugger kit. I installed the shift kit in both my 01 5.4 Expedition and 03 7.3 F250 pickup. Did the accumulator and main valve body modifications. Did not do the converter. Only required dropping the pan. I was happy with the results on both vehicles, especially the Expedition that originally had a soft shift. If you want a banging hard shift this is not the one to use. With the Tugger you can make it shift harder, but requires a bit of trial and error. It requires drilling the main valve body plate to adjust shift firmness. If it shifts too hard you have to get a new plate and start over. Bought both kits off of Ebay.

 

And the vast majority of tuners don't do that. Even then it's not particularly healthy. FTVB, no pressure increase at all, best way of going about it. My info comes from a guy who's been working on these transmissions from their inception, I'll put my trust there.

 

Put your trust in Gregg if you wish-I choose not to.
A good tuner that understands the control system does make the changes necessary to line pressure for safe and efficient operation.
JL

 

Ive also heard that you can install a resistor to increase line pressure but the pressure will be increased at all times, which I have asked 2 trans guys and both said that it will not cause pump harm. One was Transgo and the other is a very respected Ford diesel / trans tech whos been in the field for 20+ years. Im debating on the FTVB (but have heard of some that think the shift at one point is too soft (cant remember if it was 1-2 or 2-3) It seems as if the FTVB is just a shift kit / or a do it yourself kit with different valves / springs (sonex??) which if thats the case I can do it for cheaper, what makes them different?

 

No,this is bad.
The fluid pump in the trans is a positive displacement pump,and it moves the exact same volume of fluid every revolution. You control pressure by restricting the feed orifices. When you do this,you increase the load on the pump and the parasitic load on the engine. This extra load on the pump causes substantially increased wear on the pump,and the lower volume of fluid at a higher pressure will cause fluid starvation on internal components.
JL

 

Please don't knock something until you've tried it.
I have the same rig as you do. I have a FTVB in an otherwise stock transmission. I KNOW what a FTVB valve body does. I don't have to speculate.
If you can do better, then do it and report back as to how you did it and why your method may be better. Maybe then some of us could take your advice.

 

I'm getting lots of people now who upped their line pressure with software a few years ago and are now buying pumps. Ford issued a NOTAM on this in 1996 and I've been saying it as long, NEVER use softrware to regulate line pressure in a 4R100. Ford built 13 different models of the 7G422 part, if it could be done properly with the PCM regulating it, they would have done it that way, because having a lot of different options on an assembly line is really a bad thing.
What we do in the FTVB is install the parts above from Sonnax, install valves made in house and we alter the fluid flow into clutches that allows the circuit to be full and underpressure at all times, instead of partially full. By keeping the circuit full but below line pressure, we increase the accuracy of shift duration, Ford set it to be within 20ms, I can tune it to within 2ms. I also decrease Duration, (the time it takes the shift to occur and how long wear is happening on each shift event) from the 20-40 second window in the Factory Spec, to 15-20ms, just a little lower than the factory setup but enough to make you feel it and reduce wear significantly.

The transgo kit is problem in models after 1996, it calls for yiou to drill holes in the valve body, which aside from ruining the casting allows an exhaust pressure drop on the event, and the array of little srpings they have you install bounce around in the aluminum casting and tear pieces of metal out of the bore caps and the bore, introducing contamination into the wormtrail.

The converter mod mentioned is not only IMO a dumb thing to do, there is a much easier way to do the same thing if you must. First, understand that all this mod does is make your converter lockup on/off instead of modulated, and Ford spent millions figuring out how to modulate it because it results in more consistent and reliable operation. You can install a solenoid body from a non PWM tranny into a later model and it works fine, no PWM no dropping the tranny (just the pan) and the 7G391 part is availible for about $75 if you know where to get one, about $125 at the dealer (just order one from a 1995 truck, I think the part number is E9TZ-7G391-AB, but not sure) Like I said, it's a dumb idea, but doing that saves you from dropping the tranny to do something dumb. The on/off converter lock will feel cool for a while till you get used to it, and the converter clutch will fail sooner because of it though. That said, it does make sense if you get an aftermarket converter with High Carbon Content Clutches, the big dog clutch material can handle the sudden engagements without stripping a layer off every time it locks. Remember, Ford designed the PWM system to protect the converter from STOCK trucks, the damage you do with modified engines etc... is a lot harder on the tranny that what they were designed for and I don't think that's a good time to start removing the things that protect them.