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Hi all
My truck (that has been the best money I've ever spent) started doing something that must be fixed now.
It will randomly die. Lights, gauges, engine- everything. Its just for a moment then works fine. Its done it at startup, and while on the road. Is it a disconnect like a broken wire etc or a direct short? Where should I start? All connections look and feel fine. Any ideas?
Its a 90 F250HD 351 5Sp 4X4 with ~112,000 miles. I'm the original owner, and have never messed with the wiring other than add a trailer brake 6 years ago. Any comments will be appreciated
check, then double check your grounds (body/engine side and battery side) and the battery post connections. if you can move the battery terminal connections by hand they are not on there well enough.
Make sure the connection to the alternator is clean and tight. Start the truck, and while its idling, wiggle all the connections to see if you can narrow down if it may be a bad or internally corroded cable.
Good morning everyone- Im back. So far its not throwing any codes, and all the connectors are tight and appear to be OK. When I started it to check the EO codes, the glitch showed up. The starter bumped, then everything died. I released the ign, and it worked fine.
I'm going to go over the connectors again, but meanwhile, what could kill the entire electrical like that? I am concerned about a momentary direct short, but wracking my brain doesnt give me any ideas at other possibilities.
Could the ign switch fail in such a way to disconnect all power?
Thanks for the ideas so far, keep em coming please!
Does it seem like you are turning the key as far as you can turn it in order to start? There was times that mine would kill your fingers trying to get it started, especially on a hot day. The ignition switch down on the column was loose and slipped down a little. Check that out, may be your money maker.
OK I inspected the ign switch and it looks fine, no smells or heat damage etc (adjusting it to engage properly is kind of a hassle). I even had the alternator checked (at 2 shops multiple times) and its good.
While turning this over in my mind I remembered about 2 months ago I jumped a vehicle, and crossed the cables for a big spark. Is there a main fusible link or fuse somewhere I may have damaged? I'd like to inspect that next.
Lastly a parts guy thinks that the clutch interlock switch *may* be causing all this, think it could?
I much appreciate the comments and interest with this dilemma.
Check the fusible links by the starter solenoid. Get someone to help you with the ignition and have them watch your gauges while you wiggle the links. Have them turn the key on, you wiggle or lightly tug on the fusible links, but don't pull too hard. If it is a bad link, it will show itself with the wiggle test.
(adjusting it to engage properly is kind of a hassle).
But, did you do it? Just have toremove the fuse box cover and the 4 or 6 bolts that hold the steering column bracket, the two switch nuts are right there and the switch slides up and down almost 1/2 inch.
Check the fusible links by the starter solenoid. Get someone to help you with the ignition and have them watch your gauges while you wiggle the links. Have them turn the key on, you wiggle or lightly tug on the fusible links, but don't pull too hard. If it is a bad link, it will show itself with the wiggle test.
Well, I just got in from reassembling everything, and I wiggled and tugged, but got nowhere. I'm going to take it for a drive and try and get it to act up.
But, did you do it? Just have toremove the fuse box cover and the 4 or 6 bolts that hold the steering column bracket, the two switch nuts are right there and the switch slides up and down almost 1/2 inch.
Your call.
Dave
Since I don't have a service manual, I turned the key back to the acc position and adjusted it to the correct position and finger tightened the nuts. Then I switched the key to off, and tighted it correctly. I ran it through all the positions several times to verify I had it correct. If theres a proper way, let me know as I prefer using the factory methods as they are "tried and true"
I didn't need to remove the fuse box or anything else, guess I got lucky huh?
This other problem is very troubling, as this is my daily driver and I need the dependability.
You don't have a battery in it that is just a tad to tall allowing the positive post to hit and ground out against the hood when you hit bumps/holes in the road do you?
Dan I have a stock Motorcraft bettery in there. The original lasted 11 years, I was so impressed I bought one from Geweke Ford in Yuba City CA for a replacement.
Double check your connections at the starter relay(?) on the firewall. I had a similar issue with all electrical components would go out when you turn the key to start. Turn the key back and on a couple times and it would finally go. Turns out there was a little corrosion on the terminals at that relay. Cleaned it all up and secured everything. Good as new.
Although this never happened to me when driving, like yours, give it a shot.
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