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I've seen many a jeep in my time lifted just with new longer shackles. Now this summer I'd like to lift the truck 8", but as many posts have pointed out, there ain't no 8" TTB lift. So I figured I'd get creative, starting with the 6" from Skyjacker and go from there.
AZF1504X4 has a nifty trick with turning over the rear shackles and I'm wondering just how much lift that actually got.
Now that would leave my front substantially lower, so would I be able to remedy the problem with longer shackles up front? My concern is that it may be safe on a light jeep but unsafe on my heavy-as-hell F-250 HD. Also, I know that would require new alignment, but would a couple extra inches mess it up bad enough that a good alignment shop couldn't handle it?
In the back it's not all that much of a problem. I did this on my high boy and got an honest 4" of lift from it. This will rotate the pinion up some but I haven't had any problems w/ vibration or nothing yet. In the front it's a different story. I made new shackles for the front that were 3" longer than stock which nets about 1 1/2" of lift(W/ shackle lifts you gain about 1/2 the amount). I built the shackles out of 2"x3/8" plate cross braced w/ a piece of 2" square tube. I wouldn't reccomend lifting the front more than an inch or two w/ shackles. the only way to correct the alignment issues this causes is by adding degreed shims between then axle and the spring pack.
when I flipped the mount I got an honest 3" of lift in the rear of the truck. When you flip the shackle on the rear it also raises your pinion angle in the corrct position so there won't be any binding.
That is why on a jeep you see the extended shackle in the rear and the extended shackle in the front so it rotates the axle alittle and places the pinion angle correctly. As for putting extended shackles in the front on a TTB I have never done that. Because you will put a twist at the axle pivot bracket. you might be able to get some axle pivot drop brackets from J.C Whitney and then try the shackles in the front.
I am working with Daystar right now on a prototype of an extended shackle for the rear to give me more lift in the rear it is actually a lowering shackle if the mount is factory but you flip the mount like I did it will lift the rear 4"s more when I get it installed I will post it in my gallery
I called Skyjacker and they said they do make an 8" Sus lift for '80-'96 ford F-150's...They could be mistaken but i see that acouple of companys sell them also.
So maybe my best option is this: buy Skyjacker's 6" lift. Then, on the front, create 2" longer shackles for an extra inch of lift. This will hopefully keep the front end alignable and not twist the leaves very much. In the back, I can flip the shackle, and yank skyjackers 3" block in favor of a (at least in my opinion) safer 1" block. Maybe I won't even need a block besides the stock one, and can get away with just the factory block and add-a-leaf. Then I should have a fairly durable 7ish inch lift.
Now one more question for AZF1504X4. How do you get those rivits out for the rear shackle bracket? Will I have to drop my rear fuel tank to do this? Right now there's just enough room between the tank and the frame to sqeeze my fingers in there. I "should" (operative word here) be able to fit an open ended wrench in to hold a bolt while it's tightened.
You must have dual tanks in that case yes drop the one tank and the easiest way to get the rivets out is with a torch and a hammer and punch to drive it thru after you got the head cut off. Or you can use a die grinder and cut an X in the head of the rivet or see if you can get the grinder head in there to cut the head off and use a punch to drive it thru but it takes awhile to do it this way and alot of swearing.
Cool, thanks folks, if I can put together the cash for tires and wheels, (as you all know, the most expensive part), then I'll put on the 6", do the shackles, and call it good, at least for now. When I do this, I'll try and borrow somebody's digital camera and show you all how it turns out.