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Welcome to FTE Tony. Can you give us a little better description of your miss? What CPS are you running? There have been some issues with the "new & improved" gray CPS from Ford causing cylinder contribution faults. Switching back to a black CPS from IH made a difference in the way my truck, and several others, idled.
As Clux mentioned, the issues with the cam were on the older trucks, and the movement was toward the CPS (hence the shim) not away from it as you're describing. I'd say it's time to put the truck on a scanner and monitor rotational velocity and fuel pulse width. Also do a cylinder contribution test to see if you maybe just have an injector going south on you.
The O/T seems like the "club" for 7.3 people that really don't like the real one. I know I don't. It also allows "club-like" activities for non-supporters. That may be good or bad, depending on your perspective. If I were Internet Brands, I'd probably take a dimmer view.
I think that that those that have left for the O/T thread weren't all that technically oriented anyway. That's a pretty-broad statement, and there are certainly some pretty technically-savvy people that frequent there, but I think you guys get the idea of what I'm trying to say.
Maybe we're just all anti-social?
Naaaaa!
They'll come back when they have a problem with their truck.
In the meantime, I sorta' enjoy the additional quiet. Sorta' like sitting under that shade-tree, twistin' wrenches, listenin' to the birds singin'.
Thanks to ALL. I like the fact that you read what I have replaced & tryed, to solve this problem. I am running the grey cps, but I put the black (my glove box spare ) one in last week for 1 day - rougher & hard to crank.I have cut .02 off the stop on the black cps & thinking of putting it back in. What happens when the cam gear hits the cps? Is it just a matter of changing the cps or are there oil pump or cam gear problems? I am thinking about getting a couple of the grey sensors to cut the stop down .010 & .020 to see if that will help my problem. I am going into work tonight & will have a better meter there to check the batterys, also I will check the alternator output. Just 1 more question, should I be able to move the cam front to back with the valve train intact? I do not have the equipment to record the exhaust or cab noise, but I don't think you can hear this but you can feel it. I will try a few things & get back to the thinking folks here. Thanks T.Tolle
Just make sure you keep an open mind. If you put your blinders on and only chase 1 issue, you're likely to miss the problem.
If the cam gear hits the little plastic CPS (that has a magnet in it), I don't think anything good will come of it. If it were me, I would NOT put a CPS in that you've shaved the stop on, but I don't have enough knowledge to make a definitive decision on this. Hopefully others will chime in with their opinions.
I still think a scanner would be your best option at this point.
I think that is what John, at Swamps Diesel, in Nashville was using to try to find this problem. We spent about an hour driving around trying to figure it out. We did a few contribution tests, buzz tests. I'm going to have someone kick me if it is a battery problem. I think there is supposed to be .02 clearance from cps to cam gear. That is why I was thinking of getting some grey cps & taking .01 off. One more thing , when I let off the throttle, it is not smooth , it gets to a certain spot & the power falls off - not a smooth power loss , if that makes any sense. Time to go to work.
I'm surprised about this too. I guess we should be asking what mods you have on the truck so we get the full picture since I'm guessing this isn't a stock truck.
The battery comment is a good one. Should be 14+ volts at idle.
I don`t have a lot of stuff. 4" turbo back, Dual regulated fuel return set at 68 psi, the Wix air filter that takes the place of the whole air box,DP tuner -80 tow & econo, Banks 6 gun for safety now -running in #1 spot, Swamps single shot injectors , 158,000 on the clock. When you leave the pedal on the floor it runs like a monkey in hot water.
Wait for the others responses, but I believe if you start running the single shots and don't get your tunes reprogrammed to run the new injectors, you'll end up with the rough idle. Did you have Jody reburn your chip for the new sticks?
Yes sir, you don`t know what rough is till you run a split shot programmer with single shot injectors. It sounds like a serious cam, but won`t run very well.Yes Jody , Dave, John & Johnny all know me , they might not want to hear more questions, but all good guys.
Yes sir, you don`t know what rough is till you run a split shot programmer with single shot injectors. It sounds like a serious cam, but won`t run very well.
Been there, done that. My truck ran with split tunes and single injectors. It wasn't ideal but I could drive it OK. It did idle OK too but a bit rough. I couldn't get rid of the camming idle with Swamps tunes so I had Jody live tune it. Runs and idles well now. Sorry guys at Swamps, but the idle I got was unacceptable. I do not have a full on race truck. I am not going to live with that.