No idle when cold
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 380
Likes: 21
From: Las Vegas
No idle when cold
This is my first Escape post - mostly I have questions on my 76 F150.
I have a 2003 6 cyl Escape with 120,000 miles. Yesterday it began to not idle when cold.
It will start but will die instantly if I don't work the throttle. It will run and drive but I had to power brake it at stops. I drove it about 15 miles and it seemed to be willing to idle at that point. The engine was completely warmed up.
This morning it repeated the problem.
I'm in Kentucky and the temps are in the 20s and 30s.
I guess there is a cold start sensor or equivalent? Can a regular guy test it and/or change it?
Thanks!
I have a 2003 6 cyl Escape with 120,000 miles. Yesterday it began to not idle when cold.
It will start but will die instantly if I don't work the throttle. It will run and drive but I had to power brake it at stops. I drove it about 15 miles and it seemed to be willing to idle at that point. The engine was completely warmed up.
This morning it repeated the problem.
I'm in Kentucky and the temps are in the 20s and 30s.
I guess there is a cold start sensor or equivalent? Can a regular guy test it and/or change it?
Thanks!
Posting Guru
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 1,534
Likes: 2
From: Warren, MI
I just sold a 97 Ranger to get a 09 Escape. Not exactly sure how the newer ones operate similiar to the 97. Idle is controlled by the PCM from inputs from sensors like the TPS, MAF, coolant temp, air temp and maybe more. The PCM sends a pulse modualted signal to the IAC(idle air control) valve which bypasses the throttle plate to increase/decrease air to the engine.
You need some good books and a good OBD-II scanner capable of monitoring engine parameters. A scanner can tell you by just turning the key to ON at what values your sensors are.
Temperature sensors can be checked with a ohm meter and a chart to tell you what they should read at what temperature. They have charts like that in the Ford manuals I had for my 97 Ranger.
You need some good books and a good OBD-II scanner capable of monitoring engine parameters. A scanner can tell you by just turning the key to ON at what values your sensors are.
Temperature sensors can be checked with a ohm meter and a chart to tell you what they should read at what temperature. They have charts like that in the Ford manuals I had for my 97 Ranger.
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 380
Likes: 21
From: Las Vegas
Thanks, wptski.
I don't think I want to tackle it, then. You're right in suggesting doing a proper diagnostic check, and I'm not the guy to do it.
I'm not a big fan of the local Ford dealership, but I guess I gotta bite the bullet.
I don't think I want to tackle it, then. You're right in suggesting doing a proper diagnostic check, and I'm not the guy to do it.
I'm not a big fan of the local Ford dealership, but I guess I gotta bite the bullet.
Posting Guru
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 1,534
Likes: 2
From: Warren, MI
If it was the IAC itself, you probably get a CEL/SEL. It's only two screws and a connector but it'll cost you $100 to guess at it. It's pulse modulated operated so you just can't put 12V across it to test it.
My AutoXray scanner doesn't cover 09 yet but it worked on my Escape but only showed 37 PIDs but not a IAC. A 07 Ford Taurus shows 90 PIDs.
My AutoXray scanner doesn't cover 09 yet but it worked on my Escape but only showed 37 PIDs but not a IAC. A 07 Ford Taurus shows 90 PIDs.
Junior User
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 75
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I have had 3 idle air controls go bad, 98 V6 F150, 96 302 F150, 01 V6 escape. None of them caused a check engine code to appear. They all would not cold start but you could usually get them to run by stepping on accelerator till engine warmed up. Textbook symptom, $65.00- $78.00 for new unit. Cleaning can help in short term but they usually end up needing replaced.
Posting Guru
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 1,534
Likes: 2
From: Warren, MI
Don't you find that odd that you've replaced so many IACs? I do! Do you know anybody else that has replaced as many as you? If cleaning helps this sounds like you have a unique dirty air problem. I have heard of the port from the IAC to the post-throttle port plugging up.
I've never replaced the one on my 97 Ranger 4.0L.
As far as the CEL goes, normally it takes three pending codes to generate a CEL. Once driven they would clear themselves.
You haven't played with the throttle return control screw?
I've never replaced the one on my 97 Ranger 4.0L.
As far as the CEL goes, normally it takes three pending codes to generate a CEL. Once driven they would clear themselves.
You haven't played with the throttle return control screw?
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Junior User
Joined: Apr 2007
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do a search of this forum, will find many bad idle air control valves, Ford had a big problem up until about 2003/04. I think they got the problem corrected. My wifes 05 Duratec V6 doesn't use idle air any more. I think Ford uses MAF and other controls for idle control now.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 1,534
Likes: 2
From: Warren, MI
I did the search for IAC. Yes, lots of posts but many just want to clean theirs just for the sake of cleaning them. Some pull the connector and the idle doesn't change or engine doesn't die, so they have other problems. I got bored reading them after a while.
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 380
Likes: 21
From: Las Vegas
Well, the latest:
For the last 3 days, I have been able to get it to idle by starting it, blipping the throttle for a few seconds, and then it settles down to a normal idle. It still would die on the initial start if I didn't rev it until it stabilizes.
So it continues to exhibit the symptoms, but they are milder.
Since I have no diagnostic tools and most folks seem to say there is no code generated anyway, I guess I will rummage around under the hood and see if I can clean it and have the problem go away.
If it does, then I will know how to replace it with a new one when it reoccurs.
If it doesn't go away, then I guess it's a trip to the Ford dealer. Yuk.
For the last 3 days, I have been able to get it to idle by starting it, blipping the throttle for a few seconds, and then it settles down to a normal idle. It still would die on the initial start if I didn't rev it until it stabilizes.
So it continues to exhibit the symptoms, but they are milder.
Since I have no diagnostic tools and most folks seem to say there is no code generated anyway, I guess I will rummage around under the hood and see if I can clean it and have the problem go away.
If it does, then I will know how to replace it with a new one when it reoccurs.
If it doesn't go away, then I guess it's a trip to the Ford dealer. Yuk.
Tuned
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 421
Likes: 0
do a search of this forum, will find many bad idle air control valves, Ford had a big problem up until about 2003/04. I think they got the problem corrected. My wifes 05 Duratec V6 doesn't use idle air any more. I think Ford uses MAF and other controls for idle control now.
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 287
Likes: 1
From: SE WI
Might also be time to check some of the basics. How are your vacuum lines? After a while they do break down and leak, and can cause similar problems. I recently replaced the vacuum lines on my '96 Sable (Duratec engine) and the improvement was great. It now starts and idles in the winter, without feathering the gas pedal to get it to run.
