140v Idm... `
#1
140v Idm... `
Ah what a resistor here and there can do.
I did this mod last night, and it was really rather easy.
three 8mm bolts hold the module to the panel, and one 10 mm bolt holds the connector into the module. takes ten min to pull.
take it in the shop, cut away extra factory silicone, pops open with a flat screwdriver. there are three small screws on the end away from the connector, and six long ones- going through components- on the end by the connector... make sure you get them all.
then pop it out... easy as pie. For the next part, it helps that i have an electrical engineer where i work. he put a low heat soldering iron on each side of the resistor, and i popped it off. using a regular soldering iron, i put the new one on. ( yes i know, supposed to use low heat, but i just re-soldered fast, to no ill effect) and twenty min. after i took it off, it was getting silicone and going back on.
the truck started faster, but i didnt notice a huge difference until it was warm. once it was warm, Wow... it picks up faster, builds boost faster... raises egt's faster... lol. the EGT needle basically jumps to 1000, then creeps past 1200. i did my normal mod test of uphill full throttle in 3rd.
Max i saw was 23 lbs of boost and 1350 EGTs... and it took a long time to get that hot.
My downpipe should be here today or tomorrow, and then my 5" "sidewalk smoker" will be on... I'll let you guys know how it goes.
I've been bitten by the PMS bug bad...
Saving for a tranny, then sticks, then turbo then..... you get the idea.
I did this mod last night, and it was really rather easy.
three 8mm bolts hold the module to the panel, and one 10 mm bolt holds the connector into the module. takes ten min to pull.
take it in the shop, cut away extra factory silicone, pops open with a flat screwdriver. there are three small screws on the end away from the connector, and six long ones- going through components- on the end by the connector... make sure you get them all.
then pop it out... easy as pie. For the next part, it helps that i have an electrical engineer where i work. he put a low heat soldering iron on each side of the resistor, and i popped it off. using a regular soldering iron, i put the new one on. ( yes i know, supposed to use low heat, but i just re-soldered fast, to no ill effect) and twenty min. after i took it off, it was getting silicone and going back on.
the truck started faster, but i didnt notice a huge difference until it was warm. once it was warm, Wow... it picks up faster, builds boost faster... raises egt's faster... lol. the EGT needle basically jumps to 1000, then creeps past 1200. i did my normal mod test of uphill full throttle in 3rd.
Max i saw was 23 lbs of boost and 1350 EGTs... and it took a long time to get that hot.
My downpipe should be here today or tomorrow, and then my 5" "sidewalk smoker" will be on... I'll let you guys know how it goes.
I've been bitten by the PMS bug bad...
Saving for a tranny, then sticks, then turbo then..... you get the idea.
#7
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#10
#11
It really wasnt too difficult. The board is Conformally(sp?) coated, thick. it'll absorb more heat than i'm willing to put in. Still, not for the faint of heart, but i wouldnt pay for one.
yes you risk damaging the board, and you risk extra wear on your injector solenoids, but i havent heard of the latter.
yes you risk damaging the board, and you risk extra wear on your injector solenoids, but i havent heard of the latter.
#12
if you could email me detailed pics and instructions at cowmilker08@yahoo.com i would greatly appreciate it. how much does it help anyway?