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Old Nov 20, 2008 | 05:54 PM
  #1  
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Ecm

I traded for a 91 Bronco with a 5.0, it will not start with out a shot of fuel into the air box. After it starts it will run good, and will start right back up if warm. I have not really worked on anything this new, I am used to working on the older cars & trucks. It feels like it is in high gear when you put it in drive and will hardly move, it will take off if put in low but will not shift after putting it back in drive. I took it to AutoZone and they told me it does not even read the computer at all. The ECM is a F1TB-7E453-AA . Will any other ones work, like one from a F-150? Or is that the only one that will work.
 
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Old Nov 20, 2008 | 06:03 PM
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Yes, if the F150/250/350 has the same engine/ transmittion.
 
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Old Nov 20, 2008 | 11:57 PM
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Failure rate of the ECM is exceedingly rare. I've been discussing the "Autozone response" to getting codes pulled by their employees in another thread. I would suggest pulling them yourself. It isn't a difficult process. Its a blatant LIE to tell you the on-board computer isn't even recognized for the simple fact that you can get the truck to start! If the ECM is shot, the engine has no control. Period. Now the possibility exists that the ECM is running in "limp mode" which limits the amount of control the computer has over the engine and transmission. The symptoms you have described would tell me that this could be the case. In your particular situation you could well be dealing with an E4OD automatic which doesn't respond well at all when the ECM runs in limp mode since it is a fully electronic controlled transmission.

If the computer goes into limp mode, there has been some critical fault that causes it. Resetting the ECM should clear any fault codes and allow it to run normally again unless the issue is an intermittent power loss to the ECM. Again, an unlikely but possible scenario.
 
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Old Nov 21, 2008 | 12:18 PM
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Thanks for the info. greystreak92 I pulled it and took the cover off, it looks like some of it got hot to me. But like I said I have not really messed around with this stuff. I will try and post a pic of it.

Bill
 

Last edited by B-2; Nov 21, 2008 at 12:22 PM. Reason: picture
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Old Nov 21, 2008 | 12:26 PM
  #5  
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Well I have not figured out how to post pic's from photobucket yet. I will try and get it later. Bill
 
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Old Nov 21, 2008 | 05:58 PM
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E4od

Didnt the E4OD start in 92? Maybe the 91 has the AOD which would not be PCM controlled. Probably limp home mode from something else. Tell you what cased limp home on my 93 (yea its different and w/E4OD), it was the fuel pressure regulator---kinda round about way .

The vacuum line to the regulator decreases fuel pressure when demand is low (manifold vacuum high). I have to disconnect and plug the vacuum line to the regulator. Apparently, the regulator (or the fuel pump) does not supply fuel at high vacuum and that causes limp home. It runs fine without the vacuum line, but I know my days are numbered, probably catch me on the interstate during rush hour traffic.

Just something for you to maybe look at
 
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Old Nov 22, 2008 | 12:32 AM
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Depended upon when it was made but some 91's have E4OD's in them.
 
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Old Nov 23, 2008 | 08:50 PM
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How do I tell which trans I have in it, I know about the older one's C-4,C-5, C-6 & FMX I even know what a Dagenham is. I guess I am telling my age here, but I have just never worked on this new stuff. Will they still have a vacuum modulator valve or do they still use them, I can't seem to find one.
Thanks Bill
 
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Old Nov 23, 2008 | 11:41 PM
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The AOD preceded the E4OD and used a throttle valve cable assembly (from the throttle body to a shift linkage on the tranny) to regulate shifting so no vacuum regulator there. The AOD is a derivative of the old C-4 with some obvious changes. The E4OD is completely electronic hence the "E" in the designation and again, no vacuum. The E4OD has a positioning sensor attached to the linkage against the left side of the casing that basically tells the computer which gear the thing is in - "P R N D 2 1". The computer and the transmission take it from there. The E4OD is a monster of a transmission. Its only too bad its service record isn't as stout as its appearance.

In short, you can look for the TV (Throttle Valve) cable or the MLPS (Manual Lever Position Sensor) to determine which unit is in your truck. There are other ways but these are the most readily visible differences.
 
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Old Nov 24, 2008 | 09:20 AM
  #10  
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E4od/aod

The E40D has a noticeable larger pan than the C4/C6/AOD/AODE. The pan is looong, it covers from the bell (one piece case) all the way to the rear X-member. It is also wider. The very bottom has several "contours" on it, including a very noticeable ~3" sump in the very lowest part----makes a good place to put a drain plug. (I put a plug on the "side" of this sump, so it would not be exposed to hitting anything you cross over). You cannot set the E4OD down on its pan (when its on the workbench) and have it sit flat because of the contours on it----very noticeable. BTW, I put a Baumann shift kit in mine---has done very well. Dosnt take your head off on a shift. Actually could be a little tighter for full throttle.

The AOD (I am pretty sure the AODE/4R70W are very similar) is about the size of the C4/C6/FMX even though those are really different trannys. Been a while on the AOD, but the pan is flat on the bottom and has "METRIC" embossed in big letters across the bottom of it. I have rebuilt them an numerous shift kits.

As Greystreak said, the AOD is an evolved C4, although I am not sure if any components interchange between the two. Bet someone on here does know the planetaries, from a 4R70W into the AOD will give ~2.84 low from the AOD 2.42. 2nd gears is also changed a corresponding amount on both the E4OD and AOD.

The E4OD is an evolved C6 and a lower planetary gearset for the C6 is actually an E4OD part. Used to be available from the SVO catalog----a meer ~$600.00 (practically give them away ) Gives a ~2.72 low from a 2.42 low of the C6. I did that kit in a C6 on my old van.

Neither the E4OD or AOD had great reputations, dont know about the later versions of either. I did the shift kit first, then later (way later) after the OEM converter went through the well known slip/superheat oil routine I replaced the converter. I like my E4OD and am extremely PiZZed that it wasnt available much earlier---my 460 van, for example. I still drive the 93 bronce and the tranny is still very good------rest of it clanks and rattles, but the tranny is good. For that matter, so is the 351 (scuse me, the 5.8 ). Now dont hold me to exact figures here, I dont claim to be an expert but I have "got er done" several times .
 
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Old Nov 24, 2008 | 01:51 PM
  #11  
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Well it seems like I have a E40D the pan is really long and it has what looks like a sensor attached to the linkage. It also has the word Metric on the pan. I am going to take it down and have the ECM reset today. Autozone tells me they only go back as far as 1998 on checking the ECM. But I found a shop that said he would reset it for me for FREE. So I guess I will go from there and let you know what happens. Thanks Guys for the info. B-2
 
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Old Nov 24, 2008 | 02:36 PM
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Pulling the codes resets the ECM memory and disconnecting the battery for about 5-10 minutes will do a hard reset on it. I mean you can have someone do it for you but it seems unnecessary.
 
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Old Nov 24, 2008 | 02:56 PM
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Mlps

Greystreak mentioned in his previous post about the MLPS on the side of the tranny at the selection lever. Inside, it is a series of resistors that the PCM looks at to determine what gear the driver wants to be in (after all, the driver selects the gears!). Those can go bad and well cause the problems you have independant of the ECM (PCM--Powertrain control module-ford just needed another acronym). One of these days, I am going to pop one of those things open just to see what happens to them and if they can be repaired easily (read that to mean cheep!)

Greystreak has you on the right track, I just throw in $.02 once in a while--
 
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Old Nov 24, 2008 | 09:37 PM
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I couldn't agree more. The idea of cracking one open and taking a meter to the internals would make repairing dead resistors within the MLPS possible assuming opening the unit wouldn't trash it. Great idea!
 
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Old Nov 24, 2008 | 09:58 PM
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First thing "next" Monday!! I have a funny feeling that moisture gets into the things and the contacts gum up/corrode, which will prob causes a skewed resistance reading at each point or even a solid short. I think drilling out the rivets will be simple-----Cant be any more complicated than a valve body---. Think I have an old one, and now my curiosity is really up
 
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