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I do not gauge the torque of the nut, as with any differential with a crush collar. I check for the preload or "drag" felt when turning the yoke. I move it just enough to feel the backlash and not turn the ring gear. You can read the preload on the bearings with an inch-pound torque wrench while turning the pinion and adjusting it to specs for new or used bearings. I do use a torque wrench. I have used the "feel method " for 28 yrs in the auto, offroad, and OTR truck mechanic field.
I do not gauge the torque of the nut, as with any differential with a crush collar. I check for the preload or "drag" felt when turning the yoke. I move it just enough to feel the backlash and not turn the ring gear. You can read the preload on the bearings with an inch-pound torque wrench while turning the pinion and adjusting it to specs for new or used bearings. I do use a torque wrench. I have used the "feel method " for 28 yrs in the auto, offroad, and OTR truck mechanic field.
I see so it really is more of a feel method. Well I thought about replacing the seal again but I had no idea where to retorque the nut too. Guess I will just have to have somebody that has the correct "hand" do it.
I see so it really is more of a feel method. Well I thought about replacing the seal again but I had no idea where to retorque the nut too. Guess I will just have to have somebody that has the correct "hand" do it.
Wish I could lend you mine LOL, but I'm alittle too far away. Good luck in getting that leak fixed. Don't let it go.
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