?????? I was wondering if the switch to synthetic on my 302 with 55,xxx miles on the rebuild would be worth it. If i were to do this switch what worth is there in it for me, and which is the least expensive that still has some quality. Because currently i am running Castrol GTX Superior Slude 10w-30. and its costing me about 2.99 a quart. and every month i have to buy a quart due to my oil pan gasket leaking. sooooo....

1. Whats in it for me?

2. Whats the least expensive synthetic that has some good quality?

 

Synthetic advantages are unreal, although you have a major drawback to synthetics-YOUR OIL LEAK!!!!! If you addd that much, I would not use synthetic. What I would use is H.M.V.(high mileage vehcle).
Syn facts:
-better lubricity for engine parts.
-easier cold weather starts
-increased engine life
-increased fuel economy
Myths
-it is not 100% man made or even close, they use petroleum base stock for formulation
H.M.V. facts
-different emulsifiers for cleaning older engines
-different tactifiers for bonding to older engine parts
-can reduce oil seapage due to worn gaskets
-can reduce oil burn off
Overall if I were you I would use a H.M.V. oil. I use Shell HMV(red bottles) in my 1992 f150 4x4 155000mi, 1984 GT mustang and my 1994 honda
other manufacturer's- Pennzoil, Quakerstate, Castrol are all great brands

 

"Pennzoil, Quakerstate, Castrol are all great brands"?
...uhh, what about Valvoline HMV? I used that stuff religiously in my old Accord that I just sold

 

If your engine leaks with dino oil, it will leak more and cost more with synthetic. Get the leak fixed before you buy syn.

Wally World sells a decent syn from what the guys have posted on this site. It comes in I think 5qt jugs and isdown around $3-$4 per quart. Once in awhile you will see other brand 5qt jugs for sale cheap.

I haven't seen it since I moved away from Oregon, but Havoline used to sell a decent syn that was about $1 less than the rest.

Synthetic has legally become a name game. True synthetics are harder to find and often the websites won't really tell you what it is. I think(and could be WRONG) that Mobile 1, Amsoil and Royal Purple are true syns. The rest are highly processed dino oils. Technically the performance and characteristics are about the same as real syn. My problem is paying real syn prices for clean dino oil. If I am going to get shafted on $$ at least give me the real thing.

BTW, I have read that Motorcraft 5W20 and similar oils are semisynthetic and pretty good. There are a lot of really good dino oils out there too.

I like syn but the engine needs to be relatively leak free and in decent condition before you use it, otherwise it just drips out.

Good Luck,

Jim Henderson

 

buy whatever is on sale at auto store then when leak is fixed think about a syn till then stick with API SM oils on sale

 

ok i still havent gotten to change the oil yet. but i have to next week. Its been 5,000 miles since last done. Now im not gonna use synthetics until i fix the oil pan gasket (no time to do it.) But i will go with a high mileage to help the motor out. Now which weight and viscosity should i go with to help with cold starts? and Which brand? <i know everyone will say it dont matter i just want to hear previous experiences.

 

I think 5w or 10w30 would be fine. And Valvoline MaxLife is a very good HM oil. I believe
$17 for a 5qt jug at WM.

 

well i was wondering if i should switch from 10w30 to 5w30 wont that help with cold weather starts??? not real sure never understood oil weights and stuff

 

Yes, 5w has better cold flow properties than 10w30. Then at operating temps they are about the same viscosity. I would use either with confidence. If you want you could use 5w30 in the winter and 10w30 other times if it makes you feel better.

 

It depends upon the lowest temperatures you experience. TN is not that cold. SAE J-300 is the viscosity spec and the "W" rating is very confusing. 5W is recommended down to -30C and 10W down to -25C.

Read about it here,

API Engine Oil Classifications For Service Fill Oils - SAE Viscosity Grades For Engine Oils

Jim

 

Tn does get pretty cold in the dead cold of winter during the coldest times it gets consistantly down to 5 degrees for a low for weeks straight.

 

Add Royal Purple to the list of highly processed dino oils. I use Mobil 1 0W40, in my research I find it to be a vary high quality oil for a resonable price. I don't see any use in a cold viscosity any higher then 0 and use 40 because I have some hot idle oil pressure problems.

 

15W is good down to +4F, so 5W is no big advantage to you over 10W. I used 15W-40 Chevron Delo 400 in the F-150 and the BMW. It gets no colder than about +10F here and that is rare.

Jim

 

Ok, well thanks for all of yalls help. Im thinking im gonna do like azfordf100man mentioned and use 5w in the winter and 10w in the warmer times of the year. So now anyone got any opinions on which oil is better. Oh no i just opened a huge can of worms by asking that question but i would still like to know.

 

Just switched to syn in my 89 f250 460 4x4. Truck only has 90k and runs great. Where I'm at in Wy winters are brutal, -40 is common here. I switched to 5w-30 syn to help protect a good engine that I want to last from everyday wear and those stupid temps. I use a heater in the winter as well.
As for cost, yes it's more but when you look at what you have into your truck the cost of an oil change seems like pretty cheap insurance to me.