<table id="post9020031" class="tborder" width="100%" align="center" border="0" cellpadding="6" cellspacing="0"><tbody><tr valign="top"><td class="alt1" id="td_post_9020031" style="border-right: 1px solid rgb(204, 204, 204);"> I'm talking to guy about a rear 60 to match my front 79 hp 60 which is a little over 69". He told me his rear 60 is from a SRW 78 f250 camper special and that the width is 63.75". That sounds pretty narrow to me. He also says it's FF but the drums are behind the hubs, not slide on. I'm a little in the dark about this as well. Any Idea what axle he may actually have? Is this a dually axle?

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dually axles were only on F350 chassis cabs.

 

I thought so but I was wondering if he is mistaken about what truck it came out of. Just sounds like a weird width to me.

 

Depends on what to where he is measuring, outside of perch to outside of perch, center to center,,,,, I would imagine ya'll are measurin the same axle, just in different spots..

 

Maybe, I was thinking WMS to WMS. The way he described the drum behind the hubs makes me think DRW though.

 

Full floater axle's seldom have slide on drums, in fact, they never did. It was not until the Sterling 10.25 axle that the wheel lugs did not press the hub and drum together.
The dana axle will have to have the axle removed, as well as the hub removed from the spindle to remove the drum.

Also, why the desire for a matching rear Dana 60 anyway? The dana rear has rather weak shafts, and unless they are upgraded, are not as strong as the 60 front.

 

Thanks I realized what your talking about ( drums)after I went outside and looked at the 70 sitting in my back yard. I was thinking the drum slid over the hub.
I'm putting these axles in a Jeep running a 4.0l and probably 38.5" tires. I'll bore out the spindles and upgrade the shafts to 35 spline alloys while I'm building it. I would think twice if this was going into a full size truck but my junk weighs around 4400 lbs.

 

Thats cool, I too went the route of boring spindles and using D70 shafts, and I continued to break shafts. Only busted one ring and pinion, but two shafts. Cool deal though. Hope that works out for you.
How are you planning on boring the spindles?

 

A machine shop the next town over has a big *** lathe that can do it for $80. Also a guy that does axle work near me is thinking of buying a boring tool. If he does I'll get him to do it. I also thought of cutting the spindles of of this 70 I have, that is if I doesn't sell.

 

Cutting the spindles and re-welding them in requires a large boring bar and a stout set up to keep everything straight. Obviously can be done though. Heak for 80 bucks, having them bored is a decent solution. I run mine in a fill size, and it is loaded pretty heavy quite often, and sees its share of reasonable speed air time. I have not had a problem with bored spindles, but I cant seem to keep stock D70 shafts in it.
A lighter vehicle could very well hold up to this modification.

 

Thanks for the info on the spindles. I'll definitely have them bored. Should be a pretty stout set up for a Jeep, especially that front 60 with 35 spline outers. Been looking for one for a while reasonably priced and finally picked one up for $500. I see them quite a bit for $1000-$1400 but no way I was going there.