77 F150 leaf spring conversion
Senior User
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 184
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With all due respect, with the time and effort in doing all of this, an F250 front axle with 4.10's really isnt worth the whole leaf-spring swap. Im certain the 4.10 gears and carrier assembly will swap out of the front D44's (i just did it in my 78' this summer) as for the rear, check out completeoffroad.com and get a set of rear gears for $150, plus another $80 for the install kit that gives you ALL NEW BEARINGS, SEALS, AND SHIMS. That way you can keep both axles, all the wheels, the steering and less headaches. I did the exact same thing with my front-end. Got a set of 4.10 gears out of a 75' mud buggy and just got an install kit and did the front and back of my truck in a weekend and for less than $300 total. While I was in there I replaced all the seals and bearings (real cheap and worth the effort), and the axle u-joints.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 791
Likes: 62
From: Backwoods of western Pa
With all due respect, with the time and effort in doing all of this, an F250 front axle with 4.10's really isnt worth the whole leaf-spring swap. Im certain the 4.10 gears and carrier assembly will swap out of the front D44's (i just did it in my 78' this summer) as for the rear, check out completeoffroad.com and get a set of rear gears for $150, plus another $80 for the install kit that gives you ALL NEW BEARINGS, SEALS, AND SHIMS. That way you can keep both axles, all the wheels, the steering and less headaches. I did the exact same thing with my front-end. Got a set of 4.10 gears out of a 75' mud buggy and just got an install kit and did the front and back of my truck in a weekend and for less than $300 total. While I was in there I replaced all the seals and bearings (real cheap and worth the effort), and the axle u-joints.
Just as an update, I placed an order last night at Jeff's Bronco Graveyard for a replacement coil spring cup, new radius arm bushings and C-bushings (bad anyways), new shocks (rears were too short when I bought the truck). I even splurged on a new set of 2" lift springs to better clear the 36's.
I plan to start tearing into it this weekend. First on the list is to swap out the NP203 that it currently has (got a 205 for free). Then I'll get the gears and spindles swapped into the front, and finish up next week with the D60 swap in the rear. Can't wait.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 791
Likes: 62
From: Backwoods of western Pa
I really wanted a 3/4 ton in the first place, but I couldn't find a decent one for cheap. Found a 150 for cheap, had a pile of 3/4 ton parts, and since the 150 was broke anyway, I figured I'd build my own 3/4 ton. When this first started I thought it would be an easy swap, but soon realized it was more involved than I thought. Thanks to the helpful people on here, however, I think I have a good plan to build a "hybrid" 3/4 ton with coil spring front suspension.
Hair-brained ideas? I have tons of them. Not all of 'em are good, but the fun is in the challenge mostly. Trucks are my addiction... if I didn't have something to work on or tweak, I would probably go insane. Not far from it right now...
P.S. Speaking of hair-brained ideas, I saw in your gallery that you have a '78 Crew cab on a 52 GMC 6X6 frame... never thought of doing that before, but totally freakin' cool...
Senior User
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 184
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With my own personal experience, a cheap truck is cheap for a reason, there is always something wrong with them. An 8-lug conversion on the front would be cool, and you can upgrade your brakes as well. I compared my 9" axles with my buddies D60 full floater axles, and the D60's were pinners compared to the 9" axles. I would take the 9" over the 60 in a heartbeat. But I wish you luck in your build, and when you put the front brake bracket on and the spindle and yadda yadda, never sneeze the hell out of the contact surfaces, because you never know when you are going to tear it apart again for more upgrades!!
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 791
Likes: 62
From: Backwoods of western Pa
With my own personal experience, a cheap truck is cheap for a reason, there is always something wrong with them. An 8-lug conversion on the front would be cool, and you can upgrade your brakes as well. I compared my 9" axles with my buddies D60 full floater axles, and the D60's were pinners compared to the 9" axles. I would take the 9" over the 60 in a heartbeat. But I wish you luck in your build, and when you put the front brake bracket on and the spindle and yadda yadda, never sneeze the hell out of the contact surfaces, because you never know when you are going to tear it apart again for more upgrades!!
And you brought up another big reason for this swap that I completely forgot to mention in this thread. The brakes are downright scary on this thing right now. Everything is new, (calipers, pads, rotors, wheel cylinders, shoes), but they just simply aren't strong enough to stop the 35's in a reasonable fashion. The larger brakes are a definate bonus, and I hope it's a little safer in the process. I am used to driving my 05 F150, which will howl the 35x13 Nittos at will, so this thing is a serious step back compared to that. I know it will never be as good as the 05, but an improvement is still needed.
Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,628
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From: Northeast Nebraska
Free + free doesnt equal cheap. The 6x6 was someone elses hair brained idea. I just thought it would be cool to have and the price was right. If you are gonna do something goofy, might as well go all out. Personally I think swaping axle parts is a lot of work just to get some tires and wheels to fit. You arent gaining any streangth and it will be interesting to see how all that works out for ya and if you really save any money. You know there will be some surprises for ya like the axle shafts are different lengths right? As for gaining stopping power....get a hydroboost setup.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 791
Likes: 62
From: Backwoods of western Pa
Free + free doesnt equal cheap. The 6x6 was someone elses hair brained idea. I just thought it would be cool to have and the price was right. If you are gonna do something goofy, might as well go all out. Personally I think swaping axle parts is a lot of work just to get some tires and wheels to fit. You arent gaining any streangth and it will be interesting to see how all that works out for ya and if you really save any money. You know there will be some surprises for ya like the axle shafts are different lengths right? As for gaining stopping power....get a hydroboost setup.
As far as the hydroboost setup, I know nothing about that. I just figured I'd use the parts that I already have...
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Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,628
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From: Northeast Nebraska
Way back when I first got my Red 79 F-150 4x4 it had a bad front axle u-joint. I also happened to have a 79 F-250 4x4 for parts. Both 79's both D44's. I figured why go through the hassle of pounding out a ujoint when I could rob the whole axle shaft u-joint and all out of the parts truck. Sure enough after goin through all that work one shaft was longer than the other. I dont remember if it was the outer, inner or both shafts. In the end I had to get a new u-joint and do it the right way. Ive tried to go cheap enough times that Ive learned my lesson. Ask Bill (NumberDummy) if the part numbers are the same.
Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,628
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From: Northeast Nebraska
Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,628
Likes: 0
From: Northeast Nebraska
Hey 141, if you havent read it yet, get a load of this thread that just started:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...8-lug-d44.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...8-lug-d44.html
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 791
Likes: 62
From: Backwoods of western Pa
Hey, thanks for the links FTKGM. That second one is very interesting, that is the second time I have seen a coil-spring 8-lug conversion. I mentioned earlier in the thread that I had seen it done before. That particular truck was a 78 F150 that a guy had bought with the 8-lug conversion already completed. I sold a bed to the guy and he showed me the truck when I delivered it to him. It had a coil spring front with 8-bolt spindles, D60 rear.
This has me thinking... Since you said above that you had the 3/4 ton shaft that you tried to fit in a 1/2 ton housing, I wonder if the inner shaft is the same, but the outer shaft is different? You know, maybe the 1/2 ton outer shaft is made to fit the 1/2 ton spindle, but all the inners are the same? If this is the case, then I should be able to use the 3/4 ton axle shafts along with the 3/4 ton spindles, and put it all in the 1/2 ton housing... If this doesn't work, I may have to buy the weld-on wedges... trying to avoid the extra $89 expense for the wedges.
Numberdummy, if you see this thread, can you look up the part number for a 77 F150 inner axleshaft and a 78 F250 inner axleshaft?
This has me thinking... Since you said above that you had the 3/4 ton shaft that you tried to fit in a 1/2 ton housing, I wonder if the inner shaft is the same, but the outer shaft is different? You know, maybe the 1/2 ton outer shaft is made to fit the 1/2 ton spindle, but all the inners are the same? If this is the case, then I should be able to use the 3/4 ton axle shafts along with the 3/4 ton spindles, and put it all in the 1/2 ton housing... If this doesn't work, I may have to buy the weld-on wedges... trying to avoid the extra $89 expense for the wedges.
Numberdummy, if you see this thread, can you look up the part number for a 77 F150 inner axleshaft and a 78 F250 inner axleshaft?
Logistics Pro
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 4,701
Likes: 6
I have built this exact truck.
By far, the simplest way is to use the 150 axle housing, shafts, and knuckles. From the spindles out, take the 8 lug stuff off and swap it. The locking hubs are the same.
I built mine from a 74 2wd F250, and used that booster with the stock 8 lug dual piston calipers. Believe me, it stops.
If you have any questions, feel free to ask. It sounds like you are building a replica of mine.
By far, the simplest way is to use the 150 axle housing, shafts, and knuckles. From the spindles out, take the 8 lug stuff off and swap it. The locking hubs are the same.
I built mine from a 74 2wd F250, and used that booster with the stock 8 lug dual piston calipers. Believe me, it stops.
If you have any questions, feel free to ask. It sounds like you are building a replica of mine.
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 791
Likes: 62
From: Backwoods of western Pa
I have built this exact truck.
By far, the simplest way is to use the 150 axle housing, shafts, and knuckles. From the spindles out, take the 8 lug stuff off and swap it. The locking hubs are the same.
I built mine from a 74 2wd F250, and used that booster with the stock 8 lug dual piston calipers. Believe me, it stops.
If you have any questions, feel free to ask. It sounds like you are building a replica of mine.
By far, the simplest way is to use the 150 axle housing, shafts, and knuckles. From the spindles out, take the 8 lug stuff off and swap it. The locking hubs are the same.
I built mine from a 74 2wd F250, and used that booster with the stock 8 lug dual piston calipers. Believe me, it stops.
If you have any questions, feel free to ask. It sounds like you are building a replica of mine.
I love your truck btw, the look and stance is perfect. Are those Goodyear Wrangler military tires? If so, that is the exact setup that I will be running. My buddy gave me a set of new ones because he didn't like how they drove on the road. How much lift do you think you have over a stock 150 4x4?
Logistics Pro
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 4,701
Likes: 6
No. You need the 8 lug spindles out. Spindles, calipers and brackets, and hubs.
I am running rancho 3" coils for and F150. I love the tires. They are cheap and hardly wear. They don't ride like radials, though
I am running rancho 3" coils for and F150. I love the tires. They are cheap and hardly wear. They don't ride like radials, though