Choke not pulling off
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You should check the voltage when it first starts, and then check it again after it runs for a few minutes to see if it changes. The reason for this is because the electric heating element in the choke is a positive temperature coefficient (PTC) heating element - meaning that it presents a very low resistance and draws a lot of current at first which will make the voltage read very close to zero. As the element heats up, its resistance increases until it approaches open-circuit, at which point the voltage will return to 6-7 V RMS. If the choke power reads 6-7 V RMS when disconnected (normal) but stays at zero after you connect it and leave it running for a few minutes, then it's possible that your choke cap is bad. In that case it might be shorting to ground.
The stuff to pay attention to in the article is the choke cap index part because it shows you how to adjust how long it takes the choke to open up. If you're not having any problems with the idle kicking down then you can probably skip over the fast idle stuff, but if your choke never opens then I'd imagine your idle never kicks down, so you won't know if that's good until you get your choke to open.
The stuff to pay attention to in the article is the choke cap index part because it shows you how to adjust how long it takes the choke to open up. If you're not having any problems with the idle kicking down then you can probably skip over the fast idle stuff, but if your choke never opens then I'd imagine your idle never kicks down, so you won't know if that's good until you get your choke to open.
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Heesman
1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
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Sep 5, 2014 03:00 PM
