Installed a new ICP sensor today. Took me 1.5 hours from start to finish. Removing and installing the heat shield (three bolts) took the most time. Took 5 minutes to remove old ICP and install the new ICP. I had the use of a lift and the Snap-On ICP socket ($32). Both proved to significantly reduce the remove/install time.

My primary sympton for suspecting the ICP was minor erratic surging on the highway for the past three weeks. It may not surge during a trip or it may surge 2 or 3 times during a trip. By surging I mean it would take off without me pushing on the go pedal. Yesterday I was pulling my empty 6 X 12 dump trailer to break in the disc brakes I just installed and I had big time hesitation problems. It would not go when I hit the go pedal. So when I got home I hooked up the code reader and sure enough there was the p2285 ICP code. Went to the dealer today and left $150 poorer. But the X is running a lot better. I'm going to take the bad ICP apart and see if I can determine why it failed. Will provide info in future post.

4X4 owners: I found it extremely helpful to remove the front drive shaft from the differential and hang it from the front sway bar shackle. I just used tie wraps to hold it. It allowed me to get my arm over the bell housing to get to the passenger side heat shield bolt. Getting to that bolt from the passenger side of the tranny is just about impossible.

DSMMH

 

When my ICP was done, they did it from on top of the motor

 

There was no way I was going to pull the turbo just to remove 3 bolts and change a sensor that I could see from under the X. Of course with a lift, it does make it easy from the bottom. It was an easier job doing it from the bottom then I anticipated. If I had no access to a lift, then I probably would have pulled the turbo.

DSMMH

 

Are you saying the dealer installed a new ICP with labor for $150.?

 

No. That's the retail cost of an ICP sensor from a dealer. I got mine off eBay for $50.

 

I just brought my cousins 04 f350 in for and ICP code and they told him it was 3 weeks out of warrenty because the orginal owner bought it at the end of 03 so his 5 years were up in oct. 08... Realls sux seeing he was in an ATV accident, ended up with a fractured nect, and broken back in 3 spots. He is going good and walking, but the truck has sat for over three weeks and they would not help. It was just over $500.00 for the ICP and replacement, with "proper FORD testing" Of course

 

They do it without pulling the turbo or removing any heat shields from above

 

Well for changing it from above without removing the turbo or heat shield for $500 they must be charging $250 an hour. It might be cheaper to get a lawyer to change it. Either way its robbery.

 

I would like to see that trick but I would not want to pay for the time to do it! No matter how you go about replacing the ICP, some interference has to be removed: turbo, airfilter, degas bottle, intake manifold, etc. I chose what I thought was the path of least resistance...........to remove 3 bolts and the heatshield from the bottom.

Also, my X only has 73,000 miles on it and the warranty would have covered replacing the ICP sensor. However, the hassle with the dealer over my tuner, the time I loose with my truck sitting at the dealer, the risk of updating the flash if I don't want it and potential for a poor quality job lead me to incur the cost and do the job myself.

I was going to try to get one off Ebay but I saw different part numbers and was not sure which one was the correct replacement. Also, my X was getting unsafe to drive so urgency became a priority. When I stepped on the GO pedal it would not go. On coming traffic does not like that! After replacing the ICP, NO GO is no longer a problem.

One more sympton I forgot to mention in my previous reply. The motor use to "hunt" (RPM varies up and down) before I replaced the ICP sensor. When I first started it from as cold start, it would "hunt" until the oil pressure gauge read normal. When I started it this morning, no "hunting".

DSMMH

 

Thanks to all that posted their lessons learned on the R/R of the ICP. It was not the easiest job but this forum really helped. The ICP came out and went back in with no problem using the cut down 1 1/16 socket, the only problem I had was putting the connector back on. After messing with it for an hour or so I decided to take the heat shield off and connected it from the bottom. Once again thanks to all that made this job alot easier!
BTW I am willing to lend the socket out if you need it!

 

Post some pictures of the socket so others may be able to make one.

 

here it is......its a time saver just like the oil filter socket....

S6196KR, Socket, Ford ICP Sensor, 1 1/16", 3/8" square drive

 

Just put a new icp sensor on my 02 f350 7.3 liter. Took me about 10 minutes. You'll need a crow's foot wrench set and a considerably deep well socket to put the new icp sensor on. My truck was missing really badly, surging, and over all running like dog doo. Now it runs perfect. The down side: This little part set me back $175 from Ford dealership. Worth every penny in my opinion. I know you can find these over on ebay, but I don't trust those parts. I've heard some don't perform very well. Good luck all. Message me if anyone needs addnl info.

 

most of us do them from the bottom. remove thge heat sheild as stated, I also remove the drive shat and shift lever on automatics.