NEED Inner Tie Rod Help!...Please!
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NEED Inner Tie Rod Help!...Please!
So, so far the truck is up on jack stands. and I have replaced the upper ball joint/arm assembly. Next I must tackle the inner tie rods on both sides. It looks to me that they are covered by a rubber boot. Do the new parts screw in? what about lubrication? what kind is the right kind? And can I remove the rubber boot with out damaging it? and what else is there to know?
I know the front end alignment will be messed up. Any advice is good advice at this point! thanks. BTW: I did a search on "inner tie rods" and I read through most of them and I couldn't find what I was looking for. So I turn to you...the all powerful, all knowledgeable, forum browsers!
I know the front end alignment will be messed up. Any advice is good advice at this point! thanks. BTW: I did a search on "inner tie rods" and I read through most of them and I couldn't find what I was looking for. So I turn to you...the all powerful, all knowledgeable, forum browsers!
Laughing Gas
Joined: Apr 2004
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From: Northern Maine
I have never replaced the inner tie rod ends on my Ranger (1998 2-wheel drive with 197,500 miles) but I have been there several times on a Ford Tempo. They usually just screw onto the rack. The rubber bellows are removable and the inner tie rod ends are factory greased so no additional lubrication is necessary. The threads have thread sealer on them so that if you get them tight, they shouldn't loosen up. The best way to describe the tool that is used is a very deep 1/2" drive socket. You take the outer tie rod ends and jam nuts off and the socket fits the shoulders on the other end. My 98 Ranger has no factory front end adjustments other than toe in and toe out. I do that with a tape measure. It should not toe out at all and if it toes in it shouldn't be any more than 1/8". Another trick that I use is to compare the old and new tie rod ends and mark the new ones where the clean threads are on the old one. That way when you put the outer tie rod end on, you will at least be in the ball park when you set the toe in. Good luck.
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From: St. Peter
Sometimes I use a (really) large channel lock pliers to get them off. Believe it or not it works. Remove the outer tie rod and jam nut, then cut the clamps holding on the boot. Then you can slide the boot off, and get at the inner tie rod. When your done, you can clamp the boot back on with some large zip ties, or you can get the tool and the clamp and make a nice metal one like what was on there.
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ok so, how about since I am doing both sides of the rack, should I take them both off first? Or maybe better yet one at a time and then count the number of turns it takes on each side so that way it will be even.(or at least close) this is good info. thanks guys.
i am sure that I will just zip tie the boot back on.
i am sure that I will just zip tie the boot back on.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2002
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From: The Big, Oregon
I've used a large adjustable wrench on the flats to unscrew them. The inner rods bottom out, and most I've done had a little ball bearing you were supposed to hit with a punch to act as a lock. I'd usually use read locktite on these, as well. It's a royal PITA to undo, but at least they won't come back off. Usually counting the turns on the outers will get you close enough, but since you're changing a lot of stuff an alignment is a great idea.
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From: St. Peter
I agree on the alignment. Since you are changing your ball joints/tie rods, it would be a good idea to have everything aligned. You could count the turns of the outer tie rod. but I find it easier to just loosen up the jam nut, then unscrew the outer tie rod off without moving the jam nut. The compare it with the new one and set your jam nut to the same lenght. Reinstall, and it will be close enough so you can drive it to get it aligned.
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yeah, that make sense. That is what I'll do... tomarow. I'll let you guys know how it went. I don't think that It'll be all that difficult. (I'm no ASE, but I've done plenty of work on this truck as well as my Saturn.) Thanks for the insight, you've been helpfull.
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anotherfordguy
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