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What aftermarket rustproofing?

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Old Nov 15, 2008 | 09:42 AM
  #1  
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What aftermarket rustproofing?

As the wet, salty weather approaches I'm wondering what rust protection is the best, according to this forum.
 
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Old Nov 15, 2008 | 06:44 PM
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In all honesty, a water hose works wonders.
Want the good stuff?
Then get Line-X applied AFTER a good cleaning.
 
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Old Nov 15, 2008 | 07:49 PM
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+1 on the water hose. My old Tahoe held up to Wisconsin pretty well with a good weekly cleaning. However if you have a lot of extra time on your hands, do it yourself bed liners like Hurculiner work well. Just be sure you are not trapping existing rust under it.
 
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Old Nov 15, 2008 | 08:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Steve_250
In all honesty, a water hose works wonders.
Want the good stuff?
Then get Line-X applied AFTER a good cleaning.
I've often wondered about line-x undercoating ever since I saw that done on project crazy horse on trucks tv. On my next truck I want to keep for the life of the truck and figure it will pay for itself to do whatever I can early on to help. How effective is the line-X for undercoating? Can it really get in all the nook and crannies? I dont know much about line-x but Ive heard its about the best. Can you do it yourself or do you have to take it into one of theose spray shops?
 
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Old Nov 15, 2008 | 08:35 PM
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You will never get it into all the nooks & grannies.
The only thing that can get in all those places is mud and sand.
As with any application, you can do it yourself if you have the facilities, tools, etc.
You WILL make a mess of yourself and the driveway.

Oh, just remember, Line-X/Rhino doesn't easily come off of "doo-dads".
Someone here will remember that thread from a few years ago....
 
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Old Nov 15, 2008 | 09:20 PM
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The body shop I grew up in sprayed Rhino Liner. We did the under carrige of 2 Jeeps, but it was not a job for the beginer. The frame was stripped of all things that did not need to be permanent; brake lines, fuel lines, axles, suspension, wires everything. We then media blasted it. After the frame was stripped of all coatings, the fun part began... any threaded hole, stud or any thing you did not want filled in with nearly indestructible rubber had to be filled with a bolt with PAM on it, or taped off with masking tape and piano wire "to cut the liner" Even spraying the frame & body was a PITA, I was shocked after the first one, when my dad agreed to a second. They were awsome, but I would never do it again. I still stick to my wash it weekly solution unless you have a shop, lift, several cans of hurculiner, a full week of time and basicly want to do a frame up restoration. I am sure some one will disagree, but that is my experience.
 
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Old Nov 15, 2008 | 09:54 PM
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Rust proofing really isn't possible. Maintenance will be required. Clean it regularly. Some people will go so far as to crawl under once a year to sand and paint any trouble areas.

I live in Illinois. I don't see hardly any older vehicles on the road. Out west older vehicles are as common as McDonalds. In the midwest winter salt and constant year-round moisture causes things to corrode quickly. My 2000 Jeep Cherokee has rust bubbling through a small area on the top of the roof. I didn't do anything wrong. It's just the hard life a vehicle lives in the midwest. When I visit west coast states it makes me jealous to see a '85 Cherokee with nothing more than slightly faded paint.

Just do the best you can to keep it clean. The rest is going to come down to luck.
 
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Old Nov 15, 2008 | 10:05 PM
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i have always swore by that grease type under coating. They are able to get in the more difficult areas with a fogging process, plus if there was area missed, it will usually get filled on a hot day as the grease may thin a tad
 
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Old Nov 15, 2008 | 11:32 PM
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Yep, for the under body, I like an old fashion spray on (non drying) rubberized under coating. It's got to be cheaper than Line-x/Rhino, but you do have to touch it up from time to time. Maintenance is the key though. We don't have a big problem here (a dozen or so miles from the beach and it only freezes 20 times a year), but for you, hose it down, spray some WD40 to remove the water should do wonders. Hosing off will remove the salt but your now pushing water on to the potential bad spots. A squirt of Water Displacement 40 attempt (WD-40) should remove any water and give you a couple days worth of rust prevention.
 
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Old Nov 16, 2008 | 06:28 PM
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I sprayed rust proofing on my 2005 Mustang and the paint started bubling. I brought it to the dealer and they said the waranty is void since you used rust proofing.
 
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Old Nov 16, 2008 | 07:05 PM
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I had my truck ziebarted when new, and 6 years later, all is well. However rustproofing is only as good as the technician doing the job. Dealer tried to sell me rustproofing prior to delivery, and they were totally shocked when I passed.
 
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Old Nov 16, 2008 | 07:26 PM
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Yeah my 99 150 came with rustproofing... seemed to do fine for a while and I know its a stretch to blame anything 10 years later but shes starting to rust pretty good now. My driver side cab corner has rusted trhough, hole big enough for about 3 fingers to stick through. No, I dont wash it off regularly. But I recall my dads last ford he bought new in 93 I think it was(newer 90's bodystyle) he washed it off at work twice a week in the winter (upstate NY) and it still rusted out worse than mine in less time too so I dont put much faith into just rinsing. but I am lazy anyhow so thats just an excuse.
 
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Old Nov 16, 2008 | 08:44 PM
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What the dealer tried to explain to me about rustproofing was that it penetrates between the paint and the sheet metal and it lifts the paint. Must be something with Ford's. A few of my freinds own GM's and they have there vehicules rust proofed and the don't have any problems.
 
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Old Nov 16, 2008 | 08:49 PM
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When they ask me if I want rustproofing, I ask them if they have a quality control problem and are they trying to sell me a problem? I usually get the undercoating for free.
 
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Old Nov 16, 2008 | 09:41 PM
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There is only one product that I use that eliminates rust for years. After 20 years of trying everything and watching it fail I only use Waxoyl hardwax for exterior and cavity wax for all the other cavities..You can blow off loose rust with a needle scaler and go right over rust such as an axle. The hardwax dries...stuff works. Hard to find. pm me I might be able to hook you up if anyone is interested.


Dick
 
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