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ingnition upgrade question

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Old Nov 13, 2008 | 10:08 AM
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ingnition upgrade question

so, i have a 239Y Block & descided to convert to 12v. I'd also, like to update/grade the ignition system...any suggestions on what to upgrade to?? Also, can I run the original distrib...or should i change that out as well...
 
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Old Nov 13, 2008 | 10:32 AM
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You can change the points out to a Pertronix electronic ignition system adn still retainthe stock look to your distributor.

I'm running a Pertronix unit in my 1965 Falcon with a 170ci 6cyl. I've had no problems with it.

Bobby
 
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Old Nov 13, 2008 | 10:39 AM
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[quote=bobbytnm;6762885]You can change the points out to a Pertronix electronic ignition system adn still retainthe stock look to your distributor.

So, i looked on the Pertronix web site...they sell the "Ignitor," is that what your suggesting?
 
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Old Nov 13, 2008 | 11:00 AM
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If you want to run the points it will work just fine on 12V. You just have to install a resistor in feed line to the coil.
If you want to eliminate the points the electronic conversion will work fine.
 
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Old Nov 13, 2008 | 11:04 AM
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yeah, i'd like to eliminate the points...this should make it more efficent right? maybe responsive too?
 
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Old Nov 13, 2008 | 11:13 AM
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I'm running a UNILITE distributor full mechanical. What intake and carb-carbs combination are you running. I used the unilite so I had no worries on the different carbs and different vacuum ports. Now I can run anything with the unilite. Summit sells them I think the part number was 8383, but I'm not sure.

Kevin Bigwin
 
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Old Nov 13, 2008 | 11:22 AM
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I'm running a 2V intake with a 94 holly...
 
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Old Nov 13, 2008 | 11:51 AM
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Petronics is a no fail system .Stock appearance .I would suggest this . Used this system on the 1ST-RIDE and have had 0 problems .
 
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Old Nov 13, 2008 | 11:54 AM
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Originally Posted by firstrider
Petronics is a no fail system .Stock appearance .I would suggest this . Used this system on the 1ST-RIDE and have had 0 problems .
did you also, use the "flame thrower," coil...?
 
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Old Nov 13, 2008 | 12:01 PM
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Absolutely !! It is recommended to use the unit as a set or you might detect a burning electrical odor in the air .
 
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Old Nov 13, 2008 | 12:08 PM
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LOL... Gotcha!
 
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Old Nov 13, 2008 | 09:44 PM
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Also, do yourself a BIG favor. As long as you are going 12 volt switch to an alternator and buy a "one wire" alternator with an internal regulator. "Tuff Stuff" sells them and they work great. Get rid of that generator, get rid of the external regulators (for both the generator and alternator) and all that wiring.

For as many threads I participate in that have to do with charging system problems, trust me - the "one wire" is the way to go---that's what I use!

If you still use your original gauges, you can change them over with that cute little resistor everyone sells - I have one on the gas guage and it works great The amp guage is fine as is, it will work with 12 volt (should just be an induction loop) (I have converted my oil and temp to mechanical gauges) For your heater motor, you may have may have trouble finding a 12 volt motor. You can use a "Vol-ta Drop" to run the heater. If you have electric wipers, you'll need to swap that out or use the Vol-ta-drop.

All your switches will cross over fine except the wiper switch (if you have electric) and the heater switch. If you use the vol-ta-drop the 6V switches are ok. You'll have to swap out all the light bulbs and get a 12 volt flasher for the signals.

I heard you could use the 6 volt starter with a 12 volt system if you didn't crank too long. Not sure about that. Probably going to need a 12 volt starter solenoid. And a 12 volt coil.

I think that's it!

Julie!
 
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Old Nov 18, 2008 | 06:14 PM
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julie,

thanks a bunch...i never heard for a vol ta drop??? but am looking into it..to answer you YES! i'm switching over to a one wire, got it already...I also, bought see:...from MIDFIFTY
ALTERNATOR CONNECTION KIT,
use this kit if using a one wire
GM alternator.This is the easiest way to add an alternator to any
engine conversion. It is correct for the ford truck using original
ignition and headlight switch, includes proper diode and complete
instructions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3271 . . . . . . . .$39.95 kit

 
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Old Nov 19, 2008 | 01:00 AM
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Vol-ta-drop 101

A "Vol-ta-drop" is a big porcelien block with 2 resistors in it that convert 12 volt to 6 volt. It will handle about 10 amps when hooked in series. "Vol-ta-drop" is the commercial name and just about all of the restoparts houses sell them - about $25.

Here is a picture of mine. They are about 3 inches square and about 3/4 inch deep. You run a 12 volt feed wire to the top screw and 6 volt comes out the bottom two at 4 and 6 amps. If you hook those two screws in series, like I have in the picture with the white wire, you can push 10 amps.

The only 6 volt "appliance" I still have is the heater motor and it works super, but more important, the Vol-ta-drop protects the rheostatic switch and keeps it from getting too hot on the 12 volt system.

Where this can be very important is when you have 6 volt electrical parts that it is almost impossible to find 12 volt upgrades for. Perfect example, Borg Warner Overdrive Transmissions. Try and find a 12 volt relay (they made them - a lot of them, but try to find one). The Vol-ta-drop will allow you to run the 6 volt overdrive system (relay and solenoid [governor is actually mechanical]) in a 12 volt system with NO problems!!





Julie
 
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