LED Tail Light Wiring Question
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From: Northern New Mexico
LED Tail Light Wiring Question
On our '98 F-250 we converted to a flatbed and would like to change the stop, turn and tail lights to LED. Should I cut off the Ford OEM female recepticles from the harness and solder new conncectors (weatherproof, of course) in order to connect the LED pigtails? I have not seen any kind of aftermarket plug compatible with the Ford harness.
What have others done?
What have others done?
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From: Northern New Mexico
Thanks for the validation. This is new for me.
The LEDS are supposed to draw way less current than the incaedescent bulbs, although with four lights I should measure the demand. A capacitor might be a good idea.
The LEDS are supposed to draw way less current than the incaedescent bulbs, although with four lights I should measure the demand. A capacitor might be a good idea.
Hotshot
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From: La La Land
You won't need a capacitor. Unless, of course, you want the LED's to go out slowly, mimicking the old incandescents.
You may need resistors, however, to make the flasher unit work properly with the reduced current draw of the LED's. They effectively take the current draw back up to what it was using the incandescents.
An electronic flasher unit will eliminate the need for resistors.
Pop
You may need resistors, however, to make the flasher unit work properly with the reduced current draw of the LED's. They effectively take the current draw back up to what it was using the incandescents.
An electronic flasher unit will eliminate the need for resistors.
Pop
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From: S CAL
A led tail light is a light emmitting diode and diodes are polarized and have to be connected with the positive on the correct lead from your truck. I am not sure what a capcitor is suppose to do in this circuit. The tail lights you get should already have limiting circuits in it for the led's so that they do not burn out.
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Pop's suggestion about the flasher unit is a good one. I had forgotten about the electrical potential issue with the LED being such a lower draw.
Thanks for reminding me about polarity. I had not forgotten that DC systems are fussy about that. My first task once the new connectors are on is to test and label each lead. I was hoping to avoid that with an aftermarket snap on adapter but no such product.
I will post photos assuming there is a direct upload capabaility on this website. The offsite link for photos is beyond my capabilities.
Thanks for reminding me about polarity. I had not forgotten that DC systems are fussy about that. My first task once the new connectors are on is to test and label each lead. I was hoping to avoid that with an aftermarket snap on adapter but no such product.
I will post photos assuming there is a direct upload capabaility on this website. The offsite link for photos is beyond my capabilities.
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You won't need a capacitor. Unless, of course, you want the LED's to go out slowly, mimicking the old incandescents.
You may need resistors, however, to make the flasher unit work properly with the reduced current draw of the LED's. They effectively take the current draw back up to what it was using the incandescents.
You may need resistors, however, to make the flasher unit work properly with the reduced current draw of the LED's. They effectively take the current draw back up to what it was using the incandescents.
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Finished the flatbed and fabricated steel boxes for the 4 inch round LEDs. THey work but are they bright! In fact, they are blinding- like Red headlights. This ought to cut down on tailgaters at night!!
The turn indicator circuit is blinking about twice as fast as normal- like when there is a short. I wonder if this fast pulse combined with the extreme brightness indicates there is too much current? I thought LEDs drew less amps than incandescent bulbs.
Or, maybe the 19 or so LEDs are just friggin bright on purpose.
The turn indicator circuit is blinking about twice as fast as normal- like when there is a short. I wonder if this fast pulse combined with the extreme brightness indicates there is too much current? I thought LEDs drew less amps than incandescent bulbs.
Or, maybe the 19 or so LEDs are just friggin bright on purpose.
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From: South Bend, IN
THey work but are they bright! In fact, they are blinding- like Red headlights. This ought to cut down on tailgaters at night!!
The turn indicator circuit is blinking about twice as fast as normal- like when there is a short. I wonder if this fast pulse combined with the extreme brightness indicates there is too much current? I thought LEDs drew less amps than incandescent bulbs.
The turn indicator circuit is blinking about twice as fast as normal- like when there is a short. I wonder if this fast pulse combined with the extreme brightness indicates there is too much current? I thought LEDs drew less amps than incandescent bulbs.
LEDs do draw less current and as a result your flasher relay is getting its power too quickly thinking there's a short, thus faster flashing. Add a resistor or look into different relays.
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From: Northern New Mexico
Dew, both you and SpringerPop suggested placing a resistor in line. My question is where? Is there a particular place that is best? Near the lights I guessing. How do I size the resistor?
This 12 Volt lighting is new to me. I barely understand 120/220 V AC systems.
This 12 Volt lighting is new to me. I barely understand 120/220 V AC systems.
Former ******
Joined: Nov 2004
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From: Salt Lake City, Utah
I just got a new flasher. Its easier than adding a resistor, and you don't have to figure out what resistance you need. There are flasher units that are designed for towing and LEDs at most auto parts stores. All you have to do is plug it in. the flasher module is under the dash most likely near the fusebox. When your blinkers are on you can hear it.
When you are in the parts store, just let the guy at the counter know you have LED lights and that you want a flasher module that works with LEDs, they should get you exactly what you need.
When you are in the parts store, just let the guy at the counter know you have LED lights and that you want a flasher module that works with LEDs, they should get you exactly what you need.
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