Head/Block compatability question
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Senior User
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Head/Block compatability question
Ok, I just got a call from the machinist today and he said that the heads on my engine had a total of 4 cracks between them. Sooo, I'm down to 1 set of heads left.
Right now my build consists of:
- D3TE-1 block bored .030 over
- 2U cranshaft
- C7AE-B rods
- D5TE9426 KB intake
Can anybody tell me if the C8AE-H heads will work on my particular build?
Thanks for any info.
Right now my build consists of:
- D3TE-1 block bored .030 over
- 2U cranshaft
- C7AE-B rods
- D5TE9426 KB intake
Can anybody tell me if the C8AE-H heads will work on my particular build?
Thanks for any info.
Needsmorecoffee.
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 3,624
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From: CT
Yep they will work fine. They are stock heads and used on various 68-71 engines. They are the smaller "velocity port" design as some call them. Valve spacing is std size and valve size is 2.05-1.55 in stock trim. The D2TE-6090-AA heads replaced them for 72 and up. Everything you have there is pretty much stock parts.
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Cool, thanks again! This is yet another reason why I like this site so much! I figured somebody on here would know.This is my first attempt at an FE rebuild, so I'm still learning about the different part numbers, compatibilities and stuff. I'm pretty much just putting a stock build together. It all started with just a 360 regasket kind of thing, but then the deeper I dug, the more worn stuff I found, and then I saw a great deal on a 390 so then I decided that it would be best just to rebuild the whole thing as a 390 and forget about it.
The heads that I found out were bad, were the D2TE's.
So the smog tubes can just simply be plugged and call it a day? I'm hoping so because otherwise I'm looking at having to buy a new set.
The heads that I found out were bad, were the D2TE's.
So the smog tubes can just simply be plugged and call it a day? I'm hoping so because otherwise I'm looking at having to buy a new set.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 3,785
Likes: 4
From: Mddl A MexCans
yes you can get brass plaugs at a decent parts/hardware store. There is a post on here that contains the aprts # for the OEM but it's been about 5mo or so. And it may have been the 61-66 forum but pretty sure it's this one.
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 42,561
Likes: 423
From: Long Island USA
C8AE-H heads are physically the same as D2TE heads, the only difference is the lack of hardened exhaust seats.
And not to pick nits, but I thought the exhaust valves were 1.560" ? I remember, because the CJ/SCJ exhaust valves were 1.650", and the regular valves, the 6 and 5 were reversed...
And not to pick nits, but I thought the exhaust valves were 1.560" ? I remember, because the CJ/SCJ exhaust valves were 1.650", and the regular valves, the 6 and 5 were reversed...
Old School Hot Rodder
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 6,472
Likes: 11
From: Exmore, VA
On the air pump plugs, they should be 3/8-24 thread, go to a place that sells headless setscrews and get some that are long enough 1/2" or so. I plugged many a set back in the day. Works on Ford and Chevy air pump holes.
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Ok, thanks for the plug info! I know somebody around here probably has them. I have come to really hate FE exhaust manifold bolts! On the now bad set of heads, I only had 4 bolts come out on their own. I had to drill and tap the other 12, just to find out that it was only for practice! Then, today, I had to pull the manifolds and the air tubes off these heads before they go to the machine shop. Luckily, I had the sense to start soaking these in penetrant for about a week now. I only had to drill and tap 3 today. Woohoo! I'm definitely better at it now, but I still don't like it! I digress, anywho, I thank yall again and I guess it's off to see the machinist guy.
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Needsmorecoffee.
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 3,624
Likes: 2
From: CT
C8AE-H heads are physically the same as D2TE heads, the only difference is the lack of hardened exhaust seats.
And not to pick nits, but I thought the exhaust valves were 1.560" ? I remember, because the CJ/SCJ exhaust valves were 1.650", and the regular valves, the 6 and 5 were reversed...
And not to pick nits, but I thought the exhaust valves were 1.560" ? I remember, because the CJ/SCJ exhaust valves were 1.650", and the regular valves, the 6 and 5 were reversed...
Well Art you can pick nits (isn't that a Russ sayin?) anytime you like!! Spec is 1.551-1.566 to be exact.
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
Likes: 785
From: Simi Valley, CA
Forget the brass plugs, they are not tapered, will leak and are too soft to do the job.
Since you can still get them from Ford, I suggest using the real thing.
8) C6AZ6052A .. Cylinder Head Exhaust Air Supply Plug / 1/2" -20 x 1 11/32" hex head.
Used to block off Thermactor holes in the head.
MSRP each: $5.10 / FTEpartsguy.com price each: $3.67
Since you can still get them from Ford, I suggest using the real thing.
8) C6AZ6052A .. Cylinder Head Exhaust Air Supply Plug / 1/2" -20 x 1 11/32" hex head.
Used to block off Thermactor holes in the head.
MSRP each: $5.10 / FTEpartsguy.com price each: $3.67
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One other question on blocking them off though. When I unbolted the air tubes, 2 of the "inner" air tubes actually came out of the block still attached to the threaded air tubes. Does it matter a whole hill of beans if they did? I guess what I mean is, does it change any of the dynamics and make it run better/worse because 2 cylinders have the inner air tubes removed? I suppose I could easily just push those 2 back into the holes, but pulling the other 6 might present somewhat of a problem.
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