help battery and alternator issues
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help battery and alternator issues
I have a 1997 F-150 4.6L 4x4 ext cab
OK so I fixed my ground problem under the passenger kick side panel ran the truck went in side for 20 minutes come out and the truck is dead. I charged teh battery and noticed the battery light is not on when in the start or while the truck is running and with in a minute it drains the battery and dies. I have used the volt meter on the battery and the alternator is not charging ok maybe bad alternator ! but why is the battery light not on ????? it came on before the ground problem and yes the light is good i have checked that as well.
Anyone help me i am having the alternator tested in the morning and a new one if neccassary but where is the fusable link for the alternator and yes all the fuses are good as well even went as far as changing the fuses anyways to see if that was the problem ?????
help me please I need my truck back a.s.a.p.
OK so I fixed my ground problem under the passenger kick side panel ran the truck went in side for 20 minutes come out and the truck is dead. I charged teh battery and noticed the battery light is not on when in the start or while the truck is running and with in a minute it drains the battery and dies. I have used the volt meter on the battery and the alternator is not charging ok maybe bad alternator ! but why is the battery light not on ????? it came on before the ground problem and yes the light is good i have checked that as well.
Anyone help me i am having the alternator tested in the morning and a new one if neccassary but where is the fusable link for the alternator and yes all the fuses are good as well even went as far as changing the fuses anyways to see if that was the problem ?????
help me please I need my truck back a.s.a.p.
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From: Virginia
The charge indicator light is fused. It's #19, 10 amp in the underhood fuse box. The orange/lightblue also has a inline 20 amp fuse and is for the regulator.The main charge wires from the alternator (yellow/white wires) go to a 175amp mega fuse.
If you can get to the wires on the alternator, use a testlight or voltmeter and with the engine off, you should have 12 volts on the yellow/white wires. This will mean the 175amp fuse and that wiring is good. You should also have 12 volts on the orange/lightblue wire. This will mean the 20 amp fuse and that circuit are good.
With the key in run, but the engine off, you should get voltage on the lightgreen/red wire. This will mean the 10 amp fuse and the indicator light circuit are good.
If you can get to the wires on the alternator, use a testlight or voltmeter and with the engine off, you should have 12 volts on the yellow/white wires. This will mean the 175amp fuse and that wiring is good. You should also have 12 volts on the orange/lightblue wire. This will mean the 20 amp fuse and that circuit are good.
With the key in run, but the engine off, you should get voltage on the lightgreen/red wire. This will mean the 10 amp fuse and the indicator light circuit are good.
Post Fiend
Joined: May 2006
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From: Central Florida
I'd start with checking the voltage with the engine off, with the engine idling and with the engine turning about 2000rpms. You should see the voltage increase at speed and about 13.5-14.5 max.
With the engine idling, put the probes on the alt case and the bolt for the charge wire. If you see different voltages, then you have a wiring/ground problem at the alt.
Then remove the neg battery terminal and switch your DMM to amps. Put the DMM in series between the neg terminal and neg wire. This will give you the draw, ideally it should be between 20-50mA, under 100mA should be fine. If your over 100, you might try disconnecting the battery charging wire from the alt. If it drops, then your alt is killing the battery.
The fusable links should be in heat shrink tubing near the battery.
With the engine idling, put the probes on the alt case and the bolt for the charge wire. If you see different voltages, then you have a wiring/ground problem at the alt.
Then remove the neg battery terminal and switch your DMM to amps. Put the DMM in series between the neg terminal and neg wire. This will give you the draw, ideally it should be between 20-50mA, under 100mA should be fine. If your over 100, you might try disconnecting the battery charging wire from the alt. If it drops, then your alt is killing the battery.
The fusable links should be in heat shrink tubing near the battery.
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I am curious if you can tell me exactly where the fusible link from the alternator is on my 1997 F-150 4.6L 4x4 ext cab XL my battery light is out all the time and the brand new alternator i install last night is still not charging and all my fuses are good ?? can you help me ??
Post Fiend
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 10,007
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From: Central Florida
Not exactly, but follow wires from the pos battery terminal. There should be a couple of smaller gauge wires close to the terminal, these should have what looks like heat shrink or extra insulation over a small area. Under that insulation should be your fuseable links.
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ok there is only on small red wire that goes from the battery to the starter so that is not it and then the main big red wire for power.
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ok well good news and bad news lol
The good news
OK Franklin2 thanky ou very very much that #19 fuse 10amp in the dash was the problem all along even though it only says intrement cluster and airbag module in the book.
the person who owned the truck before me had a wire shoved in that spot to provide power to a seft of aftermarket fog lights. The fuse was good but after i rewired the lights properly and took the wire from out of the fuse spot the fuse no longer made contact and for some reason up untill now my battery was fine lol
i would like to thank everyone who had an opinion or a suggestion to help me out and for putting up with my many post about this problem
Thanks a million every one !!!!!
now the bad news lmao i need a gas tank mine is rotten
The good news
OK Franklin2 thanky ou very very much that #19 fuse 10amp in the dash was the problem all along even though it only says intrement cluster and airbag module in the book.
the person who owned the truck before me had a wire shoved in that spot to provide power to a seft of aftermarket fog lights. The fuse was good but after i rewired the lights properly and took the wire from out of the fuse spot the fuse no longer made contact and for some reason up untill now my battery was fine lol
i would like to thank everyone who had an opinion or a suggestion to help me out and for putting up with my many post about this problem
Thanks a million every one !!!!!
now the bad news lmao i need a gas tank mine is rotten
