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Both window motors stopped working on my 94 Aerostar. One day they worked then without warning they stopped. I had the window half open, then when I tried to close them that when I noticed the problem.
I have changed the circuit breaker and check voltage at the switch. I also tried to hot wire one of the motors directly off the battery. No luck so far.
Is it possible that both the motors died at the same time?
Is there a way I can manually close the windows? Its getting cold.
Any suggestion on how to find and fix the problem would be appreciated.
one advice. try to neasure voltage on motor terminals with avometer. I had one problem with my power window motor.... - small thermak switch inside motor. Had to clean and to bend a bit.
No (both motors wont fail) it has to be a wiring problem. Check for a broken wire in the door post rubber boot. Have you tried the switch in the passenger door?
No (both motors wont fail) it has to be a wiring problem. Check for a broken wire in the door post rubber boot. Have you tried the switch in the passenger door?
Yes, I have tried all the switches on both doors; none of them work.
You can hot wire the motors if you can get the correct wires. I don't think both motors would go bad at once. Out of 4 vans I never had a bad one..Pic at upper right for correct color of wires to motor.
got 12v ign switched power at the lt blue/blk lead on both window switches?
does the black lead still have 0 ohms to chassis ground at all times?
From the diagram it looks like the ground for both switches is on the drivers side, common to both switches. It's either that or a bad power wire where it's common to both switches. I'm betting on a bad ground.
When two things fail at once 99% of the time the thing that binds them together is to blame.
Try measuring the battery voltage (with the key in the accessory on position) from the window harness if the ground is bad you should get no reading or if it's marginal you will get a partial (but still wrong) reading.
Then touch the negative probe to a good ground (unpainted metal) you should get 12 volts.
I jumpered my ground from my master switch to a bare spot on the chassis. The driver side window switch worked but the passenger window switch did not work. The switch on the passenger door only worked to lower the window.
So I do have a ground problem. I will have to find where it is cut.
But now I have one window up and the other window down. Can anyone explain why the switches acted like this?
To get the passenger window up I am going to jumper the switch to the battery.
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