Ignition Control Module?
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Jun 2008
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From: Florida
Ignition Control Module?
I have a 1980 Ford F100 with a 4.9 300.I went out to start it today,and got nothing.The lights work,as well as the buzzer,but it's not turning over.I've went over every wire and all of the basic starting systems.Everything's been cleaned and checked.
It has been doing this for the last month now.There's been a couple times i've gone out just for the heck of it to see if it would start,and it would,but then the next day it wouldn't.I got to looking at the ignition system,and remembered that I had found an old igniton control module under the seat when I first got the truck.So I was wondering if maybe the control module that's currently on the truck is now nad too.Any help is greatly appreciated.
It has been doing this for the last month now.There's been a couple times i've gone out just for the heck of it to see if it would start,and it would,but then the next day it wouldn't.I got to looking at the ignition system,and remembered that I had found an old igniton control module under the seat when I first got the truck.So I was wondering if maybe the control module that's currently on the truck is now nad too.Any help is greatly appreciated.
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From: Virginia
The ignition module has nothing to do with the engine turning over, though some people have different definitions of "turning over". If the engine is not turning by the starter when the key is turned, then it will not be the ignition module.
If the engine is not turning by the starter, then take a small jumper wire and with the tranny in park or neutral, jump #3 to #5 in the diagram below and see if it will turn.
If the engine is not turning by the starter, then take a small jumper wire and with the tranny in park or neutral, jump #3 to #5 in the diagram below and see if it will turn.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Jun 2008
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From: Florida
The ignition module has nothing to do with the engine turning over, though some people have different definitions of "turning over". If the engine is not turning by the starter when the key is turned, then it will not be the ignition module.
If the engine is not turning by the starter, then take a small jumper wire and with the tranny in park or neutral, jump #3 to #5 in the diagram below and see if it will turn.
If the engine is not turning by the starter, then take a small jumper wire and with the tranny in park or neutral, jump #3 to #5 in the diagram below and see if it will turn.
MSEE
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 10,386
Likes: 35
From: Austin, TX
Jump just means connect them together. The easiest way to do this in my opinion is to remove the small connector on post 5 in the picture, and take a flat blade screwdriver, and connect it across posts 3 and 5. Be careful when you do this because the engine will try to crank over when they connect. It can spark some as well, so be careful of this if it's close to the battery (not a bad idea to wear goggles when working near a battery). Don't hold on to the fender\hood\sheetmetal and the metal part of the screwdriver when you do this either. I'm just listing out all the things to be careful about when you're working around an automotive electrical system since you said it's new to you.
Thread Starter
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Jun 2008
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From: Florida
Jump just means connect them together. The easiest way to do this in my opinion is to remove the small connector on post 5 in the picture, and take a flat blade screwdriver, and connect it across posts 3 and 5. Be careful when you do this because the engine will try to crank over when they connect. It can spark some as well, so be careful of this if it's close to the battery (not a bad idea to wear goggles when working near a battery). Don't hold on to the fender\hood\sheetmetal and the metal part of the screwdriver when you do this either. I'm just listing out all the things to be careful about when you're working around an automotive electrical system since you said it's new to you.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Jun 2008
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From: Florida
Since nobody's replying,I went out and played around with the wires and whatnot,and decided to put on the old solenoid.When I put it on and turned the key,it made a humming noise.I know it was a bad solenoid,cause it was the original motorcraft one,but it actually did something.So could it be that the solenoid I currently have on there is bad?I already replaced it about 2 or 3 months ago.All help is appreciated.
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MSEE
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 10,386
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From: Austin, TX
No, the solenoid sounds fine. When a solenoid chatters, it's often the result of a low battery or corroded battery cables. Someone else happened to have this same issue last night and I explained the cause. Instead of typing it again, refer to this link:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...ml#post6744136
By the way, how do you know the battery is fine? Until you've verified the battery voltage at stand-still and under load with a multimeter, assume you know nothing about the battery's condition.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...ml#post6744136
By the way, how do you know the battery is fine? Until you've verified the battery voltage at stand-still and under load with a multimeter, assume you know nothing about the battery's condition.
Thread Starter
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 4,990
Likes: 6
From: Florida
No, the solenoid sounds fine. When a solenoid chatters, it's often the result of a low battery or corroded battery cables. Someone else happened to have this same issue last night and I explained the cause. Instead of typing it again, refer to this link:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...ml#post6744136
By the way, how do you know the battery is fine? Until you've verified the battery voltage at stand-still and under load with a multimeter, assume you know nothing about the battery's condition.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...ml#post6744136
By the way, how do you know the battery is fine? Until you've verified the battery voltage at stand-still and under load with a multimeter, assume you know nothing about the battery's condition.
MSEE
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 10,386
Likes: 35
From: Austin, TX
Just to let you know, the new solenoid was a waste of money. Not sure why you're so intent on it having been the solenoid. How do your cables look? Any corrosion on them? When it cranks over, is it slow and drawn out, or does it sound healthy? When it dies, does it cough\sputter or is it a straight cut-out?
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Joined: Jan 2001
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From: Virginia
Take the aircleaner off, and with the engine off, climb up in the engine compartment and look down the carb throat while pushing back on the throttle linkage. If you do not see any gas squirting down the carb throat when you push the throttle linkage back, then you are out of gas.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Jun 2008
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From: Florida
Just to let you know, the new solenoid was a waste of money. Not sure why you're so intent on it having been the solenoid. How do your cables look? Any corrosion on them? When it cranks over, is it slow and drawn out, or does it sound healthy? When it dies, does it cough\sputter or is it a straight cut-out?
The cables are perfect.As are all the the other wires.
When It cranks over,it sounds healthy.And when it died,it was a straight cut out.
Thread Starter
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 4,990
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From: Florida
Take the aircleaner off, and with the engine off, climb up in the engine compartment and look down the carb throat while pushing back on the throttle linkage. If you do not see any gas squirting down the carb throat when you push the throttle linkage back, then you are out of gas.