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HX50 Install...

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Old Nov 8, 2008 | 11:21 AM
  #1  
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HX50 Install...

Well boys I have the charger on the truck. It looks pretty good and getting ready to start it up to check for leaks. I've encountered a few problems that I'm stumped on...

1) I can't get the downpipe between the firewall and passenger up-pipe. The 50 sits closer to the engine so this could be a challenge even if
I could get the downpipe to fit in there. Solution = I'm thinking about removing the windshield fuild tank and routing the pipe through the fender. Looks like there is plenty of room to do this. Any thoughts? This pipe would have to be header wrapped to decrease engine compartment temperatues...

2) I totally lost with the h2e intecooler pipes... I'm pretty sure they sent me superduty pipes... Not a big problem I can utlilize my old ones and some of the bends from the new ones and have it looking good.

I think thats about it with my problems here. If you guys have any suggestions let me know. I doubt I'm gonna get it down this weekend.
 
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Old Nov 8, 2008 | 11:55 PM
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I dont know what to tell you about the cooler pipes. But for the DP. i dont know if it will work but, what if you come straight out of the turbo angled toward the firewall and then at the fire wall have say a 90* that goes down. I think with sending the pipe through the fender you and going to have a fire hazard even with it being wrapped. I'm just thinking out loud here so this may not even work but something to think about.
 
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Old Nov 9, 2008 | 11:36 AM
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Does the 50 sit lower in the engine or what? I would think that the DP would be really close if not the same as if it were a H2E. I would think it would be easier to mod the pipe fit the stock location than to reroute it like you are thinking. Rerouting it would work. Many trucks that run compound turbo's have the primary up in the right front corner and have the DP run thru the wheel well. it will just be a lot of work.

On the IC pipes I would talk to Bean or who ever you got them from. If I were buying new parts and they needed to be modded to fit I would wait to get the right ones. I would certainly look into whether they sent you the right ones.
 
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Old Nov 9, 2008 | 06:25 PM
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I ran the downpipe in the stock location this afternoon. I have some pictures of what I got going on, hopefully I will get around to posting them tonight.

The hx50 sits quite a bit lower than the h2e.

As far as intercooler pipes... I'm not worried about them.. I'll make my own. I've already used one bend for the downpipe.

All in all looks pretty good. I still have a oil leak on the inlet to the turbo though. Not a big problem, I just need a new fitting.

The truck has been sitting since August and she fired right up without any hesitation!
 
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Old Nov 9, 2008 | 07:02 PM
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Here's a couple pics... The downpipe is still in progress and needs a little attention with a dye grinder.









Comments? Concerns? Suggestions?
 
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Old Nov 9, 2008 | 07:09 PM
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That does sit low! And I forgot about that stupid flange you have to deal with. It looks good so far though! What did you end up using for the turbo drain? Also does the H2E kit intake tube seem to work? Does it clear the CCV dog house? I say keep up the good work and keep your eyes open for a cheap H2E or a 17cm non WG housing for my 50. I would have that sucker done if I could just find one of those two things!
 
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Old Nov 9, 2008 | 07:17 PM
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Doghouse will have to be relocated. I'm probably drill a hole towards the front on the vc for it later.

The intake will have to be reduced to 3.5 to clear the valve cover. I know, bummer. Shouldn't be too big of a restriction because the id of the turbo inlet is 3".

I used the h2e kit oil return line. There is a almost horizontal stop in it, but the oil should be able to drain out of the turbo housing so seepage should not be a problem.

The downpipe is currently hitting the top of the head and upipe. I can't make it fit without hitting anything. It's just too tight. I wouldn't think that should be a problem.

I'll keep my eyes out TJ.

Oh yeah... I didn't post the picture of the cummins hauling the stroker through town. I'd like to keep the spirit high around here lol.
 
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Old Nov 9, 2008 | 07:32 PM
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Originally Posted by FARM69

Oh yeah... I didn't post the picture of the cummins hauling the stroker through town. I'd like to keep the spirit high around here lol.
if you posted that it would surely cause alot of and and and I am quite certain you would be for life!

thanks for keeping your eyes open for me to. I have a line on a H2E but it been a month and the guy hasn't been online to respond to my PM even though he said I am first in line.....But I have a fully working 50 and a H2E 19cm exhuast housing. I think its time to see what parts will interchange.
 
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Old Nov 9, 2008 | 07:48 PM
  #9  
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haha... I have to admit the rig looked pretty good. Might have to get used to it when my stroker turns into a full blown sled puller. hahaha.

I bet the parts might be interchangeable. They are pretty much identical.
 
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Old Nov 9, 2008 | 09:10 PM
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From: Ft Scott
Originally Posted by FARM69

The downpipe is currently hitting the top of the head and upipe. I can't make it fit without hitting anything. It's just too tight. I wouldn't think that should be a problem.
That's what I thought too. I had minimal clearace on the firewall and the up pipe and down pipe were touching. I figured that because they were both bolted to the engine that they would move in sync and not rub each other. Wrong!
I ended up with an egg shaped hole the size of a half dollar in the downpipe.


Have you tried loosening the cab mounts and moving the cab backward? Or what about loosening the engine/trans mounts and moving them forward
 
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Old Nov 9, 2008 | 09:14 PM
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Originally Posted by BlueMule
That's what I thought too. I had minimal clearace on the firewall and the up pipe and down pipe were touching. I figured that because they were both bolted to the engine that they would move in sync and not rub each other. Wrong!
I ended up with an egg shaped hole the size of a half dollar in the downpipe.


Have you tried loosening the cab mounts and moving the cab backward? Or what about loosening the engine/trans mounts and moving them forward
I haven't thought about that yet... However I thought about redoing that part of the floor in the cab provided that the seam is below the dash. I would be pretty easy especially with a plasma torch and I have some sheet metal lying around. Might as well make the hole huge.

I wouldn't think it would be a big problem hitting the head. I'm more worried about the firewall/uppipe
 
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Old Nov 9, 2008 | 09:26 PM
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From: Ft Scott
If you can get a steel 15 gallon grease drum a section from the side makes a nice "cathedral" for the floorboard and the rib adds some strength.
 
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Old Nov 9, 2008 | 09:28 PM
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Originally Posted by BlueMule
If you can get a steel 15 gallon grease drum a section from the side makes a nice "cathedral" for the floorboard and the rib adds some strength.
Blue you can be serious???

The floorboard idea sounds like a decent one to me...
 
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Old Nov 10, 2008 | 09:04 AM
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Originally Posted by FARM69
Doghouse will have to be relocated. I'm probably drill a hole towards the front on the vc for it later.

The intake will have to be reduced to 3.5 to clear the valve cover. I know, bummer. Shouldn't be too big of a restriction because the id of the turbo inlet is 3".

I used the h2e kit oil return line. There is a almost horizontal stop in it, but the oil should be able to drain out of the turbo housing so seepage should not be a problem.

The downpipe is currently hitting the top of the head and upipe. I can't make it fit without hitting anything. It's just too tight. I wouldn't think that should be a problem.

I'll keep my eyes out TJ.

Oh yeah... I didn't post the picture of the cummins hauling the stroker through town. I'd like to keep the spirit high around here lol.
As I mentioned earlier. HOOD STACK. LOL

Seriously that looks good. And I don't understand why you will have to drill the VC. The intake should sit with the ccv connection in the factory location. I cut off the ccv connection on mine. I will admit the intake pipe is not designed very well but it can fit wit the 4" connection.
 
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Old Nov 10, 2008 | 09:19 AM
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Neal, the doghouse will have to be relocated. I'm not sure if I can even fit a 3 1/2 pipe in there to fit over the valve cover. The outside diameter of the turbo inlet is 4" and with it sitting so low it's going to make it a challenge.

I was thinking of finding a short intercooler boot 4" to 3 1/2" to to fit right next the the turbo so I can get it over the valve cover, then bring it back to 4 inch.

I've contemplated the hood stack. However, I don't think it would fly around here. It would look pretty cool and sound amazing though.
 
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