I know it sounds like a lot of work, but if I had problems with both tanks I would pull the bed.

If you go the drop the tank route, wear saftey glasses.

You will get a very close look at the dirt I am talking about, laying on the safety glasses and your face.

 

ok i feel really stupid i have been beating myself up trying to remedy this and just looked at the mechanical pump there is an inlet and an outlet i only unhooked one hose when i removed it could all this be caused by a hose slipping off and me hooking up the wrong hose to the electric pump?if so what do i need to do with the other hose i know one is an inlet and one is the outlet i obviously have the wrong one hooked up what is the other one for do i need to plug it?

 

Josh, if you look at the lift pump there is actually only one hose connected to it, it runs from the steel line on the frame of the truck to the lift pump, the outlet of the lift pump in its stock setup is a steel line going up to the fuel filter. With the electric pump you need to run a hose from the steel line on truck's framerail to the e-pump's inlet, then another hose from the e-pump's outlet to your inline filter and then to the IP feed line. Make sense?

 

ok your right i just got excited hoping it was a simple fix.crap!!! thats how i have it hooked up with the e-pump bolted to the inner fender.

 

One thing I see here that could also be a problem.

Electric pumps.....all pumps are better at pushing something than pulling it.

The stock pump sets low so it is almost even with the fuel level in the tank.
The higher above the fuel level you get, the harder the pump has to work to pull the fuel up.

The mount on the inner fender, may be why you are getting foam instead of fuel.

The most common place for an E pump to be installed is right in front of the tank selector valve, which puts the pump at or below the level of the fuel in the tank.

 

ok i was headed home from work one day and i was pulling into my parking lot at home and the truck died it shifted hard right before it died.i just let it sit for 5 minutes while i thought about it then i fired it back up ran rough for a few seconds though.parked it jumped in the next morning and drove down the interstate the next morning and made it 10 or so miles and it shut down.also on the 10 mile trip it stuttered twice.it resulted in a $100 tow bill.put an inline fuel filter on and drove it to work(about 8 miles) drove home and it died twice on the way home and i got it fired up good enough to get me home but i rode the pedal all the way in second gear to keep the rpms up just in case.so what do ya all think that the fuel line fills up and gives me 10 miles or?

 

so should i swap the pump to the rear or put in two pumps?i was thinking about 2 pumps anyway but would that put out too much pressure

 

A single pump that can maintain 6 pounds pressure at the IP and flow more than 30 gallons per hour is all you need.

Most of that fuel will be returned to the tank so it can cool the injectors and IP.

I think moving the pump lower, near the stock location is going to help.
The higher it has to suck fuel, the more vacuum it takes to get the fuel up there.
The higher the vacuum, the more trouble you aill have with air leaking into the fuel system.

 

that may help or cure my air intrusion problem as well.dave i swear you cant be stumped.haha you are definatly the guru around here.ill try the swap tomorrow after work and see what i get.now i just gotta figure out why my front tank is throwin fuel to the back tank.

 

Mine's right in front of the selector valve on the frame rail.
Clear in-line filter before it and NAPA filter/waterseperator after it.

Not really using it yet but that's where it is.

 

i just read an article about a guy who swapped his selector cause it went bad and said when he unhooked it a bunch of black stuff came out could the selector be the issue still?or do i bounce back and forth between possibilitys to much?lol. you guys are probably gettin tired of helping me troubleshoot.cause my head is killing me tryin to figure this out.

 

All you have to do is own one for a long time and break a lot of parts.
You will be right where I am now as far as knowledge goes.

I will also admit, I learned a lot when I tried to install a reman motor.
I broke and tore down 4 reman motors in less than two years.
Then I built one from a salvage yard, and went a bit over the line when I built it.
So far so good, I am over 40K now.

 

Age in years?
Belt length?
Weight after the Super Bowl Party?
Dollars invested?
Miles on the motor?

Sorry Dave, sometimes I just CAN NOT resist

 

wow 4 remans?you have literally paid for your knowledge thats about what $7000 a pop?

 

found this post interestin sounds kinda like my issue including the front tank bleeding back issue
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...ver-valve.html