Hard Start-Long Cranking
#1
Hard Start-Long Cranking
When I go to start my truck(02 7.3 Excursion) it is recently taking a good 4-6 seconds of cranking to start. Once it does though it runs fine. I am thinking it could be because the glow plugs are going bad? It has enough oil, been through that already. What should I start with?
#2
When I go to start my truck(02 7.3 Excursion) it is recently taking a good 4-6 seconds of cranking to start. Once it does though it runs fine. I am thinking it could be because the glow plugs are going bad? It has enough oil, been through that already. What should I start with?
Clamp a jumper cable clamp in the two large posts on the GPR If you have a controller ,,then If it was bad ,may set a light ...
#3
I'm with Rick. I thought the Ex's all came with the GPCM which should set a light for either a bad glow plug or a bad controller.
What happens if you leave the key on for 20 - 30 seconds before you try to start in the mornings? Does it start any better that way? If not, you could ohm the glow plugs to get readings on them.
What happens if you leave the key on for 20 - 30 seconds before you try to start in the mornings? Does it start any better that way? If not, you could ohm the glow plugs to get readings on them.
#5
Put a voltage meter on the 12 volt system. Turn the key to on...the voltage should read 12 to 12.4 with the key off, 11 to 11.5 with the key on (if the glow plugs are working) and not drop below 10 while cranking (provided the batteries and starter are good). Problems like this require a systematic approach to trouble shoot. This test will at least get you in the right place to look. Weak batteries, poor cable connections, bad starter, bad glow plugs or bad glow plug relay can all cause your symptoms. You just have to check them all till you find the culprit.
Jim
Jim
#6
#7
GPCM is the glow plug control module installed on CA emissions trucks (99.5 & later) and excursions. GPR is the glow plug relay and looks like this
Either one is basically just a switch that sends power from the battery to the glow plugs. The wire with the rubber boot over it is the battery feed. The other large post is what sends the voltage to the glow plugs when the "switch" is thrown. You can hold a screwdriver across the 2 large posts for 30 seconds before you try to start the truck. If it fires right up after that, you probably need a new GPR. You can also check voltage output immediately after the key is turned to the ON position.
Either one is basically just a switch that sends power from the battery to the glow plugs. The wire with the rubber boot over it is the battery feed. The other large post is what sends the voltage to the glow plugs when the "switch" is thrown. You can hold a screwdriver across the 2 large posts for 30 seconds before you try to start the truck. If it fires right up after that, you probably need a new GPR. You can also check voltage output immediately after the key is turned to the ON position.
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#8
#9
If you're going to replace it, and never want to do it again, see this:
Welcome to guzzle's Stancor GPR replacement Mod Web Page
About $45 here:
http://www.mouser.com/search/Product...key802-586-902
None of that cheap copper stuff, they're SILVER!
Pop
Welcome to guzzle's Stancor GPR replacement Mod Web Page
About $45 here:
http://www.mouser.com/search/Product...key802-586-902
None of that cheap copper stuff, they're SILVER!
Pop
#10
GPCM is the glow plug control module installed on CA emissions trucks (99.5 & later) and excursions. GPR is the glow plug relay and looks like this
Either one is basically just a switch that sends power from the battery to the glow plugs. The wire with the rubber boot over it is the battery feed. The other large post is what sends the voltage to the glow plugs when the "switch" is thrown. You can hold a screwdriver across the 2 large posts for 30 seconds before you try to start the truck. If it fires right up after that, you probably need a new GPR. You can also check voltage output immediately after the key is turned to the ON position.
Either one is basically just a switch that sends power from the battery to the glow plugs. The wire with the rubber boot over it is the battery feed. The other large post is what sends the voltage to the glow plugs when the "switch" is thrown. You can hold a screwdriver across the 2 large posts for 30 seconds before you try to start the truck. If it fires right up after that, you probably need a new GPR. You can also check voltage output immediately after the key is turned to the ON position.
Does that mean I'm in jail?...