help
i have a 01 f350 ...my key chime stays on when keys are in ignition, my compass/mileage (LED read out) quit working and my cruis control does not work....any suggestions...thanks alot....tom
Update: Have a look at this thread for your overhead computer: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/4...-gone-out.html
Detailed instructions are in there on how to fix it.
For the key chime, you'll need to remove the plastic cover over the steering column. Remove the 3 phillips head screws from the bottom side, unscrew your tilt lever, then remove at least the bottom piece. You'll see a wire running on the outside of the key cylinder that clips on. See if that clip has just come loose, or if it broke. It may help to remove the key cylinder to look at this, which involves removing the top half of the column cover (it's already loose at this point), turning your key to the "ON" position, pressing the little indent on the bottom of the column, and pulling the cylinder out. At this point, either put the clip back in place, or if you don't want to hear the door dinger ever again, tape over the metal contact on the clip or just cut the wire and remove the clip. The dinger activates when that wire grounds so tape up the end of the wire if you remove the clip.
Overhead console repair is here https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...&albumid=19462
For the cruise control, you need to tell us if you have a gas or diesel engine since the diagnosis is different for both of them. Also is it a stick or auto tranny?
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Next, you're lucky, because unlike us diesel guys, you don't need a special scanner to run a switch test.
Self-Test Diagnostics — Excursion, Super Duty
WARNING: This test is a key on engine off (KOEO) test only that is conducted in park only with emergency brake fully engaged.
Enter Self-Test Diagnostics by depressing the speed control OFF switch while turning the ignition key ON, making sure the engine does not start and is not running. The speed control indicator on the instrument panel will flash once to indicate that speed control module entered the diagnostic mode. FIVE ADDITIONAL FLASHES AT THIS POINT INDICATE A DEFECTIVE SPEED CONTROL SERVO. Release the OFF switch.
Press the remaining switches in this sequence: ON, RESUME, COAST and SET/ACCEL.
IF THE "ON" SWITCH IS NOT DEPRESSED WITHIN FIVE SECONDS AFTER ENTERING THE DIAGNOSTICS MODE, THE MODULE TIMES OUT AND THE PROCEDURE MUST BE STARTED OVER.
The speed control indicator lamp will flash as each switch is depressed. Press each switch in the sequence immediately after the indicator light goes out for the previous switch.
A lamp flash with the last button (SET/ACCEL) indicates that the STATIC test passed. If the lamp does not flash with the last button and there are no additional flashes of the lamp, the switch is defective.
If the lamp does not flash with the last button, and additional flashes occur, follow the chart below for trouble codes:
2 Flashes - BPP defective, circuit is defective, brake applied, CPP switch or jumper (if equipped).
3 Flashes - Deactivator switch is open or circuit defective.
4 Flashes - Vehicle speed signal is out of range or circuit is defective.
Immediately after the STATIC test, the speed control servo does a DYNAMIC test by automatically actuating the throttle lever from 8 mm (0.315 in) to 12 mm (0.472 in) of travel from the idle position. During the DYNAMIC throttle pull, observe throttle movement to witness any binding or sticking of the speed control cable and correct connection of speed control cable to throttle lever. Make sure the THROTTLE RETURNS BACK TO IDLE POSITION.
Return ignition switch to the OFF position and proceed to the Symptom Chart.
Let us know how many flashes you get (if any) and we'll find the proper pinpoint test to check from there.
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I haven't worked on the gas engines, so I've never done the self test, but since the light is supposed to flash each time you press one of those buttons, it sounds like there may be an issue with the buttons or wiring.
If no one comes up with a better idea, and you still can't get the self test to work, I'd say the next step would be to check for continuity in the wiring across the clock spring, and check the switch function.
To check the wiring and switch, you'll need to remove the air bag. Instructions are here https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...l-removal.html
You'll just need to ohm the wires or check for continuity between the plug at the cruise switches and the plug under the dash to make sure there's not a short.
The other possibility is a bad switch. Here's a link on how someone fixed one of their switches. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...3l-diesel.html




