POR 15 does it really work?
More Turbo
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 679
Likes: 3
From: Vancouver B.C.
por-15 is a moisture activated paint that sucks the h2o outa the rust thus taking away 1 of the 3 things needed for rust to form. I used it on my truck and I think its great... If I remember correctly I wire brushed ( 8'' wire wheel on my grinder) then de-greased (I used there marine clean, great product!) then used metal-ready( removes loose rust and etches bare metal), hose off and let air dry. the surface has to be dry! and you cannot let any moisture into the can of paint. If you let even a drop of sweat fall into the can it's ruined. I used it on my frame, put on by brush and man what a difference. They say you should paint over it if it's going to get direct sunlight( I didn't)... although sun wont hurt it it will cause it to fade. no I'm not a spokesperson for por-15 I just really liked it. google por-15 and youl find the procedure to use it properly. and good luck!
P.S. ware gloves and some clothe you don't care for... this stuff is impossible to get off of skin
have a look in my galery and you can see what it looks like...think is under front clip install
P.S. ware gloves and some clothe you don't care for... this stuff is impossible to get off of skin
have a look in my galery and you can see what it looks like...think is under front clip install
Super Moderator
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 208,495
Likes: 410
From: Omaha/Elkhorn, NE
I know Eastwood has a rust encapsulator that they sell. I'm trying to decide what/how I'm going to do the frame on my 67. I'm going to sandblast it, I'm wondering if I should use something like POR-15, after I sandblast, and then paint over that.
More Turbo
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 679
Likes: 3
From: Vancouver B.C.
ya that might work... if you go to the por-15 web site they say the only way it can inhibit rust is if it's in direct contact with the metal
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 3,587
Likes: 0
From: Virginia Beach
Well, if you want to try out POR 15 like I did. . .order there "Super Starter Kit" which includes samples of there complete system. It also has gloves, instructions, and brushes. It's like $20 and covers 12 square. The stuff is water thin, and a little goes a long way. I did 2 coats on my dana 60 front axle housing with the first kit and had to toss 1/4 of the can. Second kit did everything else (knuckles, caliper brackets, diff cover, hubs, etc.) and I have 3/4 of the can in the fridge for later use 
So far, I'm impressed with it's application and set up. The finish is rock hard as claimed. Top coating is a pain. The axle I left black, but the other parts I want to paint and it has taken a bit of priming (via the instructions) and more sanding and prep work than I would normally do
I should also note that I performed the same basic prep work on my '78 truck frame/axles/springs. I power washed, treated with some cheap "Ospho" knock off, and then 2 coats of inexpensive Sherwin Williams Industrial Enamel. So far it's held up sitting outside in the yard for 3 years with no more rust
Except where I couldn't reach with paint 
So far, I'm impressed with it's application and set up. The finish is rock hard as claimed. Top coating is a pain. The axle I left black, but the other parts I want to paint and it has taken a bit of priming (via the instructions) and more sanding and prep work than I would normally do
I should also note that I performed the same basic prep work on my '78 truck frame/axles/springs. I power washed, treated with some cheap "Ospho" knock off, and then 2 coats of inexpensive Sherwin Williams Industrial Enamel. So far it's held up sitting outside in the yard for 3 years with no more rust
Except where I couldn't reach with paint
FTE Legend
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 54,004
Likes: 2,400
From: NY and VA
I've used P-15 for years with good results. Just for kicks I dabbed some on a rusty valve cover with no prep. It's been sitting outside for 6 yrs or so and has faded but no rust showing through. A hint for painting over Por-15: BEFORE it dries and is still tacky spray primer over the surface. This way you can put on ant color you want without a whole lot of prep. The rust protection is still there.
Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,347
Likes: 0
POR 15 is the best...I used the stuff from Eastwood once...forget about it...it sucked. As far as top coating POR, as long as you prime over the POR when its still tacky yet, then topcoating wont be a problem. Once you wait for it to dry, then your gonna have some work ahead of you.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 3,014
Likes: 91
From: Concord, CA
A while back I tried POR-15 on a ship deck to seal some rust after chipping all loose rust off that was possible. It was then topcoated and a year later rust was coming back through. Enough with POR-15. Now rust is chipped, or wire brushed, or both before being coated with a rust converter (I use Eastwood), next top coated with rust encapsulator and then the color coat of haze or deck gray. No rust has ever come back after this treatment and it is the only way I ever go now especially in a marine enviroment. Naturally it is used that way on cars if need be although my California cars have little in the way of rust to begin with.
More Turbo
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 679
Likes: 3
From: Vancouver B.C.
A while back I tried POR-15 on a ship deck to seal some rust after chipping all loose rust off that was possible. It was then topcoated and a year later rust was coming back through. Enough with POR-15. Now rust is chipped, or wire brushed, or both before being coated with a rust converter (I use Eastwood), next top coated with rust encapsulator and then the color coat of haze or deck gray. No rust has ever come back after this treatment and it is the only way I ever go now especially in a marine enviroment. Naturally it is used that way on cars if need be although my California cars have little in the way of rust to begin with.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 3,014
Likes: 91
From: Concord, CA
Oh, it was done by the book as it was one of their starter kits that had everything you needed to do a small area. What was left was taken to the toxic waste recycle center. The Eastwood combo has been going on 3 years and no rust in the areas treated. I much rather convert the rust instead of just sealing it over and waiting to see if it holds up for 10 years at a minmum. That includes being able to stand up to standing water over the rainy season before drying out.
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 4,525
Likes: 1
From: oh
These ecapsulating paints work by (sealing out oxygen) and all them work--but at different levels.
I use por15---but prefer EPOXY for most panels and whole vehicles.
CHASSIS-SAVER is another ecapsulating paint and is cheaper than the others.
It works very well--and if you use a sponge brush --no brush marks. I use a hvlp harbor freight paint gun.15.00 dollars.
RUST NEVER SLEEPS......and we can only slow it down or cut it out or remove it!!
I sandblast/epoxy/high build primer/paint/clear/and only por15 small areas or floor boards.
Bill
I use por15---but prefer EPOXY for most panels and whole vehicles.
CHASSIS-SAVER is another ecapsulating paint and is cheaper than the others.
It works very well--and if you use a sponge brush --no brush marks. I use a hvlp harbor freight paint gun.15.00 dollars.
RUST NEVER SLEEPS......and we can only slow it down or cut it out or remove it!!
I sandblast/epoxy/high build primer/paint/clear/and only por15 small areas or floor boards.
Bill