When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
More progress on the home front, or is it rear?
Got the boxing plates finish welded and ground and mounted the Shockwaves yesterday. It is now suspending itself. Yay!!!
More views in my November progress gallery.
The welds may not be very pretty but they are strong. The 2x4 x-member is 1/4" thick rectangular tube steel. The comealong strap keeps the rear cross member in place and stops the frame rails from spreading untill I can bolt it and the fuel tank brace in.
That part of the project is a little further down the road.
Come on down! If the show keeps growing, they will have to find some more room for it, there were 505 vehicles this year. We had a ball showing off the 53 and my home made teardrop trailer.
note that for airbags/springs, when you get closer to road time, you either need TWO valves per bag (1 up and 1 down), OR you need 2 valves total shared (one air line to both bags), 1 up and 1 down AND a sway bar to keep the air from flowing between the bags on turns.. (I didn't know that on my airbag rear with 1 shared valve setup)
1 up and 1 down AND a sway bar to keep the air from flowing...
Yeah, the schrader valve kit is temporary. I plan to have separate valves for each side in the rear and a sway bar also.
I have given up on trying to adapt the E-250 front sway bar to the rear. Too wide for the tires an wheels I want to use. Now that the leaf springs are not there, the plan is to tub the bed and then I can tuck wider wheels under there and keep them within the fenders. That calls for a different sway bar setup.
I used a Hotchkis 7/8in Camaro bar in the back, about 2 inches narrower than the chassis at the rear axle. short arms.. (room inside my triangulated rear) I bought a couple heim racing drop links and drilled thru the frame & boxing plate to provide the chassis side bolt.
I found one used (never installed) for about $150.
That Lincoln diff you have, is it symmetrical? It looks like it in the picture in your gallery. My old 9" is not. The pumpkin is offset to the passengers side by an inch or two. See my gallery for the August progress pics and you can see how much offset it is.
Now I am thinking that bar from the Bronco II may not work. It appears a bit narrow in the arch that goes around the pinion support. I would have to offset it to the right I think. Either that or get creative with the mount and attach it to the frame or a cross member instead of the Diff.
Number Dummy says the diff in my truck is a 1965 HD unit. From a T-bird, station wagon or police cruiser.
I may end up having to use some sort of torsion bar like they have in sprint cars that attaches to the frame behind the shockwave x-member and goes around them on the outside wtih arms that mount to the diff outside the frame rails.
Looks great, Grizz!! You've been busy since I've been there...wish I could say the same. I got the axle out of my rear end tonight, and it has 3" brakes. Hmmm. NAPA doesn't show a 3" on a F250 - just on an F350. So, perhaps I have a 350 rear end. Guess I'll have to check the numbers on the tag - I know it came off of a 250, so guess it's been changed before. Can't see any reason it won't work - the spring perches are identical, and the width is correct. Maybe some drive shaft difficulties, but I have to shorten it anyway. But, if it will work, it will be nice, because the drums are freshly turned!
Great work - keep it up. Who knows, maybe we'll be able to "go out in style" next time I'm out there!
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.