Used hood
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Junior User
Joined: Mar 2008
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From: Sterling, CT
Used hood
I was at a swap meet yesterday, and picked a hood in great shape for my 77 f250
The only problem is that it looks like it had clear coat shot on it and it is starting to peel in some places
What is my best bet to get that down to bare metal? Or do I need to take it down to bare metal?
On the inside of the hood I was figuring on using a wire wheel, the paint around the supports is flaking really bad.
I also have pin striping on my f250 that I dont want to show up on my new paint (when the time comes). What should I do to get rid of the pin stripes?
I would appreciate any help
Can Do
The only problem is that it looks like it had clear coat shot on it and it is starting to peel in some placesWhat is my best bet to get that down to bare metal? Or do I need to take it down to bare metal?On the inside of the hood I was figuring on using a wire wheel, the paint around the supports is flaking really bad.I also have pin striping on my f250 that I dont want to show up on my new paint (when the time comes). What should I do to get rid of the pin stripes?I would appreciate any help
Can Do
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Joined: Nov 2003
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From: green bay, WI
Your best bet is taking that down to metal, that way as long as you do your prep properly and follow product recommenations, you are not taking any chances of the old finish failing and in turn making your new paint fail. Your new paint job is only as good as what it is put over.
If going down to metal, you should start with a direct to metal type primer, preferably epoxy. Depends on the conditon of the hood, you may only need the epoxy or you may then use a urethane build primer if you have quite a few bodywork areas, and would like the added fill and easy sanding. Use good 2k products and you should have a long lasting finish that won't require a lot of maitenance.
You should at the very least take off the peeling clearcoat, and I would then shoot an epoxy as a sealer prior to paint as cheap added insurance.
People have there prefered methods of removing the paint. For large exterior surfaces like your hood, I prefer sanding off using an 8" orbital sander, such as national detroit 900. Really with one of these you would really have to go nuts in a spot to heat up the metal enough to warp it. Some may frown on it, but I get the bulk off with a 36 grit and the switch to 80 grit on a dual action sander to finish. Just try to avoid hitting too much metal with the 36 grit and removing much metal or leaving a lot of scratches to go over and remove with the 80. Once your down to 80, you are ready for primer or any bodywork (you can also do any bodyfiller work over the epoxy and reprime, which is what I prefer)
There is also paint stripper or someone experience enough in media blasting that won't warp the metal and make junk out of it. Paint stripper is messy and caustic, and don't like it because of the possibility of getting caught up in a seam somewhere and coming back to bite you later. But for the exterior of the hood thats removed, getting caught in a seam somewhere isn't much of an issue. You can also tape off any seam areas.
For the interior of the hood, If I were doing it, I would probably blast the majority of it, and seal and paint within the time window of the sealer. Brace areas should be fairly strong and not real subject to warping.
Or remove what you can with 80 on a da sander, and a lot of tedious hand sanding in areas it can't get. If you sand 80 or finer, you should be able to then just epoxy seal, allow proper set time, and paint without having to resand.
I personally try to avoid using stripper on areas like under the hood, because of all the seams it could get caught up in and not neautralized, but sometimes will in areas I can't machine sand to remove most of it, and then go back and hand sand the areas after using the stripper to get off the little remaining or rough up the surface.
If you intend to use a wire wheel for getting into some harder to reach areas, I would look instead at the brown scotchbrite disks from 3m you use a backing pad with and put into a small air angle grinder (harbor freight has ch models cheap that seem to work and hold up pretty well if you don't have one). The scotchbrite disk seem to work much better then a wire wheel and won't polish the surface like a wire wheel seems to tend to do)
As far as the pinstripes are they painted on or vinyl? If painted on you could sand them off and prime, since you are painting the truck. Sometimes hand painted ones will also wipe off with something like lacquer thinner. If your truck has clearcoat, I assume it has a more modern 2k finish that was applied at some point after factory finish. An older 1k finish could soften and wipe off some when wiping with lacquer thinner.
If vinyl then heating with a heat gun before pulling off the stripe usually helps. You can then wipe off glue residue left behind with a solvent such as lacquer thinner. If painting you could also sand off or use a razor scrapper to remove. They also make a tool for removing pinstripes. they actually work. Just picking a random site, you should be able to find one at an autobody supplier. 3M 7502 - Disc Pinstripe Removal
If going down to metal, you should start with a direct to metal type primer, preferably epoxy. Depends on the conditon of the hood, you may only need the epoxy or you may then use a urethane build primer if you have quite a few bodywork areas, and would like the added fill and easy sanding. Use good 2k products and you should have a long lasting finish that won't require a lot of maitenance.
You should at the very least take off the peeling clearcoat, and I would then shoot an epoxy as a sealer prior to paint as cheap added insurance.
People have there prefered methods of removing the paint. For large exterior surfaces like your hood, I prefer sanding off using an 8" orbital sander, such as national detroit 900. Really with one of these you would really have to go nuts in a spot to heat up the metal enough to warp it. Some may frown on it, but I get the bulk off with a 36 grit and the switch to 80 grit on a dual action sander to finish. Just try to avoid hitting too much metal with the 36 grit and removing much metal or leaving a lot of scratches to go over and remove with the 80. Once your down to 80, you are ready for primer or any bodywork (you can also do any bodyfiller work over the epoxy and reprime, which is what I prefer)
There is also paint stripper or someone experience enough in media blasting that won't warp the metal and make junk out of it. Paint stripper is messy and caustic, and don't like it because of the possibility of getting caught up in a seam somewhere and coming back to bite you later. But for the exterior of the hood thats removed, getting caught in a seam somewhere isn't much of an issue. You can also tape off any seam areas.
For the interior of the hood, If I were doing it, I would probably blast the majority of it, and seal and paint within the time window of the sealer. Brace areas should be fairly strong and not real subject to warping.
Or remove what you can with 80 on a da sander, and a lot of tedious hand sanding in areas it can't get. If you sand 80 or finer, you should be able to then just epoxy seal, allow proper set time, and paint without having to resand.
I personally try to avoid using stripper on areas like under the hood, because of all the seams it could get caught up in and not neautralized, but sometimes will in areas I can't machine sand to remove most of it, and then go back and hand sand the areas after using the stripper to get off the little remaining or rough up the surface.
If you intend to use a wire wheel for getting into some harder to reach areas, I would look instead at the brown scotchbrite disks from 3m you use a backing pad with and put into a small air angle grinder (harbor freight has ch models cheap that seem to work and hold up pretty well if you don't have one). The scotchbrite disk seem to work much better then a wire wheel and won't polish the surface like a wire wheel seems to tend to do)
As far as the pinstripes are they painted on or vinyl? If painted on you could sand them off and prime, since you are painting the truck. Sometimes hand painted ones will also wipe off with something like lacquer thinner. If your truck has clearcoat, I assume it has a more modern 2k finish that was applied at some point after factory finish. An older 1k finish could soften and wipe off some when wiping with lacquer thinner.
If vinyl then heating with a heat gun before pulling off the stripe usually helps. You can then wipe off glue residue left behind with a solvent such as lacquer thinner. If painting you could also sand off or use a razor scrapper to remove. They also make a tool for removing pinstripes. they actually work. Just picking a random site, you should be able to find one at an autobody supplier. 3M 7502 - Disc Pinstripe Removal
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Junior User
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 54
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From: Sterling, CT
The pin stripes were applied by hand painting approx. 18 years ago. I suspect they were clear coated after the fact.
By the way i forgot to mention
the base coat has metal flake in it.
Can do
By the way i forgot to mention
the base coat has metal flake in it.Can do
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