Had to since deer season is coming fast 
Hey Mike (Tenn)...
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 11,892
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From: Middle Tennessee
Good to hear Jason. Ya gonna tell us how it works? Do you like it? I know I am curious about what differences it made.
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Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2004
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I will say it is a little more work than I thought. I don't know how anyone would try install with the turbo in the truck. With my DIY bleed-off kit I would get about a 4 lbs drop in fuel pressure with the valve in my return line open and closed. With the RR I get a quick drop of about 3 lbs but it seems to recover right back up where the DIY kit would not recover. This is while running 65 and getting into it up to about 85 and 90. Even with the 1.0 housing added to the TN high-flow outlet it seems to light faster from a slow roll. As in seems to light before the TQ locks which surprised me. On cold/first start of the day, the cackle seems to clear up in 3 or 4 minutes of idle. About the same as my DIY kit. But once the cackle clears, it sounds a slight bit quieter.
Now for a possible negative. I started out last night at 61.5 lbs at idle. Let the cackle clear up and turned it up to 63. I'm getting longer cranks to start now. Not every time but a few times since last night. Which is significant since it was very far and few between with the DIY kit.
Edit: My DIY kit idled around 59.9 with return valve open and closed. That always confused me.
Now for a possible negative. I started out last night at 61.5 lbs at idle. Let the cackle clear up and turned it up to 63. I'm getting longer cranks to start now. Not every time but a few times since last night. Which is significant since it was very far and few between with the DIY kit.
Edit: My DIY kit idled around 59.9 with return valve open and closed. That always confused me.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 11,892
Likes: 2
From: Middle Tennessee
Now for a possible negative. I started out last night at 61.5 lbs at idle. Let the cackle clear up and turned it up to 63. I'm getting longer cranks to start now. Not every time but a few times since last night. Which is significant since it was very far and few between with the DIY kit.
Edit: My DIY kit idled around 59.9 with return valve open and closed. That always confused me.
Edit: My DIY kit idled around 59.9 with return valve open and closed. That always confused me.
I guess the 1.0 housing is not going to get you as laggy as mine can be with the 1.15, I was just wondering if you noticed a bit of low end loss? You will certainly be able to make up for it up top safely and that is why the vans use it cause they have no IC.
IOW, mine is a bit laggy down low in daily driver type tunes, but if I put it in one of the higher HP settings, the extra fuel lights it up pretty quick. I was just wondering cause I really have no desire to install my 1.0 housing just to test it and end up with too much drive pressure and power down low. I should have just sold it to you but I had warranty worries in case I had to send it back.
As for the longer cranking to start, I would think you have driven the air out by now. Are you sure there is adequate fuel? Could there be a leak somewhere? Are you running the stock pump still? Maybe the new return is returning too much.
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Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2004
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Stock pump fed by a Carter. With the Scan Gauge I can see the pressure is within tenths of the regulator setting before I crank. The Scan Gauge has to go through it's little ritual when I turn the key. Which is just a couple seconds after the WTS goes out. Next time I drive it after it's warm, I'm going to just crank it. Before the RR I wouldn't wait for the WTS to go out and never had a long crank. That is if the weather next weekend is still reasonable. I wouldn't do it in colder weather.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 9,714
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From: White Mnt's,New Hampshire
good job Jason...I didn't get time to do my 1.00 exhaust housing this weekend..did get the EBPV gutted in the exhaust outlet..ill do the pedestal when it comes out..my WW didn't get here yet ether..just as well I guess..spent more time deleting the bowl that wasn't planed..but at least that's done now,, was yours the exhaust housing you did??
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Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2004
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I like the housing. A bit more whistle at the exhaust but not louder in the cab. The results I'm looking for is while towing. If I had the patients and youth to lay on the motor I would have done the RR and 1.0 mod separately. But for me with no shop and only one day to work on the truck, I had to do it all together. As I said in the other thread, I was surprised at how the turbo lights before TQ lock up. I was expecting a lag. I guess the extra fuel is the answer.
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 11,892
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From: Middle Tennessee
Not trying to be a d1ck, but I am not a fan of this. I believe in one solid pump to serve the purpose.
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Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2004
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I think I agree. As part of the experiment, I think I will use my existing Carter to a transfer pump out of my 36 gallon in bed tank and see if there is any difference without it. If there isn't any difference I will look into that pump Charles is running
I can't think of it off the top of my head but it sounds like the shnizzle.
I can't think of it off the top of my head but it sounds like the shnizzle.