I didnt get the hood that came with the new solenoid.Just like the older one.So I wrapped the solenoid in aluminum foil.Hopefully that will work.I would appreciate the part number though&thanks

 

I know this is posted on another thread but I think it is related to this one as well.

I recently went thru the same thing but started in a different way and led me here from another thread. My 4X4 Hi light would only flash on and go out so I took it to the dealership to be fixed under warrantee. The first thing they did was replaced the transfer case motor. Not sure why but the mechanic said 4 wheel drive was not working. So then I drove it to a gravel part of the parking lot, put it in 4wd and the light flashes once and out. I take it back and tell them that it is still not working and then they replace the vacuum solenoid with the new upgraded “shielded” one and everything works fine. I asked the mechanic if there was water contamination in the lines and he said it looked like there was and he followed the TSB to blow out the lines and put them back on. As I am driving home about an hour later I here awful grinding sounds from the front end. From all the info I have read here on FTE I know it is my IWE’s. So I call the dealership back and tell them what was going on and he said I need to bring it right back, 100 miles, and they would give me a loner till they can get this all fixed the way it should be. Thank god for the warrantee that came with my used truck or I would be screwed. They called the next day (today) and said that there was a faulty check valve in the system. So that brings up another question. My understanding of the system is that a vacuum is pulled to keep the IWE’s from locking, so, when your truck is off are you then in 4WD? Seems kind of backwards to me.

CCB
_______________
2004 F150 5.4l SCREW Lariat
1997 Expedition 5.4l E.B.

 

Boy am I glad i revisited this thread, CCBennett, I am having the same problem. I had already replaced the solenoid, and the drivers side IWE actuator. Did they show you the checkvalve when you picked it up? or do you have the part number on the workorder they gave you. I want to replace mine. Driving me nuts hearing it grind, I'm ok on flat road, but climbing even a slight grade will make it grind.

 

Nope. I have not picked it up yet. Unfortunately the part will not be in until Monday so I won’t have my truck till then. I will get that info for you then. Also, since it is under my used car warrantee I didn’t get a work order or anything like that. I don’t have to pay for anything. Until then I will drive my ’06 Taurus (loner).
CCB

 

Hi,
I am trying to debug this issue now on my 03 Expedition. I have the situation where the hubs try to engage while driving in 2WD. I checked the lines, check valves, vacuum box, etc. and they look OK but I need to check the actuators at the IWE hubs.
Is the IWE actuator a seperate part from the actual IWE hub or is it one part number? Also if it is seperate does anyone have the Ford part number for the actuator?
Thanks,
Gary

 

IWE actuator and hub are one in the same. Some call it one, some call it the other. The IWE actuator out at the wheel is actuall a ring that fits over the CV shaft at the wheel (behind the wheel bearing assembly) It is spring assisted. So when the truck is off or you are in 4WD there isnt any vacuum and the internal spring pushed the ring apart enough to lock the CV to the wheel. When the truck is on and not in 4WD, vacuum is exherted on the actuator and the ring is contracted together to unlock the CV from the wheel. When i redid my lines i just used check valves from the local parts store. You just have to make sure they are facing the right way, cause its real easy when your not really thinking about how the valve works to just throw it in backwards.

 

Ok, my '05 is doing the same thing, grinding noise at driver side hub, put in 4wd hi it goes away, switch back to 2wd sometimes it will clunk, other times it will start grinding again.

Checked the driver's side actuator and it held vacuum, checked the passenger actuator and it held vacuum. Hooked the hose back to the actuators and then went under the truck and found the inline line fitting for the driver's side. Hooked up the pump and it holds vacuum. Went over the solenoid and disconnected the fittings. Hooked up the pump to the hose to both wheels and it held vacuum. Hooked up the pump to the fitting from intake and vacuum, started the truck, got 25". Turned off the truck and the vacuum held. Hooked up the fitting back to the solenoid, but disconnected line to wheels, hooked up pump and started truck. Left in 2wd. gauge read 22" through the solenoid.

So based on my test the entire system is working, yet it still grinds. Is there anything else I can check?

 

Your entire system might be working fine and holding vacuum but the spring assisted actuator on your driver side might be gunked up inside and not letting the actuator release the entire way all the time. Either that or your solenoid is not working properly all the time.

 

Yeah I'm tempted to bypass the solenoid and hook the wheel line up to the intake line and go for a drive. If it grinds, it's the actuator. I've pulled up the repair proceedure, but it states I have to replace the wheel end nut, the tie rod nut and the upper ball joint nut as they are torque to yield.

 

I assume you could bypass the solenoid, i dont see what it would hurt, just to see if you get the grinding still. At least you would be able to tell real quick if its the solenoid or not.

 

Well I bypassed the solenoid, still grinds. Hit the 4x4 switch and when the half shaft turned a little the grinding stopped. Looks to be that actuator I was SO not in the mood to having to fix that

 

I realize that this thread is for the most part dead but I have a new issue that is related. My 2005 Expedition had a grinding noise, Bla bla bla, finally figured it out as my IWE Actuator. Here is the problem. I installed New CV Axel, New Hub Bearing, and a New Actuator. I saw how tight it was to get the end of the CV shaft out of the old actuator so I removed the steering knuckle so I would not chance damaging the new Actuator's seal. Everything is installed without a hitch, and I test the Actuator before bolting on the hub. I put 25 inches of vacuum on the gauge and the vacuum pulls the gear back onto the CV gear but not all the way. I put a little bit of pressure on it with my fingers and it snaps all the way in. It does this 5 or 6 times and don't see anything misaligned. There is considerable grease (from the Mfg) on all the parts and I can only surmise that the thick grease is making it resist drawing all the way back. I fully assemble the driver side and test the passenger side and it to has a bad Actuator also. Replace only the actuator and not the Hub Bearing or the CV axel. All put together and the passenger side works flawlessly and the Driver side will not disengage. I am leaving for a 1200 mile trip in a day and a half. My question has 2 parts, First I was told the one hub engaged is bad but both is fine. Is that true? Second if the above is true where I can disconnect the vacuum line so they will both engage until I get back and figure this out.


Nothing damaged and both actuators hold vacuum just fine, My test gauge shows the hoses on both sides are pulling 20 Inches of vacuum.

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If you have to pull a line to engage the system for a trip, i would pull the vacuum line off as close to the intake as possible. There is usually a check valve within the first foot of vacuum line off the intake, pull the line apart there a plug both side for your trip. Only side effect is a little less MPG.

 

Thanks XJ I will pull it at the check valve and try to figure this out on the 25th when I get back.