Roller on bedside
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Freshman User
Joined: Aug 2007
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Roller on bedside
Hello
I have bad bedsides on my F-100 -56, so i have to do new ones. Because i live in Sweden the be expensive too ship new once from USA. My problem is to do the roller in the top or get sombody to do that..
Are there anybody how know they do it (what machine)?
Maybe some picture.
Or is their anybody how has suggestion and pictures about another nice design instead of the roller.
I dont think i can weld a pipe instead because the heat, so that dont be straight.
Anders
I have bad bedsides on my F-100 -56, so i have to do new ones. Because i live in Sweden the be expensive too ship new once from USA. My problem is to do the roller in the top or get sombody to do that..
Are there anybody how know they do it (what machine)?
Maybe some picture.
Or is their anybody how has suggestion and pictures about another nice design instead of the roller.
I dont think i can weld a pipe instead because the heat, so that dont be straight.
Anders
Roast em' if you got 'em
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 22,000
Likes: 9,887
From: Rio Rancho, NM
You need to look up a fellow member on this board named tip49. Here is a link to his gallery;
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...?userid=223958
He's doing an awesome job building his bed. He had some flat pieces broke for the bed sides and then has welded some tubing to the top to mimic the rolled edge.
Hopefully he can give you some details
Bobby
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...?userid=223958
He's doing an awesome job building his bed. He had some flat pieces broke for the bed sides and then has welded some tubing to the top to mimic the rolled edge.
Hopefully he can give you some details
Bobby
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Westminster,Md
And if that doesn't pan out..alternate plan "B" might be to find someone or a local sheetmetal Fab Shop with an 7' brake, I've heard of some people cutting a 1.25" pipe lengthwise and installing it on place of the brake fingers to make that bend-and leave the rest flat. I;m sure someone local...or at least " in country " can make those two sides for you. Good Luck!
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Freshman User
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 34
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And if that doesn't pan out..alternate plan "B" might be to find someone or a local sheetmetal Fab Shop with an 7' brake, I've heard of some people cutting a 1.25" pipe lengthwise and installing it on place of the brake fingers to make that bend-and leave the rest flat. I;m sure someone local...or at least " in country " can make those two sides for you. Good Luck!
Anders
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,527
Likes: 2
From: Grande Prairie, Alberta
Check out the bed build by tip49. Here is the link
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...&albumid=30211
looks like I shoulda read past the fist post sorry Bobby.....I was trying to steal your thunder I guess.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...&albumid=30211
looks like I shoulda read past the fist post sorry Bobby.....I was trying to steal your thunder I guess.
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 2,958
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In theory (never seen it done) with sheet metal you could roll the top edge around a pipe using a torch for heat.
Not sure how much warping that would do though.
The welding a correct size pipe (with lots of bracing to keep it straight) seems like the easiest way.
Even if warped...it can all be staightened. It is just steel.
Not sure how much warping that would do though.
The welding a correct size pipe (with lots of bracing to keep it straight) seems like the easiest way.
Even if warped...it can all be staightened. It is just steel.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,527
Likes: 2
From: Grande Prairie, Alberta
Another option that may work would be to select a piece of pipe of the correct diameter, then cut a slot the length of the bed roll, insert the lip of the sheet steel into the slot, then get a couple of buddies and a couple pipe wrenches and the two one the ends with the pipe wrenches crank the slotted pipe while the third person maintains tension in the middle ensuring that the roll is being made evenly and the sheet remains in the slot. this would need to be done on a flat surface slightly elevated off the ground surface to allow clearance for the pipe wrenches? No heat required.
I've never tried it, but it should work.
I've never tried it, but it should work.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 2,757
Likes: 138
From: Alberta Canada
Besdside Build
Anders;
What kind of condition are the top rails in, could you salvage the rolled portion to where it kicks down to the sides ? Then if you had a machine shop brake the sides to the appropriate angle , try spot welding them to the top portions ? Wish I could illustrate what I mean. I kept my old box sides, and plan to build another box, sometime in the way distant future. I would have had a machine shop do all the bending but they did not have the ability to roll the top rail , then brake the sides. As others have stated, I welded 1 1/8" tubing to the sides, lots of tack welds, slow process. I have slight bow up on top rail from heat but overall I'm happy with the result.
Tom
What kind of condition are the top rails in, could you salvage the rolled portion to where it kicks down to the sides ? Then if you had a machine shop brake the sides to the appropriate angle , try spot welding them to the top portions ? Wish I could illustrate what I mean. I kept my old box sides, and plan to build another box, sometime in the way distant future. I would have had a machine shop do all the bending but they did not have the ability to roll the top rail , then brake the sides. As others have stated, I welded 1 1/8" tubing to the sides, lots of tack welds, slow process. I have slight bow up on top rail from heat but overall I'm happy with the result.
Tom
Cargo Master
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 2,757
Likes: 138
From: Alberta Canada
Classic Truck
Anders;
Did I see an arcticle on your buddy's truck in Classic Truck Magazine ?
As far as the top rail; I am goiing to cut the top portion, approximately 150mm below the top rail angle kick, which I would then fit over top of the sides that are braked at the same angle. This would hide the top edge of the braked side, leaving a lap over (100-150 mm) your choice; that you would spot weld the two surfaces together. It would not be period accurate, dependng if you are goiing for show quality, but you could also blend the two edges together, and fill. Just random thoughts of a fellow restoration addict.
Later
Tom
Did I see an arcticle on your buddy's truck in Classic Truck Magazine ?
As far as the top rail; I am goiing to cut the top portion, approximately 150mm below the top rail angle kick, which I would then fit over top of the sides that are braked at the same angle. This would hide the top edge of the braked side, leaving a lap over (100-150 mm) your choice; that you would spot weld the two surfaces together. It would not be period accurate, dependng if you are goiing for show quality, but you could also blend the two edges together, and fill. Just random thoughts of a fellow restoration addict.
Later
Tom
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