M.P.G. Update
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See A Man About A Horse
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 4,937
Likes: 700
From: Mariposa, Ca.
M.P.G. Update
My wife and I camped at Yosemite this weekend.On the way up,driving between 55-60,with a fairly heavy camper shell converted into a camper ,and loaded with gear (and the wife),my '59 F250 averaged about 14 m.p.g..On the return trip,driving at a steady 53 m.p.h.,we got 15.8 m.p.g..I am happy with this,and am guessing that I'd be getting somewhere around 18 if the bed was empty.I don't believe I can expect much more than this out of my 292.What do you think?Steve.
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Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Southern Oregon
Your mileage is pretty good Ibuzzard. It could be better with increased compression, but the 2-3K in motor work couldnt be made up in gas savings.
I am still hoping to have 24 mpg highway once the truck is back on the road. That would be in a 2600 lb truck, 3.00 rear, 9.1 CR, and a cam that is only a little bit larger than stock.
I am still hoping to have 24 mpg highway once the truck is back on the road. That would be in a 2600 lb truck, 3.00 rear, 9.1 CR, and a cam that is only a little bit larger than stock.
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See A Man About A Horse
Joined: Apr 2003
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From: Mariposa, Ca.
Kevin,do you know if there is much of a weight difference between an F100 and an F250?In my mind,I thought it would be minimal.The main "drag",I thought ,was the fairly high profile shell,which is heavy enough as it is without all the cabinetry,aux. battery,icebox,microwave,bed,etc..
flipklos,I do have headers and electronic ignition.Also,I recently had the diff. gears changed from 4.56 to 3.54.Plus my foot is as good as most peoples' cruise control. .In fact,I drive my family nuts with my go-slow ways.Oddly enough,few motorists give me a hard time.I think they expect an old truck to be driven slowly,and cut me some slack.I commute in it daily,about 50-60 miles
46yblock,I think I can live with the mileage.I am starting to compile parts to build another motor,with an eye toward a compromise that gives good mileage and adequate power.I'm going to find a 272 block,use C1TE heads,but will use a 4 bbl. intake/carb.Again,will use the same MSD Electronic distributor and 6A box.Gonna drive this motor till it dies,and put in the "new" spare.Steve
flipklos,I do have headers and electronic ignition.Also,I recently had the diff. gears changed from 4.56 to 3.54.Plus my foot is as good as most peoples' cruise control. .In fact,I drive my family nuts with my go-slow ways.Oddly enough,few motorists give me a hard time.I think they expect an old truck to be driven slowly,and cut me some slack.I commute in it daily,about 50-60 miles
46yblock,I think I can live with the mileage.I am starting to compile parts to build another motor,with an eye toward a compromise that gives good mileage and adequate power.I'm going to find a 272 block,use C1TE heads,but will use a 4 bbl. intake/carb.Again,will use the same MSD Electronic distributor and 6A box.Gonna drive this motor till it dies,and put in the "new" spare.Steve
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,398
Likes: 2
From: Davenport, IA
Not bad MPG at all considering the age and the weight!
You're sig. made me remember when I was down at the tip of Louisiana - all the houses down there were named like you would a boat. It annoyed me like crazy.
You're sig. made me remember when I was down at the tip of Louisiana - all the houses down there were named like you would a boat. It annoyed me like crazy.
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 4,525
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From: oh
ibuzzard--not bad!! I think the f100 is alittle heavier in suspension--but camping in the Mtns and near Yoesomite is awesome....did it in 2000 and loved it,and need to get out that way in 09.
I did the same in Cumberland gap this weekend--it was nice---leaves all turning color and hauled 2 dogs and wife and slept like a king. Nothing like camping outdoors. Getting cold around here and hope to get that kind of mileage also.
My 71 with 302 and c4 gets 18-20 mpg and is a great truck,but very light in rear-end. Needs some weight in back to be any good.
I did the same in Cumberland gap this weekend--it was nice---leaves all turning color and hauled 2 dogs and wife and slept like a king. Nothing like camping outdoors. Getting cold around here and hope to get that kind of mileage also.
My 71 with 302 and c4 gets 18-20 mpg and is a great truck,but very light in rear-end. Needs some weight in back to be any good.
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Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 2,688
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From: Southern Oregon
Kevin,do you know if there is much of a weight difference between an F100 and an F250?In my mind,I thought it would be minimal.The main "drag",I thought ,was the fairly high profile shell,which is heavy enough as it is without all the cabinetry,aux. battery,icebox,microwave,bed,etc..
flipklos,I do have headers and electronic ignition.Also,I recently had the diff. gears changed from 4.56 to 3.54.Plus my foot is as good as most peoples' cruise control. .In fact,I drive my family nuts with my go-slow ways.Oddly enough,few motorists give me a hard time.I think they expect an old truck to be driven slowly,and cut me some slack.I commute in it daily,about 50-60 miles
46yblock,I think I can live with the mileage.I am starting to compile parts to build another motor,with an eye toward a compromise that gives good mileage and adequate power.I'm going to find a 272 block,use C1TE heads,but will use a 4 bbl. intake/carb.Again,will use the same MSD Electronic distributor and 6A box.Gonna drive this motor till it dies,and put in the "new" spare.Steve
flipklos,I do have headers and electronic ignition.Also,I recently had the diff. gears changed from 4.56 to 3.54.Plus my foot is as good as most peoples' cruise control. .In fact,I drive my family nuts with my go-slow ways.Oddly enough,few motorists give me a hard time.I think they expect an old truck to be driven slowly,and cut me some slack.I commute in it daily,about 50-60 miles
46yblock,I think I can live with the mileage.I am starting to compile parts to build another motor,with an eye toward a compromise that gives good mileage and adequate power.I'm going to find a 272 block,use C1TE heads,but will use a 4 bbl. intake/carb.Again,will use the same MSD Electronic distributor and 6A box.Gonna drive this motor till it dies,and put in the "new" spare.Steve
There is a poss. that my 113 heads that are now in the shop will be ruined. If so I am going to use the C1tes also, but mill them .040, which will get back close to 9 to 1.
With the 113s the motor should be in the realm of 215 HP on a 2 barrel. With the CITEs probably 205. Both figures are fine with me.
Mike
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Joined: Mar 2002
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From: Boise, Idaho
I ended up with some C1TE heads when I bought a 292 recently. They have good quench and the spark plug boss would put the spark plug tip pretty far into the combustion chamber. As long as you zero-deck the pistons, they would be fine for heads.
If I ever rebuild the C1TE heads, I'll put some used 1.72 valves in place of the stock 1.64 intake valves. And, the heads I got came with Champion spark plugs in them. I know from experience that Autolite extended tip plugs work far better than the Champions. My 223 ran like crap with the Champions.
I'd try using the Duraspark conversion on a new y-block distributor instead of horsing around with a MSD.
And, be sure to degree the cam. I found wild differences in the timing chains for y-blocks. A cam that isn't timed right will ruin your power and economy. I ended up splurging on a RollMaster chain just to get it close. If you want to try to degree the stock chain, I think you can get an offset key from a Chevy 6 cylinder cam to fit the y-block. One of the aftermarket companies makes the part.
If I ever rebuild the C1TE heads, I'll put some used 1.72 valves in place of the stock 1.64 intake valves. And, the heads I got came with Champion spark plugs in them. I know from experience that Autolite extended tip plugs work far better than the Champions. My 223 ran like crap with the Champions.
I'd try using the Duraspark conversion on a new y-block distributor instead of horsing around with a MSD.
And, be sure to degree the cam. I found wild differences in the timing chains for y-blocks. A cam that isn't timed right will ruin your power and economy. I ended up splurging on a RollMaster chain just to get it close. If you want to try to degree the stock chain, I think you can get an offset key from a Chevy 6 cylinder cam to fit the y-block. One of the aftermarket companies makes the part.
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2008
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From: Rockwall TX
since yall are on the topic of gas millage and i am rather new to this hobby im gonna ask a stupid question here. i have a 59 f100 with a 292 and im about to have the carb rebuilt on it. it has a 2 barrel carb on it now and some one told me that if i switch to a 4 barrel carb id get better gas millage is this true
Thread Starter
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See A Man About A Horse
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 4,937
Likes: 700
From: Mariposa, Ca.
I am also thinking about making this change.The theory is that if you keep a light foot,and don't "get on it",you won't open the secondaries ,only the primaries.Since the primaries are smaller than those of the two barrel carb,you'd save fuel.I call it a theory because most of the guys I talked two said that ,in reality,if you've got the power available,you'll likely use it.I'm stubborn ,and think I can beat the odds,as I'm so cheap,er,thrifty.I am a member of the International Association of Slow Drivers.Some of the benefits are pissing people off,,a sense of power way out of proportion to actual H.P.,but mainly I do it for economy,and saving fuel helps me afford using a 49 year old truck as a daily driver.Steve.
Thread Starter
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See A Man About A Horse
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 4,937
Likes: 700
From: Mariposa, Ca.
Not sure if you have one,but on the Fresh Air heater, under the hood,right near the engine block,there is a valve that resembles a radiator petcock.It's in the inlet heater hose that goes to the heater core.Not sure if it's also on the standard heater.If you have the same set-up,turn it full counter clockwise to allow full flow of coolant to the heater core.In the summer,I close it to keep unnecessary heat out of the cab.Also,check your coolant level.The heater duct outlets that direct warm air onto the windshield are a sort of cardboard/pressboard,and are often warped,or crumbling and don't make a good seal.The hoses from the heater to the outlets could be split or disconnected. Last of all,you could possibly have a plugged heater core if everything else checks out.Hope it's something simple.Steve.
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Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 264
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From: Rockwall TX
thanks. i cant remember if i have the valve i just got the truck and havent had much time to mess with it. i just wanted to make sure that these heaters just didnt take a long time to warm up befour i went and messed with it.