That kit is a waste of money!! The link I posted from Ebay does the same thing for alot less... All you need is a 35mm Freeze Plug and to double the gaskets for the other end, and have a high temp one in between them..

 

I agree with the freeze plug/aluminum doubled-up gasket block off version...and leave the EGR valve plugged in if you have issues with codes...to go a step further, install the block-off spool and either "turn off" the EGR function via an ECT tuner (just learned this, on here) or leave your EGR valve off to the side, secured with something and plugged in as some believe the EGR valve can be pushed open with boost, etc. I tend to think about this as well, so may do the block-off spool thingey from eBay...at least it'll make me feel better.

I am probably going to leave the EGR valve in and plugged in...and tune the operation of it OUT with an ECT tuner.

Some questions about the process...

Do I have to remove the turbo to get the intake off? I was looking at things today and it appears I won't have to remove the turbo?

Assuming I have to get the air cleaner out of there and some other items...anything else I should be particularly concerned with during the process? I read on another post that I do not want to unplug the module that's mounted to the valve cover or it'll "zap" the software?? ...is this true or is it easy to get the intake off without disturbing that module...leaving it plugged in?

Again, I'm going to save this job for the Spring as I believe I have injector issues causing my problem, but am going to post some odd findings in another post I'm subscribed to where I have been citing my issues and what I'm experiencing when I unplug the EGR valve, ETC.

Anyone know of a good used ECT tuner with some unlocked ports on it available? I'm considering buying one and some type of exhaust system this Spring, maybe sooner?

 

It's not a waste of money if your EGR is leaking coolant. Once your EGR starts leaking coolant the cheap freeze plug duct tape job won't solve your problem. However if your EGR is in good shape and not leaking you can bypass the exhaust flow by plugging it up. Ultimately it's going to be determined by why you need or want to replace your EGR cooler. Most of us won't waste anytime on bypassing the EGR unless we are having overheating issues or coolant loss, with one exception is to get lower EGTs. $275 is a lot cheaper than those $500+ kits that are identical in design.

 

The module that you're referring to is the FICM Fuel injection control module. You don't have to unplug it, however I do recommend that you unplug and take the FICM out. Unplugging the FICM will not erase memory or do any harm. This will give you more space to get to the turbo's bolts and allow you to give the wiring harness more slack to remove the intake manifold. The turbo does have to come off. Fan shroud bolts need to come off to make more room to remove intake manifold. Dealer service manual tells you to completely take the fan off which is unnecessary. I have the EGR delete kit and left the EGR valve and connector in place. It does not put out the MIL light. I tried disconnecting the EGR valve, that lit up the MIL light. So far everything has been great with the EGR delete.