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Took the carb off to rebuild it. On the pass side of the carb there is a small canister type thing with with the word "Lean" on it and arrows pointing in a clockwise direction. There is a metal tube leading from the canister to the manifold. What is that for? Because it broke off at the manifold. Please help! Thanks
i could be wrong and please correct me if I am, but I think you're talking about your adjuster for if the truck is running lean or rich and is relatively important
i could be wrong and please correct me if I am, but I think you're talking about your adjuster for if the truck is running lean or rich and is relatively important
There is little hash marks and a black plastic cover that you can turn 2 or 3 marks in either direction. What happens if it's not connected? Basically I'm asking if it will A) catch fire or B) run.
its the choke heat tube. If you broke it, dont worry. Just plug the vacuum port on the carb so you dont create a vacuum leak. You can convert it to an electric choke, or just turn that black cover to lean so the choke does not stay on forever. Yes it will run, no it wont catch fire.
its the choke heat tube. If you broke it, dont worry. Just plug the vacuum port on the carb so you dont create a vacuum leak. You can convert it to an electric choke, or just turn that black cover to lean so the choke does not stay on forever. Yes it will run, no it wont catch fire.
Thank you very much for the quick response! Much appreciated guys.
its the choke heat tube. If you broke it, dont worry. Just plug the vacuum port on the carb so you dont create a vacuum leak. You can convert it to an electric choke, or just turn that black cover to lean so the choke does not stay on forever. Yes it will run, no it wont catch fire.
Thank you very much for the quick response! Much appreciated guys.
Also, which screws do I adjust for the idle? Cold and warm? Where are they? I have a Haynes manual but it doesn't show a picture.
they are on the front of the carb, right below the float bowl. Start off at 1 1/2 turns. Hook up a vacuum gauge, aim for the highest vacuum readings. Quickly whiff the exhaust, tune till it dont stink rich. Be careful, you can die from carbon monoxide poisoning. There are other (proper) ways to adjust a carb, but this way works easy enough for me, and gets it close enough. Also, adjust your timing, and adjust the idle to keep it where it otta be.
they are on the front of the carb, right below the float bowl. Start off at 1 1/2 turns. Hook up a vacuum gauge, aim for the highest vacuum readings. Quickly whiff the exhaust, tune till it dont stink rich. Be careful, you can die from carbon monoxide poisoning. There are other (proper) ways to adjust a carb, but this way works easy enough for me, and gets it close enough. Also, adjust your timing, and adjust the idle to keep it where it otta be.
1 and a half turns from completely in or completely out? Don't have a vacuum gauge, so should I listen for best idle and smell the exhaust? Also, which one is for fast idle and which one is for warm idle?
The tube running to the choke is the hot-air stove. Without it, your choke cannot open. You need this hooked up for the stock choke to function correctly. Or, you need to close it up and install an all-electric choke like masterbeavis suggested.
masterbeavis's procedure for setting idle mixture is good; I use a vacuum gauge myself. Curb idle is on the driver side of the carburetor. Fast idle is a separate mechanism and is on the passenger side. Here is my writeup on setting fast idle, it will tell you everything you need to know. Ignore the first couple paragraphs about the float.
This is the only shot I have. The only spring on that side is the throttle return spring. You can somewhat see it in this picture. I'm assuming you're working with a stock 2-barrel carb?
Yes, but I also have a larger spring that came off of that side. Which is holding the throttle closed. Basically, when I open the throttle everything works fine, but it doesn't shut.
That would be the throttle return spring. It's responsible for bringing the throttle back to closed after you pull back on it. I looked through some photos of an engine pull I did and found one that might help some more. Here it is:
As you can see, the throttle return spring connects between a bracket mounted to the throttle body, and the throttle linkage itself. I can't say I've ever seen an additional spring used here. There may be a second spring mounted to the transmission kickdown linkage, but I don't recall seeing one before.
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