alright so today was the first day since my accident in february that I took my truck out for a drive. All ran pretty well, the engine lugged quite a lot but I noticed a popped distributor cable. Popped that back in and got the oil changed and it ran like a champ just need to change the fuel filter. The only thing was, the idle is really low and not normal so I knew at one time how to adjust the idle but I can not remember for the life of me of what exactly I am supposed to do.

My specs are
302 5.0
with the stock 2bbl carb

thanks

 

there should be a screw on the throttle linkage, with the engine running at operating temp, tighten the screw and it should idle higher

 

Does this carburetor have an idle stop solenoid?

 

Yeah but awhile ago, i more or less had to disconnect it because it wouldnt disengage ever (i think it broke nor do I really know how to adjust it id love to have it back), and I tweaked the idle on the throttle to be ok, if you could tell me how to "fix" or what not the idle stop solenoid (isnt it also called an auto choke, cause it keeps your engine at a higher rpm until it gets warm then it kicks off?)

thanks brent

 

No. The idle solenoid (also called a "throttle kicker" sometimes) is always energized when the ignition is in the "Run" position. When energized, you use this unit to set your curb idle. It releases when the ignition is shut off to close the throttle blades in the carb to prevent the engine dieseling. It should energize when the ignition is put in the "Run" position. The "auto choke" is a totally separate thing.

 

Everything AerostarDad said is 100% correct. brentlee - that's why I asked if you have the solenoid. The procedure for adjusting idle is different with and without the solenoid.

 

I did not know the difference between the auto choke and idle solenoid as you can see when it comes to this I am a complete newb. I do have the idle stop solenoid

http://www.jimsautoparts.com/solenoid.gif

that right there ? it is on my truck not that exact one but one similar (its probably stock lol)

 

hi folks, I am looking for a little more information on that solenoid. I have a 390 in my 79 and just put a new carburetor on it. I had success on adjusting the idle but think the solenoid would be a great addition. I'm not close to being a mechanic but not afraid to venture. Any information on where i could obtain information on this. and Brent, good luck on your venture.

 

That would be it. The original Ford solenoid does look slightly different.

Why do you want to install the solenoid? It's only needed if you have problems dieseling. When the engine is running, the solenoid holds the idle. When you shut off the motor, the solenoid retracts and lets the throttle plates shut.

On solenoid-equipped carburetors, the curb idle is adjusted by rotating a hex screw that moves the solenoid bracket forward and back. On non-solenoid-equipped (conventional) carburetors, the idle is set by a screw on the driver side of the carburetor.

 

I believe my truck is dieseling because when I turn it off and go away for awhile and I come back it is like the carb got "loaded" as a mechanic to me or is and when I try to start it, it just turns like it is getting no gas, then after a try it starts up...would this just have to do with my idle being shot? or would I need a new solenoid ? thanks

 

ok so i upped the idle and it idles a little higher now but it has a knock in it almost like it is skipping a plug but not that bad just like a plug might be bad? I checked all the plugs it's running just right not too lean not too rich. I am wondering if maybe a plug is bad? they're fairly new and the wires are fairly new so I am guessing that I might need to pop off the distributor cap and check to see that all is ok in there right?

 

Check the resistance of each ignition wire with an ohm meter. :)
Got a friend that's got an ohmmeter? ;)

Seems like I've had bad plugs but can't remember when. :/
Can sure as heck remember a %^&*load of bad wires tho. :)
And when the coil wire goes bad that's a real fun one. ;)

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I was hoping someone would explain how to adjust the idle using
a vacuum gauge. Like in detail and stuff? ;)

I'd like to hear different versions of the procedure, if there are
different versions of the procedure.

------------------------------

What about those solenoids being used to raise the idle speed a
little when the A/C is on?

Alvin in AZ

 

Thanks for the reply. its not dieseling so I won't mess with it. thanks.

 

i have to readjust the idle with the ac on just a tad, its idling near correct but i took my distributor cap off the prongs were scored, and the rotor was jagged and crap, so 22 bucks I got a new cap and rotor, going to replace it tomorrow

 

brentlee:

"Dieseling" means the motor tries to kick around after you cut the key. It means it doesn't shut off. It's an awful situation. It has nothing to do with how the truck is when you shut it off and come back later. If you shut it off and the motor cuts completely, it's not dieseling.

I don't know what you mean by "loaded." Whatever you're talking about, I assure you is not related to idle. If you're having trouble getting the truck to start after it's ran a while, this could be a flooding problem, stuck choke, or advanced timing. To tell you the truth, I think you should spend a little time reading about carburetors online or in a shop manual before you go throwing money at this, because I think you need to get a little more familiar with carbs, based on your questions. I'm only saying this in hopes to save you time and frustration in the end. I'd be happy to answer your questions though.

A knock at idle is unrelated to ignition. You should verify your oil pressure with a mechanical gauge if you have a knock at idle. Knocking at cruise speeds can be related to ignition, called "spark knock," which usually occurs due to a lean condition or advanced timing. This does not show up at idle. Knocking at idle is metal on metal friction.

Alvin:

I set my idle mixture with a vacuum gauge. Only way to go in my opinion. This $20 tool can tell you more about your engine than a lot of other much more expensive tools. The way I do it is first, with the truck off, turn the idle mixture screws all the way in, then back out 2 turns, to be sure they are even. Then I start the truck, keep it in park and idle the motor. I connect the gauge to manifold vacuum, and then tweak the screws evenly until I reach peak vacuum. For my truck it's 20 inches. Once the mixture is set, then I adjust the idle speed to the proper RPM. My inline 6 runs glass smooth this way. You can't even tell the truck is running at a stop light, because it's so smooth.