[QUOTE=fmc400;6678607]brentlee:

"Dieseling" means the motor tries to kick around after you cut the key. It means it doesn't shut off. It's an awful situation. It has nothing to do with how the truck is when you shut it off and come back later. If you shut it off and the motor cuts completely, it's not dieseling.

I don't know what you mean by "loaded." Whatever you're talking about, I assure you is not related to idle. If you're having trouble getting the truck to start after it's ran a while, this could be a flooding problem, stuck choke, or advanced timing. To tell you the truth, I think you should spend a little time reading about carburetors online or in a shop manual before you go throwing money at this, because I think you need to get a little more familiar with carbs, based on your questions. I'm only saying this in hopes to save you time and frustration in the end. I'd be happy to answer your questions though.

A knock at idle is unrelated to ignition. You should verify your oil pressure with a mechanical gauge if you have a knock at idle. Knocking at cruise speeds can be related to ignition, called "spark knock," which usually occurs due to a lean condition or advanced timing. This does not show up at idle. Knocking at idle is metal on metal friction.


I know enough to be "dangerous." the term loaded was given to me by an ex-ford mechanic at napa, he said it had a lot to do with how my idle was adjusted and how much gas was getting into the carb causing it to the next time i try to turn the truck on it acts like it isnt getting enough until it finally turns over, he said it was also called dieseling

so what I have learned do not trust him because I believe he set me back on trying to figure this out. And you've been loads of help, I have the idle almost right just need to adjust it more with the ac on, though I would like to ask you what tach kits are available for me and are they easy to do or easy instructions to follow in order to install one, because I believe that will help me a lot, as well as getting some vacuum gauge like you suggested to alvin. and learning how to use it properly for situations such as this.

 

As you suspected, this mechanic friend of yours is very misinformed. As I said, "dieseling" refers to an engine continuing to run after the ignition is shut off. The reason an engine diesels is because it runs without an ignition source, but instead from hot-spots in the combustion chamber, exactly how a diesel engine runs. In fact, this is why it is called dieseling.

As far as tachs go, nothing too complicated here. Go with whatever you want to spend the money on, basically. They are pretty simple, you wire them up for power and ground, and then a third wire goes to the negative side of your coil, to get the RPM signal. Fancier ones have more wiring for lighting, and shift lights if you want. When it comes to tachs, the wallet is the limit basically.

As far as a vacuum gauge goes, you can get a decent one from most parts stores for $20-25. This is by far the best diagnostic tool I've ever bought. When an engine is running properly, the needle on the dial is pegged at a certain value. However, if the needle does not stay steady, its movement can tell you what is wrong with the engine. Different problems lead to different needle movements. The level which the needle points to can also tell you the condition of your engine. A vacuum gauge combined with a timing light can keep your engine in prime condition.

 

very cool, I will be picking one up and learning to use it (probably asking you several questions)

thanks fmc400, you;ve been loads of help. My truck is definitely not dieseling, and even though the "ford mechanic of 20 years" sat with me and ran through my truck with me, he doesnt know what he is talking about. thanks again