Radiator overflow problems
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Radiator overflow problems
I have steam and liquid coming out of the overflow cap. Not alot but enough to have fumes inside the cab of my truck. My water temp is a constant 192-194 and both the cap and the overflow tank are new. This has been going on for quite some time, so I just had both replaced and it is still doing it. Any Ideas? 2005 F-350 6.0.
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 4,968
Likes: 3
From: So Cal
Are you sure it is coming out of the overflow?
Usually fumes in the cab are from a leaky hose or heater core inside the cabin.
If it is indeed from the overflow and cap, check to make sure the sealing surfaces are clean. Sometimes rust and dirt from the coolant can get in there and create a leak. Clean any surfaces and be sure you close the cap thoroughly. Some caps have visible springs, this must be clean. Some caps require you to push down and turn, otherwise they only seal half way(this is actually a pressure release for when you remove the cap). A lot of Stant caps do this, usually they will turn half a turn before they stop, but pushing down gets past the detent. The big plastic caps on overflow tanks usually just have a clicker that tells you when it is tight.
How do you know the water temp is 192 or so? Is it from a reliable thermometer? Did you open the cap to read the temp, thus releasing pressure?
When you CAREFULLY remove the cap, does it steam or hiss a bunch indicating you have built up pressure? If there is no pressure, you won't have much leakage or fumes. Pressure also indicates the water is hotter than what you show.
I guess what I am getting at is that you may still have a leaky cap or tank even though new. Is the cap the correct one for the tank?
Sorry I don't have more useful advice. At a real 192 temperature and new cap and tank, there should be no problem with pressure at all and no leaks.
Lastly, is the air bled out of your cooling system? Most cooling systems require you to bleed any air out, usually thru a bleeder screw often on the thermostat housing. Air in the system can make it act weird and ovcer heat.
Good Luck,
Jim Henderson
Usually fumes in the cab are from a leaky hose or heater core inside the cabin.
If it is indeed from the overflow and cap, check to make sure the sealing surfaces are clean. Sometimes rust and dirt from the coolant can get in there and create a leak. Clean any surfaces and be sure you close the cap thoroughly. Some caps have visible springs, this must be clean. Some caps require you to push down and turn, otherwise they only seal half way(this is actually a pressure release for when you remove the cap). A lot of Stant caps do this, usually they will turn half a turn before they stop, but pushing down gets past the detent. The big plastic caps on overflow tanks usually just have a clicker that tells you when it is tight.
How do you know the water temp is 192 or so? Is it from a reliable thermometer? Did you open the cap to read the temp, thus releasing pressure?
When you CAREFULLY remove the cap, does it steam or hiss a bunch indicating you have built up pressure? If there is no pressure, you won't have much leakage or fumes. Pressure also indicates the water is hotter than what you show.
I guess what I am getting at is that you may still have a leaky cap or tank even though new. Is the cap the correct one for the tank?
Sorry I don't have more useful advice. At a real 192 temperature and new cap and tank, there should be no problem with pressure at all and no leaks.
Lastly, is the air bled out of your cooling system? Most cooling systems require you to bleed any air out, usually thru a bleeder screw often on the thermostat housing. Air in the system can make it act weird and ovcer heat.
Good Luck,
Jim Henderson
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The cap is all the way on. There is liquid around the cap. When I CARFULLY removed the cap there was no presure (motor is off). Temp gauge I am using is off my Edge programer. The guage on my dash is right in the middle where it has always been. This is very frustrating. I can't figure it out.
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 65,938
Likes: 1,432
From: Millersville, MD
Take this to the diesel forum....Lots of guys are having that same problem with the 6.0 Are you running a tuner? If so, you MAY have streched your head bolts so you MAY be at the 1st stage of a big problem. Or, you may be having a problem with your EGR valve. To find out which, you may want to take it in the a dealer. Are you still under 100,000 miles? If you have a tuner, set back to original tune and remove the tuner then take it back....engine is warrantied for 100k miles.
And WELCOME to FTE!
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 264
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From: Texas
I did a search for you on "puke"
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...php?do=process
Has your truck been modified? If not you should have some warranty left on the motor.
Good luck and if it is the head gasket try to use ARP studs instead of replacing the head bolts.
ab
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...php?do=process
Has your truck been modified? If not you should have some warranty left on the motor.
Good luck and if it is the head gasket try to use ARP studs instead of replacing the head bolts.
ab
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