Hey guys, I went up in the snow with some friends last year in my 97 powerstroke and was climbing up a hill and tranny fluid came dripping out in a steady stream (I`m assuming from the vent because it was coming from the inspection plate). I`ve been doing some research about the torque converter not locking up at low speeds causing heat. I was wondering if this was a common problem for others and the best way to fix this problem. So here`s whats done to the truck and what i want out of it.

It has a k&n drop in filter, 3" turbo back, 4" lift with 35`s, and the guy i bought it from said he put some kind of a shift kit in it, wich is noticible due to harder then stock shifts especially when your on the throttle. I would like to be able to idle down a hill at low speeds and not have the converter disengage and to lug up hills at lower speeds without heating up the tranny. I tow an equipment trailer but not often. The majority of my driving is commuting on the highway. Any advice or pointers would be much appreciated, thanks.

 

Ditch the K&N and the stock filter box. The K&N doesn't fit the air box and lets
dirt get into the turbo...dusting the impeller. Search this forum for 6637.
It's a cheap and easy thing to do. Your turbo will thank you

What gear ratio are you running. Those 35's may be putting a strain on the trans if you're running 3:55's.
Were you using low range? It's a good idea if you are running this combo.

Add another trans cooler. Keep the cooler in the radiator for a total of 2 coolers.

If the ATF was coming out of the TC inspection cover you will likely need a front seal.
Seal color difference is Black vs Grey....can't remember which one is the replacement.
Some older seals are know to flip & leak at higher temps. Stops leaking after it cools down.
The vent is on the top of the trans.
Are you sure it was ATF. Leaks in the engine valley (oil & fuel) will run down the back
of the block and show up at the inspection cover.

 

Ya, the drop in filter came with the truck when i bought it. I`ve never been a big fan of dropping a high flow filter in a restrictive airbox, never sounded like a good investment to me so it is on its way out.

It`s an F-350, the ratio is 4.10 and I was in 4 low range in the mountains in the snow so something was casing some severe heat. I only was driving maybe 45 minutes, not even real aggressively(waiting for the other guys to get up the hill) and i could start smelling atf from inside the cab. The guy i bought my truck from also already put an "updated" tranny cooler on the front. I could see the anodized fittings through the grill, its a decent sized one too.

So you think its the front seal? I am in the process of getting some gauges to better monitor temps but the purchase of a house is slowing things down a bit. So has anyone had this problem before? I don`t have any problems driving normal even up hills or more agressive driving but as soon as you pull a trailer or put a heavy load on it atf starts dripping out. If it is the front seal would it be best just to put a better torque converter in it while i`m at it? Has anyone used the manual torque lockup through electronics or is it not worth it if you just put a good torque converter in? Thanks for the info cuda.

 

I had the same problem (overheating, not the spilling oil) a few weeks ago, I was out wheeling w/the local Jeep forum and it was about 2.5hrs of 4hi and 4low crawling stuff. It was the last trail of the day and when I went to leave (get back out on the main road) she wouldnt shift out of 2nd....SCARY!!!!
The trans was HOT!!! I actually burned my thumb when I touched it...So I 2X back to the park and used a hose to cool the trans cooler and the trans....after she cooled off she ran just fine. Needless to say, I am going to be investing in some gagues SOON so I can keep track of my trans temp.

Is there a way to lock the TC or maybe fool it into locking?


-Chris

 

From what i`ve learned you can raise the line pressure and cause the tc to engage sooner or hold on longer when decelerating (good for towing) the only problem is if done manually and you forget to release it it will kill the engine, sort of like forgetting to release the clutch in a mt, right guys am i on the right track here?

 

If the leak has stopped after cooling down it's likely the front seal. It's a common failure.
If you can live with it just leave it alone and wait for something bigger to fail...
hate to say it but your trans will not take much overheating...e4ods are the weak link in a great power train. Hope it holds up for you. Changing the fluid and filter can't hurt.

If you replace the TC and the trans grenades then you will be buying another one.

I haven't used a remote lock up switch but there are others here that can help you. From what I understand the trans gets hotter with the TC locked than unlocked. Not sure though.

 

Anybody have any advice for transmission upgrades to stop the torque converter from releasing so early?

 

Hey maverick, thats a nice bumper, my buddy i work with, his uncle used to own t3 until he past. now its his aunt. Same as the trailers take3.

 

I've got no advise for the lock up but if your good with your hands you can pull your tranny out with a buddy because that is one heavy BIATCH. Then get the upgraded converter seal and bushing, my new bushing has a grove cut out and has the upgraded seal, a tranny shop can take care of that. To keep the temps in check, do what is suggested, get a aux. cooler for the trans. For the lock up converter trick, I personaly would not do it to my truck, a torque converter performs exactaly what its called, it convertes engine speed into torque and for pulling up these hills, you want the torque and not the speed. Yes it generates heat, but that is where your cooler will kick in. The factory liquid tp air cooler is way to small IMO when the trucks start to get worked.

 

how about using a trans cooler with a fan? when we go off roading and crawl around in four wheel drive not much air goes over the trans cooler.

 

well I think that the trans gets hotter if the TC is unlocked, thats the reason IMO to use a switch to lock the TC when you use a DIY exhaust brake, but maybe Im wrong.

And I also suggest to change OIL and filter and maybe you should go to synthetic.

Thats is a very good idea for off road and crawling.

 

I always thought the TC got hotter while unlocked because the 2 flywheels/parts/etc are not spinning the same speed and the friction creates lots o' heat. I have to spring for a 6.blow trans cooler and a fan....I would hate to fry my trans/TC due to overheating

 

The fan on the cooler sounds like a good idea, worth a try. As for the fluid and filter change, when i bought the truck less then a year ago i had the trans serviced from the guy i bought it from at the ford dealership, fluid flush and filter change. What are the benifits of synthetic fluids in an at. I`ve never had good experience with synthetic fluids with older vehicles at least engine oils, because it is thinner and leaks through older gasket materials easier ie. valve cover gaskets.

Oh btw i just did the 6637 mod and got rid of the air bothanks CUDA). Pretty sweet. Sounds better and i can feel a difference even over the k&n drop in filter. A couple questions though. I was never able to find a walk-through install so what do you do with the air temp sensor that was in the airbox, and the factory rubber hose seems to be just a bit short, the filter gets bound between the battery and the master cylinder. Any suggestions?

And also the tc does generate more heat when it is slipping verses when it is locked, just as DAVID said earlier the tc converts engine speed into torque. The engine is spinning faster then the transmission(tc slipping causing heat) until eventually at higher speeds the transmisson catches up to the engine. This is why automatic transmissions are not as efficient as manual transmissions and don`t get as good a gas mileage. I`m sure most of you guys know that already but hopefully it helped a couple people.

 

Not sure how that grumpy face got in my last message????

 

1. Synthetic ATF can withstand more heat than dino oils. It has something to do with the additive package?
Hopefully, The AT gurus will chime in on this. I use synthetic oils in everthing....I've become a believer after many years of HiPerf engine use.

2. Just tie wrap the IAT sensor to the fender well or in the air flow to the 6637.
BTW: I kept the air deflector part of the OEM air box that sits over the battery
to help guide cooler air to the filter.

3. Most guys use a piece of 4" 45 degree exhaust pipe elbow trimmed to fit so the filter sits a little closer to the fender.
It nestles between the battery and fuse box. Like this, cudos to Tim for the pict I stole :
100_4068 pictures from friends & fun photos on webshots