here's an example of a guy who did some anaylsis and found his OCI of 30K was just fine and dandy, and was recommended to go for a higher OCI. He did use 3.5 quarts of makeup oil in his 7.5 quart sump over that OCI, but the s2000 engine is known to consume oil.



here's a 05 ranger 2.3L Report.

 

For those of us that are driving a highmilage truck that uses some oil due to leaks,ect. I recommend a plain jane grp3 5w30. I'm over 184.xxx and change oil [and filter] at 3000-4000mi. intervals. My engine has plenty of pep and is very quiet [no knocks]. This is the oil FoMoCo calls for in the older 4.0 engines. I use Wallmart Tech2000, and have for years. It is a certified oil and is fine for my requirements.
On another note, though. I DO NOT store my spare oil where it will be exposed to sub-freezing temperatures. Prolonged exposure to extream cold, like where I live can cause unwanted changes in the oil.

 

you probably mean plain jane GRP II basestocks as Grp III is a synthetic oil. SuperTech you mean? Pretty decent oil.

And yes if possible store oils out of sunlight (preferably in cabinet). With modern oils there should be no temperature concern for storage as it's designed to handle those temps in your engine. But common sense dictates don't leave it outside in a snow bank
Most oil has a typical shelf life of 5-7yrs.

 

Ok, not that I disagree with you, I just feel that since I have seen enough UOA from the guys on this forum that I do not need to post or have my own done, not that it would be a bad idea, I just haven't gotten around to that. I feel that enough independent tests have been done to show my product choice is suitable.

I prefer RP to Mobil because I severely dislike Exxon-Mobil and their politics. Given a choice, I would rather not buy their product, because every dollar spent with them tells them to keep doing what they are doing and I don't like it. They are one of the largest importers of oil, and I prefer domestic fuel and oil when possible. They have also disregarded the conditions of drilling in numerous areas, including some wells in Alaska, which were under the condition that it would be used in the United States (most of it is shipped to Japan).

The reason I do not use Amsoil is convenience. There are no Amsoil distributors located conveniently close to where I live or work that I know of, and RP is also available locally in my prefered weight. In both Mobil1 and Amsoil, they have to wait for the next shipment to get it in because they don't stock it.

As far as what's best, I don't think that can ever be resolved on a forum, and even with testing, as was brought out, some oils are better at some tasks than others.

And on my opinions, we are all entitled to them, I will try to do better at showing my sources. But my question is, how credible do you find it when we are the source? We have done a lot of our own testing in the catalyst and emissions field. If I state it here, does that make it an opinion? I'm not sure which opinions you are referring to, so I really can't delve any deeper into that without an example. Nor do I really think this is the place to do so. And lets not forget, we are all here to learn, myself included, so sometimes I make ignorant statements too, and I will try to stand corrected.

 

Yeah, and plus mobil 1 makes for a cool windsheild banner ha ha. Plus the oil filter want last that many miles any way, unless of course you use mobil 1 oil filter ha ha.

 

maybe I havent' been in the right section, but I've never seen anyone on here post a UOA in the two years I've been a member


my statement on opinions was more or less directed to some of the comments such as mobil cheapening their products, and so forth.

 

I believe that any 5W oil is Grp III, making it a semi synth, although I may be mistaken. I prefere to keep my unused oil in the house as it is easier to pour in the winter [I saw snow today]. Stored at 0* or lower for several months isn't something I care to do.

 

yeah completely agree about storage.

Viscosity Range is not an indicator of basestocks. While it may be generally accepted that any 0w is a GRP IV basestock or higher, any GRP II, III, IV, V, or VI can be 5/10/20wXX

Matt

 

ya well politics or no politics my 01 ranger edge 4.0 4x4 has had nothing but mobil 1 truck and suv in it since i have had it at 14000 miles now with 127,000 on the clock not a single problem except a air flow sensor problem some time back long live mobil 1 oil and there filters.....
oh yah i drop it at around 7500 miles


steve

 

Yeah, I use those Mobil1 filters too, no way will a cheap Fram or Bosch last long enough to justify a premium oil.

 

bear the only thing cheap is fram and even then a 3-5K oil change is just fine for them. Bosch, is made by the same company Mobil has their filters made by: Champion Labs. Bosch, Wix, Purolator, AC Delco, Mobil 1, and K&N are all great filters to name a few. Even Supertech filters are good filters, and I've had good luck using STP for 6K OCIs on the wife's cavalier (low insoluble numbers in analysis)

 

I use Motorcraft 5w30 semi synth oil and Motorcraft oil filters. I do 5000 mile OCI and have NO oil related problems with 120k on the Ranger.Sorry Buffman,I don't need a oil analysis to tell me that it works in my Ranger.This has worked in all my Vehs. for MANY,MANY years.All the Vehs had well over 150k on them and I never had any oil related problems on any of them.
Oil analysis are a good thing,but I don't have the extra $$ to wast if thing are doing good.

 

They made be made by the same company, but independent analysis shows they are not the same from a filtration standpoint. So they are actually made to differing specifications. The filters I was actually referring to is the Mobil1 extended life filters that are designed for prolonged intervals.

 

Well over 150K. Big deal Some don't seem to get the point. I never stated if you don't do a UOA you're going to have a pending engine oil related failure, but like I mentioned who's to say you can't go over a 5K OCI on that same oil. Why dump a perfectly good oil when it's good for another few thousand miles. That's the reason I paid to do them on my wife's car. I found Mobil Clean 5000 (conventional oil) was more than up to the challenge to go 6-6.5K oil changes per her driving habits. I change her oil 2-3 times a year and her oil changes if I catch AAP or AZ with a sale only costs me $9 sometimes for 5 quarts of MC5000 and a filter (4 quart sump)

I'd like to see this independent analysis as bosch are very well made filters and as with anyone who's done a UOA with them have shown to have way more than acceptable insoluble numbers. A correction should be made that most bosch's now are rebranded purolator made filters. The only bosch filters available for sale in the US now are the Bosch Premiums and like I said they are a good filter. Way better than Fram.


Fram

Fram Extra Guard (std)
Fram Tough Guard (different media?)
Fram X2 (Silicone ADBV, Fuzzy media)
Fram Extended Guard(same as the X2)
Mileguard (Jiffy)
Honda (although some are alleged to be made by Filtech)
Chrysler line up except for the Cummins
Penzoil
Deffense
Canadian Tire

Champion Labs

Bosch
Car and Driver
Deutsch
Mobil 1
STP
SuperTech
K&N
Valvoline filters
Mighty
Service Champ
Lee
AutoZone Value Craft
Some AC Delco
VW (some)
Warner
Luberfiner
Trust

Wix

Carquest blue
Carquest red
Napa Gold
Napa Silver (lower quality with nitrile ADBV)
Kralinator (in Canada)
ALLIANCE (Freightliner aftermarket)

Purolator (Arvin Meritor)

Purolator premium plus (nitrile adbv)
Purolator Pure One (silicone adbv, different media)
Havoline
Maxlife Valvoline (some)
Group7
Promotive
Powerflow
Quaker State (less media)
Advanced Auto Total Grip. (less media)
Pep Boys Pro Line
MotorCraft
Superflo

 

Ok, when I called Bosch cheap, I guess I just have bad taste in my mouth from other stuff they make that is total junk. (Starters, alternators, spark plugs and wires, and a few other things). However, my experience with their filter was not much better than with Fram. Im my Mazda B2600i, I used Fram filters and found it caused valve ticking. I cleaned the stuff out with a treatment of AutoRX and switched to WIX. Problem solved. Then for availability reasons, I switched to a Bosch on my next oil change and it immediatly started ticking again. I replaced it with a WIX (without doing an oil change) and the ticking stopped shortly afterward. Ihave stuck with WIX or Mobil1 since.

I do not have that test handy and would have to do some searching to find it. On the test I saw, most filters did well, my point is not what you are saying, I'm just pointing out that different filters in different product lines from the same manufacturer do perform differently in terms of their flow and filtering efficiency.