Guys,

I am looking to add a bolt on receiver hitch to my 95 short bed 2WD F150. Can any of you tell me what models will interchange? Thanks in advance.

Scott

 

The same receiver will fit all '87-'96 F150s, but it's only as good as the bolts that hold it on. May I ask how much you plan to tow? FWIW.. the stock step bumpers has a class 3 rating, 5000lb tow and 500lb tongue weight.

 

A couple of jetskis is what I plan on towing but you never know what else may arise without warning.

 

I've had a hard time finding a rec. hitch that fits my '95 w/ step bumper. I thought I found one off of a '94 F150 in a junk yard but after looking it wouldn't fit. None of the local auto parts stores have any, U-haul didn't have one so I'm just using the step bumper til I find a good deal on one. I will have to drill the frame to mount it up and I really ain't looking forward to that for sure. Any tips on that process?

 

Drilling the frame is not too difficult as long as you don't mind getting covered with rust and metal shavings.

Put the hitch into position and hold it in place with c-clamps. Make sure the c-clamps are good and tight. When the hitch is postioned exactly like you want it, drill through the holes in the hitch and through the frame.

Install the bolts then remove the c-clamps and the metal shavings and rust that you are now covered with.

Lou Braun

 

Thanks Lou! That's pretty much what I had figured to do. 1/2" hole if I'm correct, but not sure where and what type of bolts to use?

 

goto hitchworld.com or hiddenhitch.com to get the parts numbers, hidden, reese, drawtite and valley class 3/4 all fit with no bumper interference (unless you have than monstrosity aftermarket chrome bumper that goes way down)

the hitch will serve as a template. the holes will be 1/2 inch - I posted before to enlargen to 9/16s. Use grade 8 hardware only with backing plates.

resist the urge to bracket the rearmost crossmember rivets with holes 1/2 on each side - drill out the rivet and use this, it ties it all to the crossmember and by default ties it to the top of the frame as well.

ver-ver ver strong.

 

I did exactly what Lou mentioned when putting a hitch on my 73. It was a hitch off of a 94 Bronco. It sits a little low, but I couldn't go wrong for free. But anyway those are great instructions he posted if you need to drill. Wear safety glasses so you don't get rust in your eyes.

 

I installed receiver hitches on both of my 1984 Ford trucks and my 96 F150. the frame widths were the same from 1980 through 96... actually 97 on the HD models. Lou Braun did it the same as I did... I used a floor jack to get the hitch into position then secured it with c-clamps. I used 1/2" grade 8 bolts and reinforced the inner side of the frame with 1/4" plate. On my 84 F250 I ran a couple stitch welds for a little added safety, if you decide to do this make sure you place them in an area where you can get to them with a cut off wheel should you need to remove the hitch for some reason. Most aftermarket hitches are designed to work with a step bumper on these trucks. It's a pretty easy job, dirty but not at all difficult... make sure you have a stout enough drill and sharp bits to go through the frame rails. I like to start out drilling a pilot hole with a smaller bit before hogging it out to the actual size. I strongly recommend wearing some kind of hand and eye protection. Sometimes when drilling overhead the bit will snag and send your knuckles into a frame rail or something to leave you with beat up bloody hands and making up new cuss words

 

quaddriver- I know the big rivets you're talking about. You're saying drill those out and use those holes for the rear holes? If I'm not mistaken this rec. hitch has 3 holes on each side correct? Thanks for all the input from everyone.

The reason the junkyard hitch didn't work was because it didn't drop low enough to clear my rear bumper. It's not big or hideous... just the chrome rear bumper w/ steel plate where ball goes.

 

yessir. look at that crossmember - its supported 2 rivets per side on the top of the frame rail. the rearmost bolts take the most of the tongue weight and shock load. Just bolted to the ears of the frame - even on a non rusty frame they can deform the frame, crack it or pull out, by using the rivet hole you are

a) coming in a little more from the weak unsupported endpoint
b) transferring load to the cross member
c) transferring load to the top of the frame rail
d) stiffening side to side action - almost no chance of a side to side deformation

probably. Light class 3 I have seen cheap ones with 2. Class 4 uses 3 per side but spreads em out about 6-9 inches more. be sure to use backing plates on the forward holes not in the cross member.

On the projects page under the heading 'rusty frame fix' I have pics of a crossmember and frame rail appliances I fabricated on a truck (also have a pic of how the ford frame ends rust) to strengthen it for for a class 4. I towed very often every ounce of my 7200lb limit and even went over a few times.

In case you are wondering, I install a lot of tow packages - hitches to brake controllers to wiring. (I even publish the schematic for a cheap relay box if you dont have as original equipment) While Id love to only do engine rebuilds, a good friend owns a large camper/marine store and he farms installs to me so its actually my #2 money maker in terms of volume. and once you get a rep for doing the rear spring hangers, everyone in 3 counties shows up. (I live in an area of the country that gets a lot of wet stuff and they salt the roads like McD's fries)

 

You guys are the best. Thanks for all of the info!

Scott

 

Good advice quaddriver

 

One more question...does the hitch interfere with the spare tire carrier?

 

The hitch slightly interferes with the spare tire carrier depending on the size of your spare tire. You may have to trim a bit from end of the carrier but it will still work to hold the spare in place. Removing the spare will be more difficult.

Lou Braun