When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I've got to replace a leaky valve in my house - 3/4" brass gate valve in copper piping that leads to the sprinkler system. I'd like to put a ball valve in, since they seem to seal better. I was looking at valves at the hardware store, and saw some solderable ball valves. I'm wondering - won't the plastic seat seals melt or at least warp under the heat of soldering?
The gate valves are all-metal, so I can see why they can be soldered in. Am I getting teflon seats for under $10? Teflon should hold up to about 500 F. I was figuring I'd have to put a union in and use a threaded ball valve.
I wondered the same thing until I did a few and have never had one leak. I figure they make them for soldered joints then they must be able to withstand the temporary spike in temperature. I've changed probably 20 gate valves in my two houses to ball valves, all successfully.
If you sweat the joint correctly, the nylon parts inside will never melt. Clean the joint thoroughly, use flux, and apply the heat to the joint, not the valve and you will be fine. Just make sure the joint is squeaky clean.
spike...i've soldered in thousands of ball valves, and a handfull gave me issues.
almost 100% my fault, solder got down the valve.
just make sure the valve is open and like WG said..heat the joint and don't over do the solder
I bought a ball valve with built-in drain last night. The manufacturer recommends soldering with the valve open, so I'm going to take the handle off during installation. I'm also going to mount it sideways so the drain points down (its in a horizontal line).
Don't overdo the solder - I wish I could stop sometimes, but if a little is okay, then alot must be great. I was looking at the sharkbite fittings too - that looks too easy.
I was looking at the sharkbite fittings too - that looks too easy.
Those will have to be around for a very long time before I trust them. I spent many thousands of dollars repairing leaking plumbing (all at joints) and the resulting damage due to the gray plastic piping that was used in houses in the 70's. Copper piping with soldered joints would never have leaked.
they make compression type BV's...i've used many of them in places it wasn't safe to solder and have never had an issue.
when i solder the drain type BV's i take off the cap and rubber seal...and always have a wet rag so i can cool the valve regardless of the type
Those will have to be around for a very long time before I trust them. I spent many thousands of dollars repairing leaking plumbing (all at joints) and the resulting damage due to the gray plastic piping that was used in houses in the 70's. Copper piping with soldered joints would never have leaked.
Qwest pipe........there was a huge class action LS regarding that crap. Thousands of mobile homes were ruined because of that crap. I bet i've spent two yrs if you figure all the hrs ripping that stuff out and re-plumbing.
..and the unfortunate experience with that old crap makes many American plumbers skittish around PEX, Sharkbites, and the like. Of course, the Europeans have embraced these since they are quick, easy, and have, in general, been reliable.
I just replumbed my whole house (built in 1916!) with Pex, and love the stuff! I looked at sharkbite fittings, but decided against it because the fittings aren't reusable like pex.
Pex is also easy if you need to go back and fix something. I added an outdoor faucet yesterday. Copper plumbing you have to drain out all the water before you can solder. Pex a little water isn't going to do anything.
Where the copper supply line enters the house, I made a shut-off using a ball valve with compression fittings. I didn't want to call the city to shut the water because I didn't have a permit to do any of th work. So we moved all the crap out of the way and changed the valve with the water running.
What a disaster. I spent all day Saturday and half the day Sunday trying to get a 1" ball valve soldered properly. No water in the house, and the whole family grumpy at me. I think the brass valve just needed alot more heat, and I couldn't clean it up enough. If you don't get it right the first time, hope the stores are still open.
I finally gave up and bought a sharkbite fitting and threaded ball valve when the hardware store opened at 9 on Sunday (first customer). Walah! No sweat. I got some new flux and solder since I used up the stuff from my Benzomatic kit. It seemed to be a different grade, and for sure the flux was an improvement. I got the rest of the lines soldered okay, but that was the stuff out to the sprinkler system that is now drained anyway. I guess I'm as good at soldering as I am at caulking.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.