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Old Oct 18, 2008 | 09:45 PM
  #16  
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Well I went to check out the truck and was unpleasantly surprised Hmmm, where to start? Well, the power steering cylinder or whatever its called with the supply and return hoses was leaking like a siv. It was leaking so bad that I couldn't tell exactly where it was leaking. The master cylinder is bad and needs to be replaced. The gasket between the manifold and exhaust pipe is missing. The bed is rusting through in a few spots near the cab. Both doors need to be adjusted as neither one of them close all the way. The interior is pretty much shot. No door panels (which doesn't really bother me.). The seat is tore up and needs to be replaced. Wires hanging from the underside of the dash under the steering column. Gas gage doesn't work. Gas tank needs to be flushed and coated. The motor ran good, the transmission felt fine, the 4WD supposedly works, but I didn't check it. Tires were almost beand new. Before I left, the guy dropped his price from $1500 to $1200 without me saying a word about money. I walked away not even thinking about buying it. Then this morning I get an email saying that I could have it for $800 and he'd help me fix it. That got me really thinking. But the thing is I'm not looking for a project. I don't mind turning a few wrenches, but I'm really looking for something roadworthy to start with. What do you guys think?


Oh and the first 4 or 5 of the VIN are 2FS056 or something similar. I didn't write it down. I forgot until I was on my way home, but I did remember those first few.
 
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Old Oct 18, 2008 | 10:01 PM
  #17  
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Let's see, the guy went from $1500.00 down to $800.00 and offered to help you fix it. I would run from this just as fast as I could. I smell a rat. Sounds like he is desperate for your money and will tell you anything to get it. Just my .02's
 
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Old Oct 18, 2008 | 10:10 PM
  #18  
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And on the other hand, I am looking at an 89 F-250 4x4 460 motor for sale for $2000obo, got the guy down to $1500 cash. As far as I know, and I haven't seen the truck in person, it's a little beat up and needs the rear window replaced.
 
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Old Oct 18, 2008 | 10:33 PM
  #19  
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Well one thing for sure..................

I'd make sure of the guys ownership and ID for the truck, and make sure no liens
on the truck.

$800 seems fair to me and if you are looking for an on the road ready to go truck, buy this one and keep it for parts.

Hoods and vent windows, boxes and cabs go for good money these days.

I'm looking for a 78/79 Bronco for parts up here in Canada and you wouldn't believe the ***** I'm seeing I'm talking completely rusted out field trucks and the cheapest one I've seen is $1000 and I wouldn't have given the guy $200 dollars for it.

If it's a real HiBoy it's worth the $800 bucks IMHO.

Let us know how you make out but remember make sure ownership is his and not his friend or brother inlaw or some BS story and title is clear, he may just be motivated to sell or he may be trying to pull a fast one.

Cheers, Rick.
 
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Old Oct 19, 2008 | 12:48 AM
  #20  
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Well, I don't think that he is trying to screw me. He's retired Navy and knows that I'm in the Air Force. The story I got was that the truck won't fit in his garage in the city (the truck is pretty big lol), that's why it's at his buddy's house, but buddy's wife wants it gone ASAP. He also broke his neck pretty bad, I saw the scar. He said he can't really/doesn't want to wrench anymore. The guy seemed legit. My major concern with the truck is the idle issue. Here's exactly what happened when I drove the truck:

There was absolutely no fluid in the front reservoir of the master cylinder (and I don't think there was much, if any, in the rear) so the brakes would go to the floor and the truck would take quite some time to stop. Once we got back, we added fluid, which was leaking, and the brakes were fine. Master cylinder is what, $40? No big deal. But back to the idle issue. Started, idled great when it was cold. But the more I drove it/the warmer it got, when I would come to a stop the rpms would drop. It got progressively worse. It eventually stalled, but started right back up and idled fine. The motor seemed nice and strong, even going uphill. But obviously with the brake issue I didn't want to go too fast. Maybe 40mph. Now for the diagnosis: I didn't hear any air leaks, but could it be a vacuum leak? Could it be because of the EMPTY, leaky master cylinder? Could it be from the missing gasket between the manifold and rest of the exhaust? Could it be the idle needs adjusting? But the worst I've heard so far is that it might be alot of blow-by. I hope that's not the case.
 
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Old Oct 19, 2008 | 07:40 AM
  #21  
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Talking That's it Im coming down and buying that Truck.....

I have a spare engine and master cylinder, I'll be there in an hour.

Read on......
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If that last statement caused you to feel anxious then you need to go buy that Ford Truck and get the satisfaction of fixing it and driving it.

Besides in your mind you've already bought the truck and thought about what you are going to do with it so the only part left is cracking the wallet open and giving the nice man $800 bucks.


Cheers, Rick.
 
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Old Oct 19, 2008 | 07:03 PM
  #22  
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Any opinions on the idle issue?

I think I'm going to go ahead and buy the truck. A few small fixes and the truck is driveable. $800 for what seems to be a strong motor, tranny, and working 4WD. Of course I'm gonna need to fix things. I guess I'm just realizing that I won't be getting anything near mint for the money I'm looking to spend. The plan as of right now is to buy it, replace the master cylinder, bleed the brakes, replace the seat, get the power steering issue worked out. At that point, it's safe to drive and I can start doing little things one step at a time. One thing I absolutely want to do it to tape off the windows, etc. and spray paint it flat black. Thinking about taking the wheels off, sanding them down and painting them also. What you guys think? Thanks
 
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Old Oct 19, 2008 | 08:59 PM
  #23  
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i think that you should give it a good scuff with sand paper and paint it flat black, and then you can always do a paint job down the road, and just work on mechanicals first and change fluids and filters and put a new cap and rotor and wires and plugs and she should be tuned up then, and work at it one piece at a time! and good luck with it and 800 bucks seems fair!
 
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Old Oct 19, 2008 | 09:29 PM
  #24  
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Distributor, cap, plugs and wires are all new. I'll definitely be changing the fluids. Any ideas on the idle issue?
 
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Old Oct 19, 2008 | 09:31 PM
  #25  
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master cylinder was like 18 bone when I bought one for my buddys bronco last month, maybe different for f-250.
 
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Old Oct 19, 2008 | 11:13 PM
  #26  
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Got a reman master for 19.99 plus 12 core charge. So not too bad. Also picked up a Haynes for her.


Well, the deal is all but done. I go over tomorrow and hand him $800. We replace the master cylinder, which I bought today, and he helps me bleed the brakes (I've never done it before.). He is also supposed to help me figure out the power steering leak, bolt in the new seat, adjust the doors, and adjust the idle until I can get the stalling figured out. I'm not too terribly concerned about the power steering thing right now, but do want to get it fixed. So, all in all, I drive away with a truck that starts, runs, and stops for $800. I'll be doing things one small step at a time since money is tight (lower enlisted, married, baby in a month), but am looking forward to taking this on and seeing what I can do with it.
 
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Old Oct 19, 2008 | 11:14 PM
  #27  
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Oh, when I get it, I'll take pictures of little things that you guys may be able to help me figure out or point me in the direction of finding the right parts. Thanks!
 
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Old Oct 19, 2008 | 11:33 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by UTfball68
Sounds great...hope the project goes the way you plan. Sounds like you're on the right track. Should be an easy couple of hours getting the little stuff right. I'd also add throwing new brake pads on there too. A carb kit, a couple of hours tinkering and you should get that carb running pretty well too. As far as the power steering goes...if you're not too worried about "Armstrong" steering, you could plug off the fluid lines and drive it around as a manual steering rig until you come up with the money/decide what needs to be fixed to get the power assist working. I plugged off the lines on the Red truck in my sig 2 summers ago when I blew the high pressure line...drove it around that way until I could get new lines.

Thanks for the advice. One more thing I noticed about the steering was alot of play in the wheel. Any quick fixes?
 
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