When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
The catalytic on my 90 F250 fried and I live a state that does mechanical inspections. The shop that the truck was towed to torched a hole in the actual catalytic just so the truck would run (thus ruining any chance I had of "clearing it out").
I was checking the main auto parts stores in my area (Oreilly's, Advance, Napa, Auto Zone), and they have "universal fit" catalytic converters, that are about 200-300 bucks less than a "direct fit."
Has anyone had any experience with these.? I am really trying to cheaply fix my truck and I want to know if this is a viable option. Thanks.
Yeah, they will work...but you have to get creative when welding it on. It's a pain in the butt, and will not look pretty, but it can work. You basically have to attach a round pipe to a oval pipe.
Check your state DMV for cat regs. It is unlikely you are going to what CA is doing in the near future. No more used cats after Jan 1 '09, aftermarket cats have to be certified. My smog guy told me he had tested new aftermarket cats and had them perform worse than the failed, worn out stocker. Fraud in the aftermarket cat business (i.e. sellling cats that don't work) and the theft of cats off cars are driving this.
In addition, these things will be required to be warranted for 5/50. OEMs work over 100k, so why accept one you have to change every year?
As for that one listed in the previous post for $39.... I bet it does a fine job--good enough in some cases I suppose.
I live in L.A., and have never had a problem with using any non-OEM Catalytic Converter. Maybe it's because I don't drive near-enough miles or I get rid of them before too many years have passed, but all of my vehicles (which are always bought used) end up with non-OEM Cats.
As well, the preferred method of putting them on is to weld them in place. With the price of metals going through the roof, plenty of people on the Left Coast have found out how easy it is for thieves to remove their converters ("Hey honey, did you decide to make our truck sound like a NASCAR race truck?").
Personally, I'm not much into having the bottom-side of my truck shine for show. It's a truck, used as a truck. Just a few months ago my previous rig failed the CA Smog Test (all indications pointed to the Cat). Backed out of the Test Center, went 50' to the Muffler Shop, and had one installed.
It took less than 30 minutes, and less than $90. The immediate retest passed with flying colors. While Los Angeles may have the most repair shops for anything, I cannot imagine spending so much for a Catalytic Converter (over $150 - installed).
If you have got the coin, then have Ford install a new one. If not, then go for the Aftermarket piece. I've yet to hear from anyone around me that their replacement Catalytic Converter ever failed in a short period of time.
Now, some questions;
A) How is it possible for one to "clear out" a Cat? Did you mean that you intended to remove all materials in the Cat - effectively making the Cat just a Straight Pipe?
> The used Cat has value - at the Scrap Metal Yard, which can be used to buy another Cat.
B) Why would anyone prefer to replace their old Cat with a "used" Cat?
> That is akin to replacing your original tires with "used" tires. Sure, you can do it, but what will you really save?
C) Why would you want a "Large Capacity" Converter installed on your vehicle?
> The Cats are designed in a specific manner, for a specific purpose. I would be highly suspect of a larger Cat, since it would take longer to heat up, and thus be likely to give readings that the gasses (emissions) are not being properly accumulated in the Cat.
Use a exhaust pipe expander to straighten out the oval and to fit the pipes together. You may also need some extra exhaust pipe to maintain the length of your system. I used a GM non-air cat on my bronco without issue just needed to get the right size pipe in order to fit it on the exhaust, and it passed the EPA sniffer well below the allowed limits for a 91 bronco. A mig, or any wire fed welder, works great at welding the pipe together otherwise use exhaust clamps. It is truelly about getting the right size pipes to fit together or else it will look rather FUBARed. A torch or a long bimetal blade in a sawzall work great at cutting out the old cat just take your time.
C) Why would you want a "Large Capacity" Converter installed on your vehicle?
> The Cats are designed in a specific manner, for a specific purpose. I would be highly suspect of a larger Cat, since it would take longer to heat up, and thus be likely to give readings that the gasses (emissions) are not being properly accumulated in the Cat.
High capacity cats have more surface area and the holes are generally the same size. The purpose of a high capacity cat is to give you more air flow through your exhaust and still be able to pass the sniffer test. I have installed these in customers vehicles before and they have passed Utah's sniffer test.
On some vehicles with on board diagnostics you may run risk of your check engine light staying on if the aftermarket cat does not perform correctly. I believe its okay to use aftermarket just make sure its a company that is tried and tested. As in someone else tells you that the brand works fine or its a company that has been around for a while.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.